bonairefans
Contributor
Two Weeks in Komodo ~ Unique Splendor
Komodo National Park ~ May 14 - 28, 2018
Komodo Resort & Wunderpus Liveaboard
Northern/Central Sites ~ Our 4th trip to the region
Enroute to Komodo, there are moments when the question arises, “Is this destination worth spending 20 hours in a metal tube hurling through space at 550 mph?"
During the first dive, the question answers itself.
Whether one is above or below the water, the unique splendor of Komodo carries an intoxication guaranteed to keep a diver bug-eyed throughout the trip
Komodo's reef mantas are unusually interactive with divers. Divers who are accustomed to mantas being curious yet wary of humans might be surprised at just how close they swim.
Repeatedly, we had mantas head directly for us and park themselves as close as possible and, for lack of a scientific description, stare into the our faces.
Being brushed by the wingtip feels more a deliberate act than accidental
Manta rays have the highest brain to body ratio of all fish. So, with a larger brain comes intelligence and cognitive abilities. They are clearly curious about an alien species, but what exactly are their brains processing?
Park Fees
We paid a total of $450 in park fees. If there is any evidence the fees are going to support park conservation efforts, we never saw it. No rangers, no patrol boats, no inspection of fishing boats, no managing of over-crowded dive sites. Meanwhile, shark fins are on sale in the Labuan Bajo fish market. We heard reef bombs detonated while diving. The total human population currently living in the park is >3,000 people, while 17,000 people live in the area immediately surrounding the park. Assuming these people eat fish at least 2 times a day, the impact on the park's ecosystem must be enormous. Indonesia’s annual population growth is 1.49 percent.
The fishing villages are largely Muslim, so women have little or no access to family planning. And Flores is largely Catholic, so again family planning is not readily available. Too many humans on fragile tropical islands = reefs in crisis. Human populations drop when women attain a certain level of social and economic autonomy, but don't hold your breath waiting for that to happen in Indonesia anytime soon. Is there any hope for the coral triangle?
Travel Logistics
Flew Eva Air, San Francisco - Bali, $670, nearly the cost of flying SFO-Caribbean. Flew Garuda DPS-LBJ, checked-in 70 kilos, no charge. Returning on Wings, paid $80 excess baggage fee.
For our style of tropical island living and diving, Komodo Resort and Wunderpus Liveaboard come close to perfection. After spending week 1 at Komodo Resort, Wunderpus swings by Sebayur Island to pick-up passengers...so convenient.
If Komodo’s mantas marketed relaxation videos, they might look something like this:
Komodo National Park ~ May 14 - 28, 2018
Komodo Resort & Wunderpus Liveaboard
Northern/Central Sites ~ Our 4th trip to the region
Enroute to Komodo, there are moments when the question arises, “Is this destination worth spending 20 hours in a metal tube hurling through space at 550 mph?"
During the first dive, the question answers itself.
Whether one is above or below the water, the unique splendor of Komodo carries an intoxication guaranteed to keep a diver bug-eyed throughout the trip
Komodo's reef mantas are unusually interactive with divers. Divers who are accustomed to mantas being curious yet wary of humans might be surprised at just how close they swim.
Repeatedly, we had mantas head directly for us and park themselves as close as possible and, for lack of a scientific description, stare into the our faces.
Being brushed by the wingtip feels more a deliberate act than accidental
Manta rays have the highest brain to body ratio of all fish. So, with a larger brain comes intelligence and cognitive abilities. They are clearly curious about an alien species, but what exactly are their brains processing?
Park Fees
We paid a total of $450 in park fees. If there is any evidence the fees are going to support park conservation efforts, we never saw it. No rangers, no patrol boats, no inspection of fishing boats, no managing of over-crowded dive sites. Meanwhile, shark fins are on sale in the Labuan Bajo fish market. We heard reef bombs detonated while diving. The total human population currently living in the park is >3,000 people, while 17,000 people live in the area immediately surrounding the park. Assuming these people eat fish at least 2 times a day, the impact on the park's ecosystem must be enormous. Indonesia’s annual population growth is 1.49 percent.
The fishing villages are largely Muslim, so women have little or no access to family planning. And Flores is largely Catholic, so again family planning is not readily available. Too many humans on fragile tropical islands = reefs in crisis. Human populations drop when women attain a certain level of social and economic autonomy, but don't hold your breath waiting for that to happen in Indonesia anytime soon. Is there any hope for the coral triangle?
Travel Logistics
Flew Eva Air, San Francisco - Bali, $670, nearly the cost of flying SFO-Caribbean. Flew Garuda DPS-LBJ, checked-in 70 kilos, no charge. Returning on Wings, paid $80 excess baggage fee.
For our style of tropical island living and diving, Komodo Resort and Wunderpus Liveaboard come close to perfection. After spending week 1 at Komodo Resort, Wunderpus swings by Sebayur Island to pick-up passengers...so convenient.
If Komodo’s mantas marketed relaxation videos, they might look something like this:
