Trip Report ~ Komodo Resort & Wunderpus Liveaboard

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bonairefans

Contributor
Messages
79
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Location
California
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Komodo ~ May 18 - June 02, 2017

We recently completed 34 dives in the northern and central sites during a 2-week stay in Komodo, spending a week each at the Komodo Resort and Wunderpus Live aboard. This was our 4th trip to Indonesian waters: Komodo in 2014, Raja Ampat 2015, The Crossing (Sorong-Maumere) 2016.

Under sunny skies, we were fortunate to have good viz with water temps ranging from a high of 81 degrees in the north to 75 degrees as we neared Rinca.

In terms of the sheer volume of reef life, the week aboard Wunderpus gave us the richest 7 days of our diving careers, against a backdrop of stunningly lush coral gardens.

It took 45-minutes to reach Komodo Resort by speedboat. We requested room 8-N, the most remote, and enjoyed the spaciousness of the accommodations. We hiked to the hilltop every morning to enjoy the killer sunrise over Flores Island. The cuisine is Italian and "molto delizioso". You can order as much as you want from the menu...but try to restrain yourself, unless you want to return home packing 3 extra kilos.

The dive operation is run by an enthusiastic and competent team. We were looking for a land-based resort that combined comfort with world-class diving, and we found it at Komodo Resort. The gracious owner is Antonello, and he's the jolly Italian grandfather we all wish we had.

When it was time to board the Wunderpus, the boat conveniently picked us up on the dock at Komodo Resort. The diving was extraordinary from Day1. We teased the dive staff: "This couldn't possibly get any better" yet against all odds, it did. It was the week after the new moon, when currents can impact diving. But Chris, owner/cruise director, has a vast data base for each dive site and manipulates every variable that can be humanly manipulated to maximize the dive experience. When Chris says, "Let's wait 5 minutes, the current will weaken", that's exactly what happens. Chris, who hails from landlocked Oklahoma, is non-stop upbeat, engaging, and energized, and his team follows his lead.

Wunderpus holds 8 passengers, but the trip started with just the two of us and another couple from Adelaide We bonded immediately. Combine a beautiful boat with fun people, eye-popping diving, and our own private dive master...could it get any better?

Yes, when the next dives are at Manta Point. We dived Makassar and Mauan on our first trip in 2014, and had encounters I believe could be called 'typical": mantas circled us and made what appeared to be eye contact. We were enchanted out of our skins and shorties. But on 31May, those winged behemoths elevated the experience up quite a few notches. Lacking the video as evidence, I would scarcely believe it myself.

After an hour of unprecedented contact with mantas at Makassar, DM Dolan said, "We can recover from all this excitement at Mauna, where we can see other things". It didn't quite work out like that, as we could see the water was thick with mantas even before we did a backward roll. The mantas of Mauan tried to upstage the Makassar bunch with a fine-tuned ballet routine that would have left us breathless if we were not already on oxygen.

Topside activities included a hike up Gili Lawa Darat for the panorama over the Golden Passage. I've been wanting to savor this view for years, and to finally stand atop Gili gave me the chills. A few days later when we were again in the area, Chris said, "Who wants to climb Gili again?" and off we went.

Here's the video link:



The panorama over the Golden Passage...THE View


ry%3D400


Travel Logistics

We paid $750 p/p Cathay Pacific RT San Francisco-HKG-DPS.

Purchased domestic flights via nusatrip.com, which often has better prices than the airlines' websites.

Flew Garuda DPS-LBJ, prop, checking-in 70 k total in 3 suitcases. Garuda still allows 21 k sports equipment, so we paid nothing extra.

Nam Air allows 10 k sports equipment; we paid $14 for the extra 10 k.

For a layover at DPS, look no further than Vira Bali Hotel. For $74, we received RT airport shuttle, breakfast, welcome massage (!), and a very comfortable room. The hotel is right across the street from the Lippo Mall, for any last-minute shopping needs.

For an overnight in Labuanbajo, we paid IDR1,000,000 for a large room at the Bayview Gardens, with a huge porch ideal for drying dive gear. Breakfast is delivered to the room. The Bayview is ideal for a transit night or an extended stay.









