Upgrade to miflex, hose removal tool, g250

[Candiru]

I just got a new set of miflex hose. I have two g250's on a mk10. I was wondering what tool to use to separate the lp hose from the 2nd stage regulator. Also if you could include a little how to knowledge I would appreciate it.

 

[Mpscubatoytech]

any par a pliers will work that have a opening about the size of the nut on the 2nd stage wrap a rag around the nut this works i do it all the time on my gear

 

[beanojones]

Scubapro Just-A-Wrench, Aluminum

 

[Tortuga68]

Do you need that tool to change the LP hose? Dunno I don't use SP regs but I thought the hose fittings would be standard 11/16" and 9/16" imperial? Guess not


The miflex hoses have 14mm (first stage) and 17mm (second stage) fittings - personally I don't like using pliers etc on my gear, so I would purchase a 14/17 open-ended combo wrench. Or you can use a good quality 8" shifter

As for How To, it's pretty simple - remove old hose, fit new hose, don't overtighten, check for leaks afterwards

 

[Candiru]

Thanks for the link, how tight do you generally retighten it and do I need to put some lube on either of the orings, 1st stage end or 2nd stage end?

 

[beanojones]

Do you need that tool to change the LP hose? Dunno I don't use SP regs but I thought the hose fittings would be standard 11/16" and 9/16" imperial?

ScubaPro came up with the splined hose design to save on chrome loss from handling with tools (That's what I heard at least). The fittings are the same inside, just the wrench you grabthem with is different.

http://reals.net/images/forsale/IMG_1223.JPG

If you look at that picture, you will see the splined hose on the Apeks second stage, and the splined Jam nut on the ScubaPro second stage.

If I was swapping out for non SP hose I'd just use ChannelLocks on the SP hoses. It's clear from buying used gear that that's what a lot of people do anyway. Personally I use most every hose I can for the rental, (and I already have a SP Tools anyway), so I use the splined wrench.

 

[Tortuga68]

Thanks for the pic and info

It really puts me off buying stuff when they use proprietary tools and the chrome 'excuse' is just that IMHO

I think you'd get away with using standard OE spanners anyway, unless they were seized; I've only ever needed to use one spanner on my secondaries

 

[beanojones]

Thanks for the link, how tight do you generally retighten it and do I need to put some lube on either of the orings, 1st stage end or 2nd stage end?

How tight? There is actually a torque spec for how tight you tighten it. It's brass so it's not much past snug or you will rip out threads on the first stage or the hose. Someone here gives the advice of two finger on the wrench, which is a pretty good ballpark figure. You definitely do not want to use a whole lot of power.

As far as lube goes, I'd put the first stage end in dry. The second stage end needs to be lubed on the center O-ring bit. If you look at the second stage end of the hose you should be able to see the Oring there that needs lube.

(Actually I am being disingenuous there. Personally I would lube the threads on the first stage end (but not the O ring on that end), and I would lube the threads on the other end as well. But that has to do with the fact that my gear would be in the insanely harsh tropical envirnment where everything rusts and corrodes like nowhere else.)

 

[Tortuga68]

Not disagreeing with BJ, just saying what I would do:

No lube, finger tighten plus 1/16 turn

 

[redacted]

I use craftsman soft jawed pliers but the wrap over the splined nut should work. I like to lube those threads to inhibit any corrosion that may tend to form. Although good long soaks after SW use may make it unnecessary.

When installing the Miflex hose, use the soft jawed pliers or wrap on the jam nut as you install the hose to prevent the jam nut from tightening more than it should. Just enough torque to prevent the connection from loosening is the key. I tend to go light (hand tight and a little more) and check the connections often.

I also tend to use a second pair of soft jawed pliers to hold the jam nut when removing the hose. If the connection is too tight or has any corrosion, it should distribute the force on the case better rather than letting it all go to where the inlet tube engages the case. If you feel it is taking more force than it should to disconnect the hose, soak the connection (2nd stage) in warm water and let get time and nature on your side. When I get a stubborn one, I'll go for days of soaking with some hot water and ice treatments to get any corrosion and deposits to break up and dissolve.