Tobermory Dive Operations

[elan]

I figured you'd need to add a few pounds just cus the bottle + reg is a few pounds negative. What happened when you didn't do this, did you roll towards your left?

I figured out that if the bottle is full it's 4lb negative. I wear 20 lb w/o bottle and 16 with. If I do not compensate I feel being rolled to the left, I can stay horizontal but it's uncomfortable and I need to adjust my movements. Oce I move 3 lbs to the right pocket the balance is perfect.

 

[Coldwater_Canuck]

I use bungee cord, tied 1/3 of the way from the top of the tank, run the bungee down the tank to 1/3 of the way from the bottom. I may have a pic somewhere if you're interested. I used to use inner tubes from trailer tires, cut into strips, but these can be hard to manipulate to restow the reg when wearing gloves. *edit* In the avatar pic, the middle ALu 80 and the yellow 30 on the bottom shelf were still set up with the inner tube method when I took the pic.

You run the bungee down the tank? Isn't the point to go around? But if you have a pic, please post it, I'd be interested to see. For the inner tube method, do you just like cut a piece of inner tube up and then use electrical take or something to hold it together

Great image of the toilet paper tank, sounds like something I'd do.

Haha well I was trying it with just paper and wasn't working so well, then I realized these 4x toilet paper roles are almost exactly the diameter of a tank and 5 stacked up are about as long. It fell apart later, but served its purpose.

Try and have the sling strap just long enough that you can get your arm in between the tank and your body so you can access everything. I have dry gloves, so the space needs to be enough to get the dry glove rings through, too.

Ya I noticed that, because while I can operate my gear with my right hind, there are some buckles and stuff that I need to let my left hand to get to

 

[shoredivr]

Here's a stage tank setup I rigged for a rental ALu80 (I was on a business trip, brought my "travel" stage strap and bungee rigging and stage reg). You can see how the yellow bungee goes around the tank, runs down and around the tank again.


Inner tube strips are cut so that you have a ring of rubber that goes over the tank. The inner tube is empty, lying flat like a pizza. You cut from the outside of the tube straight through to the inside, sort of like slicing a pizza. The end result is a ring of black rubber, like a rubber band only much bigger, which you can see on the two tanks on the bottom shelf in this pic.

 

[Coldwater_Canuck]

Here's a stage tank setup I rigged for a rental ALu80 (I was on a business trip, brought my "travel" stage strap and bungee rigging and stage reg). You can see how the yellow bungee goes around the tank, runs down and around the tank again.

Thanks for the pic. So that is all a single bungee with a couple knots tied in it? Do you just get a bungee like that at Home Depot or something or is it some sort of specialty thing (I normally don't see bungee cords that long and thin).

I take it that strap is one you bought, not put together yourself?

And is that just rope holding the gauge in place.

Inner tube strips are cut so that you have a ring of rubber that goes over the tank. The inner tube is empty, lying flat like a pizza. You cut from the outside of the tube straight through to the inside, sort of like slicing a pizza. The end result is a ring of black rubber, like a rubber band only much bigger, which you can see on the two tanks on the bottom shelf in this pic.

Oh so you need to find an inner tube that havs a similar diameter as the tank?

 

[shoredivr]

Thanks for the pic. So that is all a single bungee with a couple knots tied in it? Do you just get a bungee like that at Home Depot or something or is it some sort of specialty thing (I normally don't see bungee cords that long and thin).

I take it that strap is one you bought, not put together yourself?

And is that just rope holding the gauge in place.


Oh so you need to find an inner tube that havs a similar diameter as the tank?

Yes, one piece of bungee....I got that online from DiveTech in Mallorytown, but you could find it in fabric stores, I think.....this stuff comes in lots of colours. If you're in Waterloo right now, you could drop in to Dean's Sport and Dive, they have some there, too. Deans Sport and Dive Kitcheners full service Scuba Store When you're tying it, you have to get the tension on the bungee right, not too loose on the tank or the reg just falls out.

Tank strap bought, yes, plus a hose clamp. It's another thicker piece of bungee holding the gauge in place, but you could use cave line too.

Crappy Tire for the inner tube, it's a trailer wheel size tube - I think - I got two years ago, it is slightly tight on the tank.

 

[Chruncharoo]

Well I tried to fire off a Pm to you, however it would appear that it doesn't want to go.

