Trip Report from Bonaire--back 10/22

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oceancat

Contributor
Messages
210
Reaction score
2
Location
Massachusetts
# of dives
500 - 999
Hi. We just got back from Bonaire last night and while I have the chance, I wanted to post our trip.

Travel: Flew AA from Boston to San Juan to Bonaire and back. LONG layovers in San Juan. We got a taxi ($25) to take us to El Morro Fort (it's a US Natl. Park) and walked to Old San Juan for lunch. Very pretty and a nice way to eat up 5 hrs. We stayed at Divi Flamingo and that was nice. Pools are nice, grounds pretty, rooms ok, food ok, but nicely located --5 min walk to town. We enjoyed Calabas, the house reef and the crazy tarpon feeding at night.

Diving: We were there Oct 15-22 and of course, as our luck has it with dive trips, had very weird weather. Even the locals said it was weird. The east side of the island ("wild side") was flat calm. We did 2 days of diving there--one out of a cove by indian inscriptions and the other by Cai. Saw tarpon schooling, sharks (2), turtle, southern stingray (2), interesting coral out of the indian inscriptions site, however, getting in and out can be a challenge with the wave action--not a dive for the less experienced. We did 2 drift dives with 'Larry's Wild Side', which was calmer than on the other side! But, I liked Larry and would go out again if conditions were "wild".

We did boat dives in the am with Divi and had a really nice day at Klein Bonaire--excellent coral, but they spent most of the time going up and down to the same sites we were shore diving in the afternoon, which was disappointing. I would have preferred more Klein. Because the waves on the west side (normally leeward) were kicked up for 4 days, it really dropped the viz. Our first 2 days, we had viz close to 80', the rest of the time, it varied between 30 (I kid you not--no better than New England on a good day) and 50' depending on the site. It also caused a lot of trash to be floating with you on the dives in the shallows. Although most rave about the northern shore dive sites, (Karpata, Oil Slick, 1000 Steps), I personally greatly preferred the southern sites with the double reef system. Hilma Hooker was awesome, as was Angel City. I was impressed with the variety and quantity of eel species and the large schools of critters. We also saw turtles almost every day, which was awesome. I enjoyed dawn diving--very neat to see the sun come up under water.

Food: Everyone raves about Cactus Blue and Cassablanca. They were ok. Cactus Blue had GREAT drinks though. We also ate at Wil's Tropical Grill and Donna's and liked those a bit more. The place I will rave about is La Guernica--mostly seafood, kind of spanish. WOW. We ate there 2x. We tried to eat at Bambu and could never get in (didn't make reservations--we aren't that organized), but they would send us over there and it was really tasty. Just FYI--Lost Penguin was sold and changing owners Oct 29 for those of you who go to Bonaire a lot.

Overall, in spite of the extremely weird weather, it was a good trip and got in lots of diving

:D
 
the inscriptions site sounds like Boca Spelunk. Were the inscriptions in a cave?
 
We were there 10/9 - 17. Were told the winds were 24 knots the week prior. We intentionally booked for this time because of the wind reversal. We didn't realize how calm the east side would be. We did two boat dives over there, and they were good (lots of turtles). But we agree that it's probably better when it's not so calm.

The vis seemed to worsen as the days went by. South and east were the worst at about 50'. The Hilma was a little murky, too. But still a great dive! Any WAY better than our vis here off Gloucester.

I've only been back a week, and want to plan the next trip....
 
The dive site on the east side was literally near a site signed-marked "indian inscriptions" from the main road heading toward rincon. The diving there was neat--the coral formations were quite different from the other side. The cove was pretty.

I admit, yes the viz was better than Folly Cove, especially since the last time I dove there a month ago the viz was 10' (although I did see a juvenile butterfly fish--so kind of a tropical dive:D ), but I have dove better viz days at the Polling that what we had in Bonaire. Since this was my first time there, I was hoping for the 80' viz they tout. However, the water temp was a heck of a lot nicer and the numbers of fish were impressive.
 
I'm headed to Bonaire in late March. It will be my first trip to that destination. I will also be staying in the Divi. They advertise free shore dives. What are your recommendations? It is unclear right now whether we will have access to transportation or not as a part of the package trip. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Art
 
Oceancat, glad you had a good time. Your description does sound like the Spelunk area. You were really lucky the weather cooperated to let you dive that site. If we had had more time on the island I would have liked to have dove more, and possibly further up, the east coast. Even though the vis wasn't at it's best it was still pretty good. And as Amazon said the number of turtles we ran into between just those two dives was fantastic. One even swam up and checked out our son up close. He had just finished his OW class a few days before. What a way to start off his diving.

Desert Diver, I hope you do get a truck with your package. That is the normal package but you might want to make sure. The freedom of shore diving is one of the things that makes Bonaire so unique. There's so much to see like Slagbaai National Park and so many dive sites to explore.

My one tip for you is to make sure you bring heavy soled dive boots. The shore is comprised mostly of ironshore, loose coral rubble, and loose rock which can be very hard on bare feet.
 
The inlet near the inscriptions is Boca Onima.
 
To the diver going in march: EVERYBODY in Bonaire has free shore dives? I actually liked the reef at Divi, but you will definitely get bored with it if that is the only thing you are diving. The group I went with did almost all boat dives--I chose to do boat dives in the am and shore dives in the PM (my dive buddy and I split the cost of a truck). The Divi boat went mostly to the places one shore dives anyway, so if you are only doing boat dives, you will still do most of the diving shore divers do. They do have a hertz on site, so you can always rent a car for the day (maybe $40 US?) for a change of scenery. Divi's location is nice because you can walk to town for dinner and lunch if you want. (and you should walk the opposite way to Richard's one night-a very good meal there). You will have fun. The diving is great.
 
Desert_Diver:
I'm headed to Bonaire in late March. It will be my first trip to that destination. I will also be staying in the Divi. They advertise free shore dives. What are your recommendations? It is unclear right now whether we will have access to transportation or not as a part of the package trip. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Art

Guess you should be finding out!!!!
 

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