peterbkk:If a housing is going to leak, it wil leak in the first couple of meters. After the first couple of meters, the pressure differential will be jamming the o-rings tightly into the grooves. Testing it to 10, 20 or 30 meters is not going to make any difference.
If you have a 3 meter deep swimming pool close by, you can test your new housing without wasting a dive. Wrap a weight in tissue, put it into the housing, lower it slowly to the bottom of the pool, looking for bubbles (after the initial external air bubbles have floated off) on the way down. Leave it on the bottom for a few minutes then haul it out. Rinse it in a bucket of fresh water to remove the pool chemicals. Dry the outside thoroughly. Then open and look for droplets and / or dampness in the tissues. If OK, put the camera in the housing, carefully check the o-rings, seal it and go diving.
Regards
Peter
Hmm, I disagree a little bit here. In theory, it sounds good with the pressure sealing up the o-ring and what but I don't think it works out quite like that. For example, a wrist watch that is pressured tested and is water resistant to 100m. Basically they are being tested in static pressure to equavalent of 100m which for practical purpose, they are ok for swimming and snorkeling ie definitely good for down to 3m at the bottom of the pool however they can and will often flood when you scuba dive with them (from personal experience). Dynamic pressure change is a more robust test to test for leakage. While the biggest pressure change occur at surface, I don't think 3m of water is enough to really put the housing to the test.
I never had any experience with flooded housing but flooded my strobe once when the casing had a little crack (I dropped it on the boat before the dive). It worked for most of the dive so I assumed that the flood did not happened right away during the first 3m of descending and happened quite a bit later in the dive. Otherwise, I have flooded a couple of cheapo wristwatches here and there.