Tweaking a Hollis H160

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I have been talking to Hollis/Oceanic tech support about an unrelated problem, and I ended up mailing the whole thing in to them to deal with that problem. (Fairly expensive postage, BTW :D) As a part of our discussions, I mentioned this problem, and it sure seemed to be a surprise to the tech to whom I was speaking. I told them that it seemed to me that the whole problem could have been solved by making the body maybe an inch or so longer and moving the battery out that extra inch or two to balance it off. He really did seem interested. He said that if no one wanted to take the scooter into a cave because of that negative buoyancy, it sure would not do much to help their sales figures. He said he would pass my thoughts along to the engineering department.
 
Any updates??

No. I got the scooter back and it seems to work, but I haven't given it a lot of thought since then. It has been sitting in my garage mostly.
 
Nothing.

I sent it in because of a problem with its speed. They determined it was the speed board and replaced it. There is nothing they can do about the trim without changing the design.
 
If you can find some closed cell "backer rod" (used with caulking) say 1" in diameter and cut and gaffer tape it on the inside of those struts.
 
I tried 2 6" x 2" PVC capped off. Hated the look but it did work to add lift to the nose. That started me thinking about other options for buoyancy. I used a Neo sleeve to balance it out. I picked up a Crato's Mako neo sleeve, rolled the wider end of it in on itself to put more lift on the front, then used a 2" weight belt to hold it in place. Now I stop and the nose stays in place, while underway it is trim and hydrodynamic. I also use the 2" strap to hold my 2 Sola lights on as well.
 
Putting backer rod or foam inside the 'air cavity' within the body won't do anything. Any bouyancy addition would have to be added to the outside to work.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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