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Hadn't been to Bonaire in many years, so for those of you that are never-evers or who haven't been in some time, here is our review, keeping in mind that our opinions are colored by having visited once before several years ago.
We couldn't stay an entire week, so flew Delta Atlanta to Aruba, spent several hours in town killing time, then flew DAE Curacao to Bonaire. Typical delays, but arrived in Bonaire less than two hours after scheduled time. Would not repeat this itinerary. Too long, too exhausting, too much hassle.
Arranged a truck with Poppy from Telerin. Representative missed us when we landed, so no one there to give us keys. Poppy answered her cell right away, though. The rep came back and we were on our way.
Stayed in a privately-owned 2nd floor condo that was adorable, comfortable, and a bargain at $85/night. We previously rented a house in Sabadeco from Sun Rentals, which was not available this time, and were planning to rent one of the Piet Boon villas before we read about the break-ins and decided not to risk being responsible for someone's expensive home.
Shore diving was fantastic! The marine life was just as plentiful as remembered. My husband remarked that the coral did not seem as brightly-colored, but that could well be a trick of his memory. There was evidence of reef damage from storms as has been mentioned, but really, it did not detract from our dives whatsoever. We saw only a couple of lionfish.
We went on a boat dive to Klein Bonaire with Div'Ocean, which was terrific. Money well spent. Saw wire coral and sea horses - a first on Bonaire. Also was fortunate enough to see the Ostracods show. Spectacular. Div'Ocean is highly recommended. 8 divers on the boat and the divemasters are top-notch.
Windsurfed with Jibe City. The wind died down a few days after we arrived, sadly, so we didn't get much time in. But, if it's something you want to try, Jibe City has a great intro package deal, and there cannot be a better place on the planet for a first lesson. Get up, fall off into shallow water, repeat until you no longer fall off. Great fun.
Tried to book a sailing cruise, but the boats were being prepped for Regatta and were thus unavailable.
Had authentic island dining at Maiky Snack. Eating goat stew while goats wander about the front yard is quite the experience. I did not partake, but my husband swears it was very tasty. Also ate at Norca's Cafe. She made traditional Indonesian dishes (nasi and bami goreng) for us with homemade sambal that was delicious. Plus, she is a delightful character to talk to, and is happy to share stories. Had a truly wonderful dinner at Four Seasons. I do not know why this restaurant is not as well-known as some others, but it's not for lack of food quality. We had an excellent meal of lobster bisque, a traditional Dutch Farmer's dish of beef, carrots, and potatoes, and local tuna with risotto and greens. Gio's Gelato is probably the best frozen dessert I have ever had, and at $1.75, it was the deal of the trip. Absolutely a no-miss if you like gelato/ice cream.
Van den Tweel's new market was one of the trip highlights. The last time we were in Bonaire, we only experienced Cultimara. VdT's is amazing - beautiful, clean, with fresh produce/fruits, a variety of cheeses/meats, cold dairy cases, freshly baked goods, chicken rotisserie. Wow. So many interesting things to look at, but I am food-focused and we cooked almost all our meals. You may find it less fascinating, but it's awesome to have a proper grocery nevertheless. Also visited Shely's Fruiteria, but there wasn't much in stock when we visited. The Warehouse had good prices but cannot compete with VdT's bling and selection.
Loved seeing the donkeys, iguanas, and lizards. Saw very few strays this time, so whatever local organization is coming to their aid is doing a bang-up job. Tried to book a beach horseback ride with Marion at the Riding Academy, but she was booked. She gets right back to you via email, though, so if this is something you'd like to do, you may have better luck by planning a few days in advance.
Flew back to the States via Delta Bonaire to Atlanta. Full flight, but it was trouble-free and on-time.
A few downsides to mention:
1. We brought insect repellant that was non-DEET based and were eaten alive. Do not let skeeters ruin an otherwise wonderful trip. Take DEET or some other potent insecticide. Apply liberally, especially at dusk and when dining outdoors. We may just have been unlucky, but we started referring to the bedroom as the "Safe Room" because we could spray the room with DEET, turn on the airco, close the door, wait 15 minutes, then hide from the bugs. Between the searing early October sun and the mosquitoes, we spent more time than I care to admit hiding in the Safe Room!
2. Check your tires. While we consider it part of the adventure, we lost most of a day's worth of our vacation dealing with a tire so worn that the tread actually peeled off. We didn't have to pay for it, but we did have to deal with taking it to a repair shop ourselves and being pretty much stranded at the shop (for hours) while a new tire was procured.
3. Riding a bike and/or running on Bonaire roads is risky. I was nearly run off the road twice - once by a driver with a beer in his hand and a baby in his lap and once by a tourist looking at a map who drove off the road. Proceed with caution and (preferably) a life insurance policy.
4. The island looks like it is under construction. There's the sewer renovation, a halted waterfront mall, and real estate in various stages. Locals have lots to say about these things. Hearing a local's perspective on 10/10/10 was illuminating.
4. The issues this island is having with crime permeated our entire trip. EVERYONE we came in contact with - the condo owner, the dive shop, local B&B owners we met, restaurateurs - mentioned it repeatedly - to the point that it became unnerving. Granted, we were there just as Regatta was gearing up, and apparently, crime peaks during that period, but for two country folks who don't even lock our front doors, it was unsettling. For city people, it's probably nothing.
