Tips for strobe use

[Mel.B]

Hi,

I've just got myself a D180 strobe and would appreciated any little tips on how to get the best performance from it. I usually just shoot in P mode, but realise I may have to start moving away from this now. I have an Oly 5050-Pt015 combination.

So hints and tips such as camera & strobe settings, which way to position the stobe etc would be wonderful

Thanks!
Mel

 

[jlyle]

Since you have been shooting "P" mode, let's take this one step at a time.

The camera's brain isn't that big and it often makes assumptions that are simply wrong for u/w photography. So, if you want "automatic" PHS operation (push here, stupid), then go to shutter priority and set the speed to 1/60 which is the slowest speed at which you can hold the camera steady without a tripod. Make sure the flash isn't on "auto" - should be "slow" for TTL. Set the EV to -1.0. Take a picture and see if it looks okay and then continue firing away.

Strobe setting: http://www.kelpfish.net/strobe.swf

Next lesson - full manual.

 

[f3nikon]

Since you have been shooting "P" mode, let's take this one step at a time.

The camera's brain isn't that big and it often makes assumptions that are simply wrong for u/w photography. So, if you want "automatic" PHS operation (push here, stupid), then go to shutter priority and set the speed to 1/60 which is the slowest speed at which you can hold the camera steady without a tripod. Make sure the flash isn't on "auto" - should be "slow" for TTL. Set the EV to -1.0. Take a picture and see if it looks okay and then continue firing away.

Strobe setting: http://www.kelpfish.net/strobe.swf

Next lesson - full manual.

Good point, right on the money. You could also try Aperture priority, and let the camera help you set the shutter speed by the aperture that you set. The shutter will be one less job to deal with. You just have to worry about the foreground subjects which is handled by the strobe/aperture combinaton.

The background is handled by the shutter, in which the camera's exposure meter will be helping. The background could be light blue, deep blue to totally black, it's the foreground that is most important. Total manual adjustments (shutter speed and apertures) maybe a little too much information overload.

Just keep an eye on the shutter speed from time to time, so as not to exceed its limits.

Again, great fish frontal protraits from Cozumel.

Dive Safe

 

[Mel.B]

Thanks for the tips! I will definately be booking in for that next lesson

I was hoping to get it wet this weekend, but have just discovered that the fibre optic cable I have is not suitable for my housing (I have the Pt-015 and have cable W2...when I bought it 2nd hand I didn't realise there were different cable types - D'Oh!) and I don't think the new cable will arrive in time for the weekend.

Thanks!
Mel

 

[Wolverine]

Thanks for the tips! I will definately be booking in for that next lesson

I was hoping to get it wet this weekend, but have just discovered that the fibre optic cable I have is not suitable for my housing (I have the Pt-015 and have cable W2...when I bought it 2nd hand I didn't realise there were different cable types - D'Oh!) and I don't think the new cable will arrive in time for the weekend.

Thanks!
Mel

The optic cable should be the same for all housings. It is only the mount that is different. The cable should look like the attached photo. For the PT-015, u would need the Cap W5 from Inon. U can order the cap separate from the cable.

 

[Mel.B]

Thanks for that tip Tim! I have put in an order for the cable, so hopefully I'm not to late to change it.

 

[herman]

If you are handy with a dremel tool, drill and a file you can also just make one. All you need is a piece of plastic bar stock about 1/2in square and 3/4 long. I made one to fit my Pt-015. The only thing I found different between any of the mounts is the actual part that attached the mount to the housing, all the fiber and reflector parts are the same. It takes me 15- 20 minutes to make one.

 

[justleesa]

I have the same set up as you do and I have the setting on the strobe set to automatic and the camera is set to Manual.

When you push the OK button on the camera and enter mode menu>Camera>>Flash and set it to Slave and > Slow set to slow 1.

Then when I'm taking the picture I set the other dial on the stobe to the same shutter speed that the camera has. Now it's trail and error time until you get the knack of it. If the picture is too light turn to the left one or two settings - too dark you turn to the right or you can change the settings on the camera (I find the strobe method easier)

Good luck!

Aloha,
Lisa

 

[DrSteve]

We just got the same flash as well with a c5050 and housing. Essentially it is a manual flash and we found the best results were obtained by using 1/100 and f5.6 in manual mode and adjusting the strobe power manually. After some experience we knew when to use the full power or M-4 power mode etc., When we couldn't get a good picture with lowest flash power I would turn to apature priority and dial down the apature to f11 and try again. It will take time to get it right and I strongly advise you to try it when you first enter the water and get it right at the start of your very first dive. Just winging it will be very dissapointing.

 

[scubaguy655]

I just got back from Little Cayman using the same set-up (Oly 5050-Inon D180 strobe). I set the camera to manual....same flash set-up as justleesa described....1/100-EV -3 f5.6. As mentioned already, use the settings on the flash to adjust exposure.

The one big lesson I learned is to use the clear photo system-cover camera internal flash with the dark piece of film that I got with the flash......this helps on backscatter tremendously IMO.

Good luck!