Utila -- options

[JCR]

My wife and I are planning a "return to diving trip." We are doing refresher courses before we go somewhere in August-September. We are considering mostly Caribbean destinations because they are relatively easy travel destinations for us. The kind of place we are looking for is:

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(1) dive focused 3+ divers per day, not interested in night life or other kinds of tourism;

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(2) a quiet place where we can sleep without noise from bars,etc....;

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(3) a clean air conditioned room;

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(4) smaller dive groups rather than a large boat full of divers; and

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(5) dive sites where we don't have to wait in line for other boats to leave.

After browsing the boards here, Utila has made it to our short list with some reservations. The all-inclusive (AI) places we are considering:

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Laguna Beach Resort: seems visitors report comfortable rooms, good dive operation, and focused on diving.

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Deep Blue: similar to LBR above and relatively close to same location.

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Utopia Village: slightly more upscale than LBR or DB, but visitors seem to report a more "laid back" diving operation.

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Utila Lodge: nice place, but in town and noise is more likely to be an issue.

Some visitors suggest that the AI operators may be less inclined to go to the desirable north side dive sites because of the longer boat ride / gas consumption issue. Others suggest that staying at a non all-inclusive hotel and using a dive operator such as Captain Morgann's or one of several others offers the option for more north side dives. The cost of a hotel plus paying for 3-4 dives a day may be close to the AI operations, but it may offer less crowded diving.

Our reservations about Utila is that it seems to have become more of a destination for diving and dive education, so it is likely to more crowded at dive sites. And, it also seems to be developing a reputation as a party island, meaning that noise may be an issue. Anyone have an assessment of those concerns?

As a point of comparison, our last trip to the Bay Islands (1996) was to Cayos Cochinos where we stayed for two weeks and saw only a couple of other divers. There was nothing to do on the island but dive and relax and it was the type of experience we enjoy. We would go there again, but for an August-September trip, but we both prefer some AC!

What do you think about the AI vs independent operations for Utila given the conditions we are looking for?

 

[diversteve]

I've been looking at going to Utila for a while. Utila Lodge always seemed like a bigger operation than I was interested in looking at their pictures.

This spring I won (ebay auction) a Whaleshark research trip to Deep Blue Utila. It was a quiet week there but I don't believe it ever gets noisy. There's only 10 rooms and 20 guests max afaik. There were only 4-5 of us all week so we may've had a more tailored experience but we dove all sides of the island - in addition to looking for Whalesharks daily. Captain Swin was instrumental in locating them twice during our stay, the rest of the time the weather was wrong. Even after finding them for as long as he has, it seemed like he still enjoyed the chase.

I can't say enough nice things about the way we were treated. The staff was very friendly and catered to our needs. It was almost embarrassing how nicely we were treated, it may've had something to do with the size of our group, but I doubt it. The owner, Steve is really focused on whaleshark research so that made for some interesting conversation at night. The common area is a large room with tables, a bar, pool table and internet access. They also have wi-fi - I was able to access it from our deck also but we were the closest room to the main building.

Rooms were clean, large, with closets and plenty of dressers etc. Smallish but adequate bathrooms. All have decks with the ocean waves breaking about 50' off your balcony. They provide bottled water and recommend it for everything, including brushing your teeth. They also wash all the food/utensils in it.

It's one of those places where the only reason you lock the door is to keep the A/C in. We hung our key outside all week. And I leave cash, computers, video gear etc. laying around. All the "girls" ever did was straighten my stuff up slightly in addition to cleaning+.

The grounds are really nice also, lots of trees, there's hummingbirds, bats, hermit crabs and I saw one tarantula at night. And there's a hike nearby, one of the others went birdwatching one day.

There's a nice strip of sandy beach along the resort but only one area large that you can really get wet due to the coral/rocks offshore. Although to be fair, there was a lot of beach to the left that I didn't even walk down. I think it leads all the way to Laguna Beach next door.

There's a swimout for the shoredive there, the site is Pretty Bush - you can find it in divebooks. To get out there you have to push your gear out in front of you and don it in deeper water. There's a break in the coral wall there that allows you to get out to two sites. I chose not to do it. but we later boat dove two nearby sites that are on the same reef - both were good dives. And several of the local boats from Utila Lodge and others dove there daily.

A couple things to know about both Deep Blue and Laguna Beach. They're on a narrow peninsula that's separated from the main part of Utila by a boat channel. It's actually the way both ops boats get to their docks on the backside of the properties. So both offer scheduled boat rides into Utila town weekly - Deep Blue also offered us the option to go at night with a later pickup if wanted - I think there was a small charge but we didn't do it. My buddy went into town once and said he could've skipped it. Utila for some odd reason is a huge backpacking start-off point, when we took the ferry over, it seemed to be locals, divers and backpackers almost exclusively.

