Use of non-O2 clean regulators for 50% deco mix

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I don’t know how you use all viton orings in a first stage if they don’t come that way in a service kit. Do you replace them with the hopefully same size Viton oring?
1. Yes
2. Change to Apeks reg because they use EPDM O-ring which is compatible to Nitrox.
 
2nd stages do not need to be O2 cleaned as has been said, but when I teach the HOG class we treat the 1sts and 2nds the same. Gloves, rinsing, washing, etc. It's not just for O2 use but the procedures result in general cleanliness and reduction in contamination that could affect sealing surfaces.
What HOG 1st stages do you have? I keep a few of them around for classroom regs. Usually, those that have been damaged by ham-handed people who did not know or disregarded the torque specs. I generally don't like students to tear down regs that are new. I've told them to wait for the class until their regs actually are in the time frame that service would be called for.
Even then, if their regs don't need a rebuild, we use the classroom regs and I'll have one or two of mine that do need a rebuild and do the adjustments on those. Saves them from having to pay for extra kits.

I presently have 3 D3 1st stages. I had called HOG Support about their D2 for my doubles and moving the D3's to Stage and Deco Bottles, he mentioned none of the HOG regs where O2 clean. Is this just another one of the myths? Is there any reason to get a D2 over a D3, since there is only a $50 difference?
 
I presently have 3 D3 1st stages. I had called HOG Support about their D2 for my doubles and moving the D3's to Stage and Deco Bottles, he mentioned none of the HOG regs where O2 clean. Is this just another one of the myths? Is there any reason to get a D2 over a D3, since there is only a $50 difference?

I don’t know any reg that isn’t oxygen clean from the factory. I’m a service tech for most major brands. I promise the build and rebuild kits and procedures are exactly the same in EVERY single case I’m familiar with. I used the cheapest reg available for oxygen regulators for over two decades.
 
one question i find myself asking more and more lately is "how much more effort is required to do it properly?"

most of the time, not much at all.

the piece of mind knowing i did everything as best as i can do it, is worth the few extra $$ and a couple hours of my time.
 
50%

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100%

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Pah!
 
50% is probably a no-go for some, a gray area for others, and a let me see how much I can flaunt the protocols for others.

Scubapro makes O2 kits for it's 1st stages and doesn't require them for 2nds

Apeks wants you to O2 clean their service kits along with the reg itself.

Atomic has the M1 which is good for different levels of O2 at different pressures just to confuse you even more.

Grab one of the cheap deco reg sets from DRIS, DGX or a different acronym and dedicate it to your deco bottle and use that.
 
Citing an article from 2001 about cleaning tanks isnt really a great testimony.

Tanks are rarely filthy enough to cause a fire but it has happened - people died
Valves have caused fires and houses, dive shops, and boat have sank - and people have died
1st stages have combusted and burned up gear, neighboring diver equipment, and burned boats to the waterline - and people have died.

There is a continual erosion of cleaning standards happening and in 99.99% of the time it'll be fine. Eventually it wont be again and property will be destroyed and people will die. Don't be that lazy diver who blew off basic cleaning protocols which can reduce the frequencies of these problems.
 
Let me be clear. I completely believe things should be oxygen clean. My argument is that dive shops and manufacturers aren’t using separate practices for their regs and tanks. There aren’t two different parts kits available for any valve or any regulator we deal with. And we are a dealer for almost all of them. Every single reg gets a standard parts kit and a standard overhaul procedure that uses oxygen clean protocols and parts. It’s that simple. When we order parts we don’t say, “I need 6 1st stage kits, 3 for oxygen and 3 for air”. Imagine the cost to manufacturers to have to stock double the parts. There’s only 1 kit. Same for tank valves.
 
Actually years back, (when I took the repair course and the Triton was new) Poseidon had two separate kits. One using the black Nitril orings for air and one using green Viton orings for Nitrox.
That was the time this was all very new, so I suspect things might have changed, but at least at some point they followed the two path way.
I think now they even have two separate regulators with the argument that you can't clean off the silicone if it ever had been on the metal...
 

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