Tips for a beginner?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

mohave_steve

Contributor
Messages
315
Reaction score
2
Location
Dayton, WA
# of dives
100 - 199
Hello All,

I just returned from my first trip with my camera. I shot quite a few pics but I am not
very happy with the results. I would certainly appreciate it it you could take a look at the and offer any tips or suggestions for improving.

mohave_steve/Cabo/cabo pulmo - Page 1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

mohave_steve/Cabo - Page 1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Camera is an Olympus 5060 using built in flash. I think I may be needing an impproved strobe to improve the color. What do you thinK?

Thanks

Steve
 
Hello All,

I just returned from my first trip with my camera. I shot quite a few pics but I am not
very happy with the results. I would certainly appreciate it it you could take a look at the and offer any tips or suggestions for improving.

mohave_steve/Cabo/cabo pulmo - Page 1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

mohave_steve/Cabo - Page 1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Camera is an Olympus 5060 using built in flash. I think I may be needing an impproved strobe to improve the color. What do you thinK?

Thanks

Steve

A strobe would help but 1st things 1st, what settings were you using??........Reason I ask, note pics below in my sig using a Canon A570 with built in flash only. I'm thinking you can improve your shots maybe with better settings...I use lowest ISO(80) & macro all the time, evaluate white balance, & only vary the f-stop while on Aperature Priority setting........Rethink your settings is what I'd do 1st.....The strobe can come later.......


EDIT: & of course get close---ie when you think you're close enough, get closer.......and shoot upwards.......
 
Please embed three or four images that you would like feedback on. It's too time consuming and confusing to go through galleries to offer specific help :wink: If you need help with embedding photos, please check out the Sticky (click the Pink Link in my sig) and scroll down for step-by-step directions.

Look forward to seeing your photos and helping however I can.
 
Wow,

Some really nice pics!

I used the "program" setting. All auto. I have past experience with film photography and manipulating camera settings to suit the particular shot but I am a little lost trying to apply my film experience to digital.

Also, shooting up yielded some of my worst pictures... The backlighting resulted in an underexposed subject. Suggestions?

As to white balance, is there "rule of thumb" for underwater? Or just trial & error?

When I shot the eel's I was concerned about getting too close. Lots of teeth :)

I found that shooting during the dive changes the entire dynamic of the dive. Do you focus on the shots and take the time to get it just right or are you able to get those shots during the course of a normal dive?
 
Do you focus on the shots and take the time to get it just right or are you able to get those shots during the course of a normal dive?
The easy answer is 'both'! You need a buddy who is happy to stooge around (close to you!) while you spend many minutes composing a shot. At other times, a 'quick snap' is possible.

A good habit to get into (because it can sometimes take a while to get a decent shot) is check SPG - compose - shoot - check SPG again. It is sometimes surprising just how long photography can take (hence the absolute need for a good buddy).

Sorry, I cannot comment on your actual photos - photobucket is one of the sites I cannot access in Dubai (they have strange banning practices!).

Enjoy.
 
Wow,

Some really nice pics!

I used the "program" setting. All auto. I have past experience with film photography and manipulating camera settings to suit the particular shot but I am a little lost trying to apply my film experience to digital.
Settings such as aperture, shutter and ISO (film speed) work the same way with digital and film. One thing that you do have to remember is that on your camera, f8 will be much like f22 is on an slr camera and wide apertures such as 2.8 won't be quite as wide open as they are on slrs. But if you ignore the numbers in these instances, everything else is the same :wink:

Also, shooting up yielded some of my worst pictures... The backlighting resulted in an underexposed subject. Suggestions?
Control your background colour with your shutter speed - the higher your shutter speed, the darker your background water will be.

As to white balance, is there "rule of thumb" for underwater? Or just trial & error?
Reset your manual white balance every few meters or whenever the light changes. IF you can shoot in RAW, do so and set your WB in post on the computer instead.

I found that shooting during the dive changes the entire dynamic of the dive. Do you focus on the shots and take the time to get it just right or are you able to get those shots during the course of a normal dive?
It's all about communication with your buddy before the dive. You both have to set goals and paths to reach them ... then you must both dive that way once you are under. It can be tough to dive with a non-photographer, so you need to be very clear about exactly what you are going to do before you hit the water.

Check out the Sticky - there is a ton of additional information that you should find very useful as you start down the fun (and expensive) path that is underwater photography!
 
Here is a link to a gallery of all stock flash Program mode 5050/PT-015 photo's. Shot in RAW, most requiring very little in post processing other than minimal raw conversion with the Camedia Master software that came with the camera. The camera was less than 3 feet from the subjects on all these photos, less than 2 feet for most, less than 1 foot for many.

halemano : photos : GreaterUluaFlash- powered by SmugMug

Granted the lens in your 5060 is not as good as the lens in the 5050, but you should be able to get results similar to most of these shots with your camera. When using flash or strobe, there is no need to worry about white balance in close-ups like these; that is for shots with lots of ambient background.

When we say to shoot up we are not talking about shooting into the sun flare. We are saying to shoot pointing above horizontal; one degree above horizontal is shooting up. If you are in the water 9-11 AM or 1-3 PM you can shoot significantly up and still have the sun behind you.

Remember this; we do not use zoom on 99% of p&s underwater photography. I have never used zoom with my 5050; only with an old Minolta that had a 35mm/50mm switch and I rarely liked the zoom results. As divers we have fins; that is our zoom. If you hold the camera out in front of the eel he will see his reflection in the port lens and will not go for your fingers.

242682913_.jpg

Get as close as you think you should, and then get closer. When you have a bunch of blurry shots because you are too close, get a macro wet lens. :eyebrow:
 
Learn your critters. This will let you get closer comfortably. Have really good bouyancy so you're relaxed in the water and don't have to kick up silt to get close to your subject. Start composing your picture in your head as you approach your subject. That way, you'll already be in good position for your shot, and you'll get it the first time without spooking the subject. When I first started, I got lots of fish butts because I'd be moving around trying to compose my shot and the fish or other subject would take off just as I squeezed the button. Now, I look for a subject and judge what it is about to do. I set up for the shot I want and wait for the fish to be in it. It doesn't always work that way, but if you learn the behaviors of your subjects and take your time, you'll often be rewarded. Also, animals look at the eyes of their predators for early warning. Use your screen to set up the shot while you hide your eyes behind the camera and many subjects will hang around.
 
Thanks for the tips.

I had never considered shielding my eyes from the subject to avoid scaring them.

I also took more "fish butt" pictures than anything else. Sadly they are some of the clearest & best exposed.....

I allready knew not to use the zoom on the camera. "Use your fins & arms as your zoom"

I do still wonder how close I can safely get to subjects with big teeth??

Thanks again

Steve
 

Back
Top Bottom