The back of both properties is on a mangrove lagoon. Lots of sand flies in the late afternoon. And there's also sand fleas on the beach. I mention this as twice I forgot to re-Deet after diving and came home with about 100 bites. on my legs. Others seem immune, including most of the staff.

I got bit up one afternoon waiting on the dock for the boat to leave on a night dive - my fault. The reason I mention this is that it appears that most of the Laguna Beach cabins are on the same lagoon so might have similar problems. The rooms at Deep Blue are on the ocean side as is most of the Laguna Beach public areas so it's less of a problem on that side of the peninsula.

If I was going back to Utila, I'd stay at Deep Blue again. Two must do dives no matter who you dive with are Black Hills and the Pinnacles. Black Hills is a shallow seamount so you stay down a long time and see big Pelagics, we saw a school of Barracuda, several Oceanic Triggers and a 1/2 dozen or so huge Grouper on the same dive. Pinnacles is just a great dive around the Pinnacle - even shallow the coral is just piled on top of itself. Lots of fishlife also. Matt, their Instructor/DM knows where all the good stuff is.

I tried but couldn't change a tank all week either. He kept saying: "you're on vacation, let me handle this" We dove all the way around the island during the week. I would say we more to the south and east but that was where we found Whalesharks during our SI's also.

I don't think that there was any reluctance on their part to go to the North side, Utila Lodge would have the same restriction if there was as they're in town, just a 5min. boat ride away. We rode by Utopia once, I remember thinking it was quite a ride back to town from there.

Our boat was a big old boat with a solid ladder, I don't think it would've been overly crowded with 20 divers on it. Laguna Beach had a couple of bigger Newton's - maybe 36'er's. Seemed like we were faster than a lot of the other boats from town - which can be a big help during Whalesharking as it's first come first jump. You don't get a lot of time with them as they generally dive once they see snorkelers.

The way the dives worked for us it was 2 in the AM and 1PM except the two night dive days there was no afternoon dive. That may've partially been since Matt was the only working DM that week since there were four of us on the boat.

From Phoenix, we flew Houston to Roatan and took two ferries to get there. Trying to save money as it cost us just about 1/2 of what the 3-4 flights "direct" route would've cost. From your area, I think you'll be overnighting in Houston first. If you go this route, look for one of my other posts here, it details the timing needed to catch the ferries both ways. It's easily doable, you just have to move quickly to get off Roatan to the last ferry to La Ceiba, from there you catch another ferry to Utila. We arrived the same day around 5PM.

hth, PM if you have other questions.

 

[Scubagal]

Thanks for all the great info, diversteve. We're planning a trip to Utila for 2010. Right now we're leaning towards Laguna Beach Resort.

 

[diversteve]

Thanks for all the great info, diversteve. We're planning a trip to Utila for 2010. Right now we're leaning towards Laguna Beach Resort.

It looked pretty nice. And they've got a pool. I think all the cabins are single family - each one had a small dock extending out over the water.

Their beach looked more swimmable also as it kind of wraps around a little point of land in one area and it looked to be all sand. Not sure though as I only observed it riding by. Never saw anyone in the water to verify it.

We followed one of their boats around the west end one time so I know they dive at least that far. It's not a very big island, I'd guess you could go all the way around in a couple hours.

 

[scubadivemaldives]

I spent a while diving in Utila a few years ago. I dived with Deep Blue, before they had their resort open. They were a great dive school, and if their resort is as good as their school, i would highly recommend it.

 

[Cudabait]

I have been going to Utila for a least 16 years. I have taught at several dive ops there including Resorts. In fact, LaCuda and I spent over four months living and diving there last year. We know, personally, most of the Resort Operators there. There is no question, based on your desires, that Deep Blue Resort is by far the number one choice for you. Steve Fox and his mother Shirley are old friends of ours. I suggest you contact Steve direct. I,m sure he will respond to your thread. You can't go wrong with Deep Blue Resort.

 

[UTLgirl]

Sorry was off playing & just checked the board...

A slight correction, Utila Lodge/ BICD boats are white & blue. The yellow boats belong to a dive shop in town

 

[diversteve]

I knew that, I don't know why I said yellow.. we rode near you guys one day. Might've been whalesharking...

 

[mllong31]

My friends and stayed at Laguna Beach Resort last week. While the food and services were OK, money was taken from safes and rooms. Extra room keys are on the bar for easy access. The owner said he would investigate.

 

[SDSCUBA27]

The major resorts on Utila are all good. Each has it's own unique features. The owners are true dive professionals and provide excellent service to their guest. The ones in town are close to everything and allows you to visit and learn about the island and meet the wonderful people who reside here. The ones heading west and across the lagoon are somewhat remote and are excellent for those that want peace and quiet and a private place of their own.

There are many private homes for rent by the week, month or year. When staying at these locations you can dive with one of the many excellent dive shop and school operations.

Regardless where you stay or who you dive with I think you'll find that it was a good choice.