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Sounds like a great trip. What was your longest continuous flight? How long did it take to fly there? The sheer arduousness of the travel to & from are big barriers to some.

I saw a pic of the 2 of you behind a large Komodo dragon; those can be dangerous, leading me to wonder it was in the wild, a captive, etc... Speaking of which, did you guys have encounters with random wild Komodo dragons? Just wondering what that was like.

Richard.
 
Hi Richard,

Thanks for your interest.

Yes, the 18-hours in a jet San Francisco – Bali can be grueling. I’m 2 meters tall, and my body is incompatible with the standard 3-seat configuration in economy class. I have to sit in the 2-seat configuration so I can turn my body sideways.

Regarding the photo with the dragon (which is actually just an oversized monitor lizard), I found it cringe-worthy. I try to avoid situations where human interactions disrupt the natural behavior of animals, and the behavior of this lizard is definitely modified by human intrusion.

In the afternoon, the dragons tend to be more sluggish. It’s better to visit in the morning when they’re active. To see them move with that distinctive swagger is quite a sight. The dragons on Komodo are larger than the ones on Rinca (sub-species?). For photographic reasons, I prefer shooting the dragons on Komodo for their sheer size.

From my own personal experience, you probably won’t see any dragons on any of the hikes on either Komodo or Rinca because they’re all hanging out at the Rangers’ Station due to smells from the kitchen.

The photo was composed so it appears the humans are much closer to the animal than they actually are.

The Komodo Dragon generates a tremendous amount of $ for the Indonesian government. Jakarta wants to preserve the resource, but at the same time, there’s a certain amount of exploitation taking place.
 
Thanks; good to know. I ask because while t.v. program footage makes them look slow, and I don't think they're nabbing people right and left, Komodo dragons occasionally kill somebody.

I read one account where someone squatted down to take a picture, and I'm guessing thus reduced the size of his silhouette, at which point his subject started to charge and a staff person intervened with a stick. Another account somewhere in Undercurrent's site spoke of a couple who got too close and were chased into the water, which the dragon appeared willing to enter, and other people intervened.

I don't want people to come away paranoid about them, but as we know the modern 'selfie movement' has resulted in some casualties, and these guys can take you out. The bite is apt to inflict a potentially fatal infection; it doesn't have to bite through a major artery and make you bleed out.

These hikes you mention on Komodo (or Rinca, I presume?); are they always with a staff guide, or do they let you wander the place on your own?

Richard
 
Thanks; good to know. I ask because while t.v. program footage makes them look slow, and I don't think they're nabbing people right and left, Komodo dragons occasionally kill somebody.

I read one account where someone squatted down to take a picture, and I'm guessing thus reduced the size of his silhouette, at which point his subject started to charge and a staff person intervened with a stick. Another account somewhere in Undercurrent's site spoke of a couple who got too close and were chased into the water, which the dragon appeared willing to enter, and other people intervened.

I don't want people to come away paranoid about them, but as we know the modern 'selfie movement' has resulted in some casualties, and these guys can take you out. The bite is apt to inflict a potentially fatal infection; it doesn't have to bite through a major artery and make you bleed out.

These hikes you mention on Komodo (or Rinca, I presume?); are they always with a staff guide, or do they let you wander the place on your own?

Richard

On 03 May, a man from Singapore was attacked by a dragon when he entered the park alone. Apparently he didn't want a guide. There are photos online of his leg injury. Our dive master said his leg was amputated and he later died, but I can't find a confirmation of this online.

Regarding hiking, guides are required. Komodo offers 3 trails of varying lengths.

When we were there in 2014, Sangeang Volcano was erupting, and Komodo was under a layer of ash. The island looked very Jurassic Park-y. Below is the video of our visit, and you can see how active the dragons are...HUGE difference in behavior between the morning and afternoon, when they are prone to nap. Many dive boats visit in the afternoon, due to conflicts with diving schedules.
If the video failed to embed, here's the link:


 
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Very nice video. I'd love to be blessed to see that place in person someday, and dive those reefs.

Richard.
 

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