Tips on older camera

[mickeyroi]

I dive often in California but have never purchased an underwater camera because I am worried about losing/breaking all of that expensive equipment. So my next vacation will be a liveaboard in Belize and one of my colleagues who used to dive a lot let me borrow his old Sea&Sea Motormarine 35 (the very first model) that he hasn't touched in 5 years.

I am looking for tips on using this older-style camera (other than "buy a newer one" :shakehead ). Specifically, I am worried that focusing will be difficult. As you know, there is a dial that can be adjusted for different focusing distance. Is it accurate? Is it difficult to estimate distance underwater when distances are distorted? Will the flash (which is not external but as part of the camera) create big problems with the reflection of particules in the water (i.e. am I better off not using the flash feature?).

I also have a second question: there appears to be some type of hole in the housing with an o-ring smaller than a dime that is plugged by a plastic disk with a nut on the other side. Is this some type of purge feature? The reason I am asking is that the plastic part broke off (as my colleague was playing with it) and I am trying to figure out how to fix it..

I will be diving with the camera in California to practice a few times before taking it abroad.

-Michael

 

[Brewski]

I have a motor marine II In fairly clear water with your focus set to 3 ft (1 M) you may be ok with the built in flash. I would expect a lot of backscatter using any on board flash tho. and if you decide not to use the flash you probably won't get any shots you like. they will all be greenish in over all color. so the best compromise would be to get close and keep the distance between you and your subject minimized to reduce the amount of particles between you and the subject.
The camera has the same percieved distance as your eye so your estimation of distance should be fairly accurate.
from what you describe I believe the hole you mention would be the cover for the external flash sync cord. if its broken I wouldn't take the camera diving. you'll most likely flood the unit.

 

[mickeyroi]

Thanks for the info! I plugged the hole with the plastic disc, epoxied the whole thing, and took it to 115ft... nice and dry!
The bad news is that it turns out that the flash doesn't work at all (flash ready light goes on, but the capacitor doesn't discharge).. not sure if it is the bulb, or something else... Camera repair shop isn't willing to touch it. I'm going to try to install a new bulb myself and, if that doesn't do it, dump the camera.

If I take the camera to clear tropical waters and take shallow shots (at 30 ft) without a flash.. will the colors still be lost at that depth?

 

[Stu S.]

The plastic disc may be a vent something like the exhaust valve on a regulator. That's what it is on mine. That keeps the camera from getting overpressurized if it is left to get warm. There is a place in California that services these cameras. I checked into that a couple of years back. The "annual maintenance service" was about $100. And, the $17 for the vent valve that broke on mine, maybe like yours.

Mine cost $160 back in 1985. It was a reasonable alternative to the Nikonos which was $400+, or getting an Ikelite housing for a regular camera. It was fun. If I wanted to get back into photography, I might just plug that hole and give it a try. There's nothing to lose. Seriously, a plastic housing for a modern digital camera will result in something far superior.

The problem I had was backscatter. I tried to keep ahead of the pack on those reefs to get water as clear as possible. Not so much of an issue without flash. Have fun with it.

 

[mickeyroi]

i've thought about a plastic housing for my digital camera (casio exilim), but I am completely freaked out by the thought of it flooding .. :eyecrazy: Or are my flooding fears misplaced?

 

[Stu S.]

There are plenty of posts on that topic. My only experience is with the oldie that I mentioned.