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TG6 Video settings (too dark)

Discussion in 'The Olympus Outlet' started by sunnyboy, May 18, 2020.

  1. sunnyboy

    sunnyboy Instructor, Scuba

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
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    I have my TG6 set up as per backscatters recommendations. I'm diving PNW so ... dark and crummy visibility a lot of the time. As a result, I am using "A", 1/125, auto ISO (normally runs 400 on most photos), F8 and -2 on the exposure. I'm also running an Inon S2000 strobe (TTL) with the TG6 on "fill flash", triggered by an optical cable.

    My photos are just fine.

    However, when I push the "video" record button, my videos are super dark, and I don't know why.

    I would have thought the Exp -2 was for photo only, not for photo AND video. However, in the absence of other info I conclude maybe the photo exposure info is also being used for video.

    Does anyone have any tips or setup to get bright video (or at least "full natural light") when I push the video record button? Today it did it again and I was coming in, 12fst in bright sunny conditions. If I'd had my gopro it would have been a sunny bright video, but the TG6 just gave me this dark, dark video.

    Any video set-up tips, or better yet - a way to have separate video/photo settings would be much appreciated.

    Thanks,
    -R
     
  2. MargaritaMike

    MargaritaMike Divemaster ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: On a non-divable lake in SE Texas
    891
    803
    93
    Use the Custom Mode setting (C1, C2)??? I don't know. It's just a guess. Set it for a picture with more exposure, then push the video button.

    It worked on mine.

    The other option is to get a video light.

    Cheers
     
    Kimela and markmud like this.
  3. sunnyboy

    sunnyboy Instructor, Scuba

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
    808
    303
    63
    I have a video light, but don't always want to use it, especially in ambient light situations.

    I did experiment with the camera today, and I think I've found 'the rule' the camera uses. It seems to use whatever photo setting you have as the basis for video when you press record. As I said, my "A" setting has -2 on the exposure (as per Backscatter's guidelines), and video is dark.

    I tried "P", and noticed it carries over the -2 Exp. As a result, video was also dark.

    I then tried "Auto", which does not carry over the -2 Exp. Video was bright and clear.

    I really did not want to have to turn the mode dial just to get good video, but I am satisfied if I switch to "Auto" before I start recording video I will be fine. But it is a pain, especially when I'm most likely to record a video "spur of the moment" if I see something interesting.
     
  4. tursiops

    tursiops Marine Scientist and Master Instructor ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 2,500 - 4,999
    Location: U.S. East Coast
    10,042
    7,789
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    Yes, EV -2 applies to still and video.
    But there is no reason to use it. except to darken the water in the background of your stills, because the -2 assures darkness in ambient light. Here's how it works: you have the camera on A, so it tries to adjust the camera automatically by changing ISO (you have it on Auto) or shutter speed to give you the best exposure without a strobe. (If you are in A mode, the camera chooses the shutter speed...so how do you say you use 1/125?) Then, you use your strobe and there is plenty of light in the foreground, but the background stays dark because the strobe can't reach that far. Now, you switch the camera to video, changing nothing else....now everything is dark, like the background in the still pictures, because you do not have the strobe illuminating anything.

    Try this guide Olympus TG-5 and TG-6 Underwater Settings.

    The ultimate solution is to go to page 37 in the TG-6 manual and learn to set up C1 and C2 on the mode dial. Set up one for your stills, and the other for your video. Quick switch when desired. It’s easy to switch back and forth between the two using the mode dial.

    Remember, the TG-6 is almost automatic....it does the best it can to give you a good exposure in the ambient light conditions unless you override it, which is what the EV -2 does.
     
    Bora_Horza likes this.
  5. Chris Ross

    Chris Ross Manta Ray

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: Sydney Australia
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    Don't use f8 - Backscatter does not seem to get this. On the TG-6 f8 is an aperture of f2.8 with a 3 stop ND filter - all it does is suck up light- there are some occasions where you might want to do this such as achieving a black BG in bright tropical water, but probably not the PNW. It does not give you more depth of field.

    The -2 exp compensation on photos is to trick the camera so that strobe light dominates in photos over ambient otherwise the camera will tone down the flash exposure. But if you are using manual flash you can just dial the flash up as long as it does not force the shutter speed too low by not using the ambient exposure compensation.

    The best way might be to use the two custom modes available and setup up one for photos with whatever exp comp you need and one for video without compensation.
     
  6. sunnyboy

    sunnyboy Instructor, Scuba

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
    808
    303
    63
    I must admit I'm not as thrilled with the TG-6 as I thought I'd be. I bought it mostly for size when scootering, and on that score it's brilliant. However, compared to say my G16 it's just not as comfortable to use.

    I think I'll continue to play. Sounds like a good first step is to kill the -2 exp. It's too bad the TG6 does not have a "T" mode like Canon... you have to fake it by using A mode and restricting the shutter speed.. Again, sounds like "A" and F2.8 for now.

    As for strobe, the type of photos I usually take means I hate manual flash with a passion. I'm not spending minutes setting up for the 'perfect shot' and then fussing with strobe power to get it 'just right'. 90+% of my photos are 'off the cuff' or 'candid' shots of things I see and want to photo before they vanish. A lot of things dart about and if you aren't quick, you don't get the shot. So as a result I am (for now) a dedicated TTL flash person. IT means the difference between a shot of a critter vs. a shot of where a critter used to be. :)
     

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