the pins of the charging head on cobalt are de-soldered. Any fix known ?

[RonR]

I haven't seen the solder joints fail previously, and indeed if they did so it would indicate a bad joint- the solder should be much stronger than the copper to PCB attachment. In any case the remedy is the same. If you don't get a replacement soon let me know and I will contact them.

I can't help much on the algorithm question, except to suggest that the best solution is to use the Cobalt's onboard simulator. You can change settings there and quickly run a variety of profiles, seeing what matches the other computer most closely. Changing settings in the simulator environment won't change them in the "real" diving side of the Cobalt, you can experiment at will.

Hope this helps.

Ron

 

[guruboy]

If the solder pads are indeed still intact you probably had a cold solder joint. Would be easy for someone with some soldering skills to fix.

 

[fnog]

I can't help much on the algorithm question, except to suggest that the best solution is to use the Cobalt's onboard simulator. You can change settings there and quickly run a variety of profiles, seeing what matches the other computer most closely. Changing settings in the simulator environment won't change them in the "real" diving side of the Cobalt, you can experiment at will.
Ron

Sure it helps. That is more work to punch in a few simulations, but it will also be a more accurate match for the profiles we plan to do. Two sides to a coin and all that. If I make 5 different profiles on the Cobalt, it will be easy enough to tweak the user GF from the Seabear until I get a good match at 5m and 12m. Still no news from germany.

Thanks.

 

[fnog]

If the solder pads are indeed still intact you probably had a cold solder joint. Would be easy for someone with some soldering skills to fix.

These are surface mount solders that are in between the pad and the bottom of a gold plated pin. And the pitch is tiny. I could attempt that fix but am a bit hesitant... any advice on the procedure ? All I have is a cheap round soldering iron tip. No oven except in the kitchen.

If I must do the solder, I think it will be easier (staged process) and the final result more resilient if I interpose a tiny compression spring. What's your opinion on that option ?

 

[RonR]

These are surface mount solders that are in between the pad and the bottom of a gold plated pin. And the pitch is tiny. I could attempt that fix but am a bit hesitant... any advice on the procedure ? All I have is a cheap round soldering iron tip. No oven except in the kitchen.

If I must do the solder, I think it will be easier (staged process) and the final result more resilient if I interpose a tiny compression spring. What's your opinion on that option ?

I expect Atomic will just replace this for you, particularly if the original solder joint was bad, and the pin would not have separated from the PCB if it were not. That would be the better option.

I've reassembled a lot of these over the last 6-7 years, particularly when we were first making them. The problem with soldering them is not that the pitch is small, it's .1" (though they bases are close together), it's that the pins are tall in relation to the base size, they won't stand in place without being held, and holding the pins upright in the exact position they need to be in to fit back into the adapter shell is extremely difficult without some kind of positioning aid. There is not much slack in the alignment before they just don't go back in the housing. I machined a jig from a piece of aluminum out that I could screw the PCB into and that is drilled out to hold the pins in the exact alignment required. There is a cutout to allow room to solder the bases. Making something like that would be a lot of trouble unless there were no other alternative. Holding the pins with pliers or tweezers is unlikely to give precise enough results- I've never been able to do it. Trying to reflow the solder in an oven would just result in the components on the other side falling off.

If you want to do it just for the experience, then I'd recommend some kind of heatproof jig, but if you just want to get functional I'd go thorough Atomic.

-Ron

 

[fnog]

Indeed : a replacement was sent by Atomic US yesterday.

The american support for the Atomic Cobalt products is still top-notch, it did not seem to be affected by the company mergers or get out of breath. That is a major factor for anyone purchasing a dive computer. I am a bit jealous of my wife's shiny and new Seabear DC, until I think about support...