I'll be in toby on that weekend and would very much like to see those wrecks, or pretty much any wreck.

 

[Coldwater_Canuck]

Yes, one piece of bungee....I got that online from DiveTech in Mallorytown, but you could find it in fabric stores, I think.....this stuff comes in lots of colours. If you're in Waterloo right now, you could drop in to Dean's Sport and Dive, they have some there, too. Deans Sport and Dive Kitcheners full service Scuba Store When you're tying it, you have to get the tension on the bungee right, not too loose on the tank or the reg just falls out.

Tank strap bought, yes, plus a hose clamp. It's another thicker piece of bungee holding the gauge in place, but you could use cave line too.

Crappy Tire for the inner tube, it's a trailer wheel size tube - I think - I got two years ago, it is slightly tight on the tank.

Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll start buying the pieces then. First is a tank which I'll hopefully find for a decent price locally. Then I need to find a reg, Zeagle has 30% off a bunch of stuff so maybe I can get a 50D for a good price (or a Flathead 7 and use my current 6 for the pony).

 

[CDNScubaMoose]

So you got the same effect we have got that time with S600. Did you lower the IP after that case ? or what IP did you have ?

The IP has been set lower for this season - it is at the low end of the reccommended range (125 psi - I think). On my wish list is a MK17 and G250 but so are a lot of other goodies so not sure if it will happen this year or next year.

Good to know

But with the first vs second stage freeflow, when you hit the purge my logic would think that would be simulating a second stage freeflow (since the first stage isn't touched at all, it's just the second letting all the air out). Why is it a second stage freeflow doesn't resemble a purge?

I also realize in this discussion I should really take an equipment course when I have a chance to know what's going on "under the covers" a little better.

With a first stage freeflow - it is your first stage regulator that freezes open so the air basically has a direct route from the tank, through the 1st stage, down your LP hose and out the 2nd stage. Its a pile of air coming at you in a short period of time and if you are able to keep you reg in your mouth, you look like a chipmunk. This is what is being simulated in your course when you completely depress the purge button - a pile of air/gas.

With a second stage freeflow, the 2nd stage doesn't completely close and a steady stream of air/gas continuous to pass through the 2nd stage. It is easy to keep your reg in your mouth and is more of an inconvience. Problem is the stream of air/gas is constant which means the 1st stage is constantly open a little bit and with air/gas constantly going through it the 1st stage continues to get colder until it freezes open - now you have a 1st stage freelow. So a 2nd stage freeflow can lead to a first stage freeflow which is why it important to realize one when it happens. My very first one about 4 years ago started like that and as I was trying to figure out "what that noise was" the extremely cold water was enough to freeze the first stage too.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Well I tried to fire off a Pm to you, however it would appear that it doesn't want to go.

I'll be in toby on that weekend and would very much like to see those wrecks, or pretty much any wreck.

I know that ScubaBoard puts limitations on new accounts to help ensure they are not SPAM accounts. Try getting your post count up above 5 and then try the PM again. That may work but am not sure.

 

[Coldwater_Canuck]

With a first stage freeflow - it is your first stage regulator that freezes open so the air basically has a direct route from the tank, through the 1st stage, down your LP hose and out the 2nd stage. Its a pile of air coming at you in a short period of time and if you are able to keep you reg in your mouth, you look like a chipmunk. This is what is being simulated in your course when you completely depress the purge button - a pile of air/gas.

With a second stage freeflow, the 2nd stage doesn't completely close and a steady stream of air/gas continuous to pass through the 2nd stage. It is easy to keep your reg in your mouth and is more of an inconvience. Problem is the stream of air/gas is constant which means the 1st stage is constantly open a little bit and with air/gas constantly going through it the 1st stage continues to get colder until it freezes open - now you have a 1st stage freelow. So a 2nd stage freeflow can lead to a first stage freeflow which is why it important to realize one when it happens. My very first one about 4 years ago started like that and as I was trying to figure out "what that noise was" the extremely cold water was enough to freeze the first stage too.

Oh I see, so if the second stage were to freeze COMPLETELY open (not sure if this is possible), it would for all purposes we the same thing as a first stage free-flow? (and hitting the purge is the same as a "complete" freeze.

So I guess the difference isn't in the first or second freezing itself, but rather that the first tends to freeze completely open while the second tends to freeze only partially open (*'tends to' may mean 'always')