Trip Report part 3 - Donsol, Boracay & Summary

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Kevster

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Trip Report Part 3- Donsol, Boracay & Summary Feb 2010

See links for Part 1 & 2.
Trip Report Part 1 - PG, Anilao, Coron - ScubaBoard
Trip Report Part 2- Cabilao, Alona Beach, Malapascua

After 6 great days in Malapascua I travelled back to Cebu. Another overnight in the Kiwi lodge before I flew to Legaspi with Cebu Pacific (2205 Php one way, with extra 5 kgs allowance).

Donsol
I spent 1 day/night in Legaspi in the Dreams hotel (rooms from 300-1000 Php). Cheap accom in a good location next to a large shopping mall. Early in the morning I caught a jeepney to Cagsawa to visit the ruins of a church that was destroyed in a previous eruption. The volcano is spectacular. It would have been amazing to see the volcano with the lava flows last December.

1. Mt Mayon

I caught a local mini van from Legaspi to travel to Donsol, approx 1 hr travel time.
I spent 3 nights at the Vitton resort (2000 Php/night) in Donsol. This resort is probably the best choice for a visit to Donsol as it is right next to the Whale shark visitor centre. It also has presidential approval. Gloria popped in for lunch one day during my stay (Gloria must be an experienced diver, upon arrival at Donsol she completely bypassed the busy WS visitor centre and headed straight to the bar in the Vitton resort. Class.)

All visitors wanting to do a whale shark interaction trip must register at the WS visitor centre. They manage all the boats. There are 30 small out-rigger boats that carry a maximum of 6 guests for the WS interaction. It you have 6 people the fee per person is approx 600 Php plus a 300 Php registration fee that is good for 5 days. Each morning at 07.30 the centre is busy with people arranging trips, organising groups. There is no problem finding other people to share a boat. While I was there I would estimate only 10-15 boats went out, it was not so busy. The whale shark interaction lasts for a maximum 3 hours. Each boat has a captain, a spotter and a guide who enters the water with you. Due to the number of boats and the abundance of WS there was no waiting or sharing the interaction with other boats (This may not be the case during the peak season in March). The interaction all took place quite close to the beach. As of Feb 2010 the WS centre has identified 10 individual WS this season. However I would estimate there are a lot more than 10 WS around. During 1 drop after swimming with 1 WS, while waiting for the boat to pick us up another WS showed up so we had 2 interactions on 1 drop.

Day 1 – Topside conditions were perfect. Sunny blue skies, no wind, calm surface. Took less than 10 mins to find our first WS. We had approx 15 WS interactions. Only on 2 occasions did I not see the WS. Viss was 5-10m
Day 2 – Topside conditions not so great. Cloudy, a little wind, surface not so flat. It took around 45 mins to get our first interaction. Approx 10 WS interactions. Viss approx 5m.

Generally the interactions are short, 30-60 seconds. Sometimes you would get a longer interaction of a couple of mins, occasionally more if you are very lucky. I spoke with one group that had an interaction lasting 20 mins. Sometimes the shark would be 3-4 m deep and it would be difficult to see. Other times it was just under the surface. It was common to see the WS fins breaking the surface, while you are on the boat.

As I had seen several WS during previous dive trips I was a little disappointed in Donsol. Viss is not good and generally you cannot get a good view of the whole fish. It is also quite difficult snorkelling on the surface, trying to follow the guide while also looking for the shark in low viss. It is difficult seeing the head/mouth. By the time you spot the WS and swim in position you are normally near the dorsal fin, it is difficult getting a front end view (unless you are a very fast swimmer or get very lucky).

However it is amazing that there are so many WS here. If you have never seen a whale shark, Donsol will deliver the goods. Best time to visit is Feb-Apr. (Tip-Donsol is a cash only location. No credit cards or ATMs.)

A few years ago I did a similar Whale shark trip in Ningaloo, Western Australia. A day trip to snorkel with the WS cost approx $275 (In Oz the viss is good, 20+m). A day trip in Donsol costs approx $10.

2. Whale Shark

After a few days rest in Cebu to recover from a cold, I flew to Boracay with Air Philippines (6200 Php). I left my dive bag in the storage room at the Kiwi lodge in Cebu. The flights to Boracay have reduced baggage allowance (10 kgs check-in, 5 kgs carry on). I stayed 4 nights in Ocean breeze inn (1700 Php/night). The hotel was ok, value for money in Boracay, near boat station 3.
The beach is really nice but there was a lot of green algae near the shoreline.
Boracay is a good place to chill for a few days & was a great way to end my trip in the Philippines.

3. Boracay Beach

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Philippine Summary
Diving the Philippines is fantastic value for money. There are some outstanding locations providing some of the finest diving in S.E Asia. There is a great variety of reef fish, fantastic macro, wrecks and a few large fish. There are great places to chill topside including fantastic beaches. Booze is also cheap (the key to any great holiday!!). Getting around is no problem, public transport is very cheap. I was really impressed with Cebu Pacific, cheap, easy to book/change flights & no delays. The Philippines is the perfect destination for an extended dive holiday.
I would highly recommend a visit to Anilao & Malapascua.
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Best Macro dive- Any dive in Anilao, but I will pick Apols rock for my shaded batfish
Fishiest dive – Twin Rocks (Anilao)
Best underwater landscape – View point (Cabilao), great soft coral, sea grass, sandy slope, nice viss.
Best big fish dive – Monad shoal (Malapascua)
Best topside – Malapascua. Undeveloped/friendly bit of paradise.
Best resort – Polaris (Cabilao)

PG - 6/10 - Place to chill & do some decent diving.
Anilao - 9/10 - Really fantastic macro. Best in the Philippines IMHO.
Coron -7.5/10 – Nice penetration of WWII wrecks. Shame about viss & salvaging.
Cabilao - 8/10 –Perfect combination of great wide / macro diving and a great resort.
Alona Beach -7/10 – Nice location. Some nice diving.
Malapascua - 9/10 – Fantastic location. Great diving.
Donsol - 6/10 - No diving, but a unique wildlife experience.


When to go – Generally, Mar to Jun for the best diving conditions.
Avoid Chinese New Year.
What to bring – A pointer for macro dives, a long stay visa (you will want to stay more than 21 days). Cash (some places do not accept credit cards or have a 6% surcharge).
It’s true what they say. Diving in the Philippines is addictive.
I’ll be back.
 
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