Trying to sort out strobes

[Hotpuppy]

I'm trying to sort out what strobe to use for a canon G9. I would appreciate suggestions and feedback.

There are a bewildering array of strobes out there...... but it seems like your pictures are only going to be as good as your strobes when you get to depths of 60 to 80 feet. I expect most subjects to be in the 4 to 12 foot range for the most part.

I have the canon case for my G9 which limits my ttl options from what I understand. That said, I want to make sure my strobe can stay with me if I opt to go to a dslr at some point.

the next factor in rating strobes seems to be a combination of guide number and angle. What angle do I really need? and what is the ideal amount of power for UW photography?

I want something that runs on AA's so I can use rechargeables or resort to buying AA's if I need them somewhere.

It seems like the interface is one of two choices:
- fiber optic slave mode
- opto electrical converter (ikelite controller or HW controller)

Of course there is always "true slave" but that is bound to cause problems underwater.

TTL in theory would be ideal, but is my G9 really going to read and calculate the light needs for underwater? It seems like water cuts your light effectiveness by 50%. If the camera can't figure it out that means moving to manual mode which isn't that big of a deal.

For now my goal is nice snapshots, but if I get hooked hard I will probably put a slr rig together for diving so if I have a choice I would rather get a strobe that plays nice with an slr.

Brand wise I've been looking at Sea and Sea and Ikelite. Inon seems to be well spoken of but I can't find their website and it looks like they screwed their US distributor a couple years ago.

In the Sea & Sea I'm having difficulty determing if a 25a or 27a would be enough vs a 90 or 120 series?

Used vs. New. Seeing as my case pretty much sentences me to slave mode..... would I be better off to get a older, used 120 and interface it to my camera as opposed to buying a new "digital" strobe? I mean, ttl is ttl interface right?

thanks,
Brian

 

[bvanant]

Fiber optic triggering of many strobes will get you TTL (or an excellent facsimile) using one of several strobes. Inon Z240 strobes are great for what you want as are the YS110a and many others that can be triggered with optical fiber. For a bit less money you can go to the Inon S2000 which is great for macro, not so good for WA shots. Both will allow you to upgrade to larger systems. Look at our website BlueViews | Home Page most of the pics there were taken with Inon z240 strobes optically triggered.
Bill

 

[Nemrod]

I am an Inon guy, I think one or two S2000 strobe would do you fine. Many modern dSLR and cases are designed for optical triggering so the Inon strobes would wortk just fine with them, in fact perfectly.

Optical cable triggering works GREAT!!!!!!!

Strobes underwater are very difficult to use much beyond 6 feet distance, just too much water between them and the subject--that is why I go on and on about wide angle lenses. You gotta get close, no, closer, nope, much closer, now get closer--OK--shoot!

Divide the surface guide number by three then use this equation:

GN = distance × f-number

or to make it simple:

UW GN = (distance × f-number)/3

Now, you see why you (have to) get close and use a camera/housing with a wide angle lens and dome? Even a powerful strobe can only reach a few feet. You can increase shooting distance by increasing the ISO of the camera, say from 100 to 400 or more. Each doubling of the ISO increases light sensitivity by a factor of two.

BTW, two strobes does not double your range, it simply doubles the area of coverage--at the same distance.

If you plan to shoot a strobe and actually overpower natural lighting at a distance of 12 feet to subject, underwater, even in clear water, you need some mega strobes.

N

 

[Nemrod]

Inon seems to be well spoken of but I can't find their website and it looks like they screwed their US distributor a couple years ago.

Inon did not screw anybody, they ended their relationship with a distributor in favor of another route to market. This upset certain people who then claimed that the products were no longer available, not true, Reef, Backscatter, Divervision and several other have their equipment and service available in the US. In terms of getting "screwed" it happens all the time, businesses are free to choose their partners and market approach as they see fit. I don't care as long as I can get parts and service and product. Inon Japan chose to deal direct to the end distribution rather than working through a middle man. That is how I see it. I am neutral either way. Don't care.

But, you will have to evaluate that for yourself, the S&S and YS products are fine and a good company with a long track record also.

I gave you the links didn't I? Here:

INON TOP

Strobe and lens catalog can be downloaded here in PDF:

INON Products Catalog Download

Inon is a Japanese company, if you really dig you start to see common parts on several similar brands, especially the lenses, there is probably some outsourcing going on. I have had no trouble purchasing Inon gear and the stuff is top quality and it works great.

Your G9 will work, in sTTL, simulated Inon TTL mode) in P, Av and Tv modes and do just fine. It will also work in the Inon External Auto mode, D2000 and Z240 only. Wired linkage is available on the Z240 only.

S2000 (GN20 100 degree coverage)----manual and sTTL modes only
D2000 (GN20 100 degree coverage)----manual, sTTL and External Auto
Z240 (GN24 100 degree coverage)--sames as D2000 but with optical and wired linkage and a little more power

N

 

[skynscuba]

So, assuming I had the D2000 with my S50 or with an S90, either in a Canon case --

When would I want to use "External Auto" mode, vs. sTTL or Manual? Stated another way, is lack of External Auto much of a reason not to go with the smaller and cheaper S2000?

 

[Nemrod]

So, assuming I had the D2000 with my S50 or with an S90, either in a Canon case --

When would I want to use "External Auto" mode, vs. sTTL or Manual? Stated another way, is lack of External Auto much of a reason not to go with the smaller and cheaper S2000?

A S90 or G10 or G11 et all and etc will shoot with the Inon D2000 depending upon how you configure the cameras and strobe in either sTTL, manual or External Auto.

The S2000 will shoot with them in manual or sTTL, it does not have the external auto setting. The external auto mode utilizes a sensor in the strobe to determine exposure.

All of this is really simple, either sTTL or External Auto function very well, the housing is not relevant as long as you can rig the optical cable.

On the micro S2000 vs the mini D2000 I would decide if I prefer the External Auto mode or the micro size vs mini size. For me, I really like the EA mode for general shooting but I never said I was expert----many people use the sTTL, I just don't very much but it does work and it works well. Yeah, it is something to think about.

With all the travel restrictions, it might be getting difficult to carry camera gear, imagine two little bitty S2000 strobes, might be worth it and they are so small in the water, tiny.

OK, here is the big advantage I see in EA mode, I can set the camera flash under menu to manual and then under function set set the camera strobe power to low. This allows the camera to trigger the Inon strobe but does not suck the camera battery down.

But, let me tell you, sTTL uses a trick in the preflash triggering to fool the camera into a reduced flash output so while not as effective at reducing battery drain (as EA mode with camera flash set to low), it does still reduce battery drain considerably over the camera naked. Yes, it does, just exactly like Inon says in their literature and manuals.

As to who carries what and who can service what, you best call them and ask. I am not worried about it much. If somebody is really worried about after purchase service then I might spell that-I-K-E-L-I-T-E.

N