Best wishes on your Bonaire travel, Elle
We couldn't stay an entire week, so flew Delta Atlanta to Aruba, spent several hours in town killing time, then flew DAE Curacao to Bonaire. Typical delays, but arrived in Bonaire less than two hours after scheduled time. Would not repeat this itinerary. Too long, too exhausting, too much hassle.
Arranged a truck with Poppy from Telerin. Representative missed us when we landed, so no one there to give us keys. Poppy answered her cell right away, though. The rep came back and we were on our way.
Stayed in a privately-owned 2nd floor condo that was adorable, comfortable, and a bargain at $85/night. We previously rented a house in Sabadeco from Sun Rentals, which was not available this time, and were planning to rent one of the Piet Boon villas before we read about the break-ins and decided not to risk being responsible for someone's expensive home.
Shore diving was fantastic! The marine life was just as plentiful as remembered. My husband remarked that the coral did not seem as brightly-colored, but that could well be a trick of his memory. There was evidence of reef damage from storms as has been mentioned, but really, it did not detract from our dives whatsoever. We saw only a couple of lionfish.
We went on a boat dive to Klein Bonaire with Div'Ocean, which was terrific. Money well spent. Saw wire coral and sea horses - a first on Bonaire. Also was fortunate enough to see the Ostracods show. Spectacular. Div'Ocean is highly recommended. 8 divers on the boat and the divemasters are top-notch.
Windsurfed with Jibe City. The wind died down a few days after we arrived, sadly, so we didn't get much time in. But, if it's something you want to try, Jibe City has a great intro package deal, and there cannot be a better place on the planet for a first lesson. Get up, fall off into shallow water, repeat until you no longer fall off. Great fun.
Tried to book a sailing cruise, but the boats were being prepped for Regatta and were thus unavailable.
Had authentic island dining at Maiky Snack. Eating goat stew while goats wander about the front yard is quite the experience. I did not partake, but my husband swears it was very tasty. Also ate at Norca's Cafe. She made traditional Indonesian dishes (nasi and bami goreng) for us with homemade sambal that was delicious. Plus, she is a delightful character to talk to, and is happy to share stories. Had a truly wonderful dinner at Four Seasons. I do not know why this restaurant is not as well-known as some others, but it's not for lack of food quality. We had an excellent meal of lobster bisque, a traditional Dutch Farmer's dish of beef, carrots, and potatoes, and local tuna with risotto and greens. Gio's Gelato is probably the best frozen dessert I have ever had, and at $1.75, it was the deal of the trip. Absolutely a no-miss if you like gelato/ice cream.
Van den Tweel's new market was one of the trip highlights. The last time we were in Bonaire, we only experienced Cultimara. VdT's is amazing - beautiful, clean, with fresh produce/fruits, a variety of cheeses/meats, cold dairy cases, freshly baked goods, chicken rotisserie. Wow. So many interesting things to look at, but I am food-focused and we cooked almost all our meals. You may find it less fascinating, but it's awesome to have a proper grocery nevertheless. Also visited Shely's Fruiteria, but there wasn't much in stock when we visited. The Warehouse had good prices but cannot compete with VdT's bling and selection.
Loved seeing the donkeys, iguanas, and lizards. Saw very few strays this time, so whatever local organization is coming to their aid is doing a bang-up job. Tried to book a beach horseback ride with Marion at the Riding Academy, but she was booked. She gets right back to you via email, though, so if this is something you'd like to do, you may have better luck by planning a few days in advance.
Flew back to the States via Delta Bonaire to Atlanta. Full flight, but it was trouble-free and on-time.
A few downsides to mention:
1. We brought insect repellant that was non-DEET based and were eaten alive. Do not let skeeters ruin an otherwise wonderful trip. Take DEET or some other potent insecticide. Apply liberally, especially at dusk and when dining outdoors. We may just have been unlucky, but we started referring to the bedroom as the "Safe Room" because we could spray the room with DEET, turn on the airco, close the door, wait 15 minutes, then hide from the bugs. Between the searing early October sun and the mosquitoes, we spent more time than I care to admit hiding in the Safe Room!
2. Check your tires. While we consider it part of the adventure, we lost most of a day's worth of our vacation dealing with a tire so worn that the tread actually peeled off. We didn't have to pay for it, but we did have to deal with taking it to a repair shop ourselves and being pretty much stranded at the shop (for hours) while a new tire was procured.
3. Riding a bike and/or running on Bonaire roads is risky. I was nearly run off the road twice - once by a driver with a beer in his hand and a baby in his lap and once by a tourist looking at a map who drove off the road. Proceed with caution and (preferably) a life insurance policy.
4. The island looks like it is under construction. There's the sewer renovation, a halted waterfront mall, and real estate in various stages. Locals have lots to say about these things. Hearing a local's perspective on 10/10/10 was illuminating.
4. The issues this island is having with crime permeated our entire trip. EVERYONE we came in contact with - the condo owner, the dive shop, local B&B owners we met, restaurateurs - mentioned it repeatedly - to the point that it became unnerving. Granted, we were there just as Regatta was gearing up, and apparently, crime peaks during that period, but for two country folks who don't even lock our front doors, it was unsettling. For city people, it's probably nothing.
Best wishes on your Bonaire travel, Elle
