Tank "roll"

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Aquabot

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If this question has been asked before I apologize in advance.

My issue is with my tanks wanting to "roll" outward whenever I attach my bungees to the valve handles, I'm assuming this may be because my bungee are too tight but I'm not sure. Has anybody dealt with this, and if so how did you fix the issue?


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Where do you have your bottom clip located in relation to the tank value handle? What kind of bungee setup are you using?
 
What rig and what bungee method are you using? I guess you're talking about the XDeep and XDeep's stock bungees...is that a correct assumption?
 
Where do you have your bottom clip located in relation to the tank value handle? What kind of bungee setup are you using?

With the valve at a 12'o clock position my lower clips are a 3. I've tried moving them to 130 and 2 with no luck.

What rig and what bungee method are you using? I guess you're talking about the XDeep and XDeep's stock bungees...is that a correct assumption?

Yes you are correct it is the XDeep and stock bungee. I'm using the floating loop design.


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Do you mean the valve knobs at 12 o'clock or the 1st stages at 12 o'clock? What cylinders are you using? Steel or aluminum? If steel, what brand? With lighter cylinders and the loop bungees the tanks will roll. This just happens. See here - Sidemount Cylinders « Rob Neto

With aluminum cylinders you can either offset the roll with weights on the bands or by changing your attachment point as the cylinders get breathed down. With steel cylinders you can use weights, but changing the attachment point will only make them front mounted.
 
Do you mean the valve knobs at 12 o'clock or the 1st stages at 12 o'clock? What cylinders are you using? Steel or aluminum? If steel, what brand? With lighter cylinders and the loop bungees the tanks will roll. This just happens. See here - Sidemount Cylinders « Rob Neto

With aluminum cylinders you can either offset the roll with weights on the bands or by changing your attachment point as the cylinders get breathed down. With steel cylinders you can use weights, but changing the attachment point will only make them front mounted.

Thank for the article, was definitely helpful. Yes they are aluminium and the valve knobs are at 12'o clock (knobs down first stages in towards my body). I'm still thinking my bungees might be to tight because the tank "roll" was there regardless of air pressure, but will give weights on the cam band a try the next chance I get.

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Do you mean the valve knobs at 12 o'clock or the 1st stages at 12 o'clock? What cylinders are you using? Steel or aluminum? If steel, what brand? With lighter cylinders and the loop bungees the tanks will roll. This just happens. See here - Sidemount Cylinders « Rob Neto

With aluminum cylinders you can either offset the roll with weights on the bands or by changing your attachment point as the cylinders get breathed down. With steel cylinders you can use weights, but changing the attachment point will only make them front mounted.

Rob,
Have you ever tried HP119's? I have 2 of these and was going to try them for sidemount rather than sell these and buy 2 other tanks if I can. It will be with drysuit so the extra weight is probably a good thing, just not surr how they will trim out. Thanks.
 
Thank for the article, was definitely helpful. Yes they are aluminium and the valve knobs are at 12'o clock (knobs down first stages in towards my body). I'm still thinking my bungees might be to tight because the tank "roll" was there regardless of air pressure, but will give weights on the cam band a try the next chance I get.

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It could be the bungees are too tight or it could just be the orientation of your valves. Having the knobs pointing down creates a bit of an issue. With the knobs pointing out the bungees simply hold the valves up. With the knobs pointing down the bungees pull the valve up but they also tend to pull the knobs out. I would try reorienting the knobs first so they sit naturally at 3 and 9 o'clock rather than 12 o'clock. This will mean you have to place the bottom attachment at about 8 and 4.

---------- Post added May 30th, 2013 at 03:16 AM ----------

Rob,
Have you ever tried HP119's? I have 2 of these and was going to try them for sidemount rather than sell these and buy 2 other tanks if I can. It will be with drysuit so the extra weight is probably a good thing, just not surr how they will trim out. Thanks.

I haven't. If you're using additional weight I don't see an issue with it. The thing to think about is the characteristics of the tanks. What brand are they? Are they bottom heavy? I would try to borrow a set and try it before buying.
 
It could be the bungees are too tight or it could just be the orientation of your valves. Having the knobs pointing down creates a bit of an issue. With the knobs pointing out the bungees simply hold the valves up. With the knobs pointing down the bungees pull the valve up but they also tend to pull the knobs out. I would try reorienting the knobs first so they sit naturally at 3 and 9 o'clock rather than 12 o'clock. This will mean you have to place the bottom attachment at about 8 and 4.

---------- Post added May 30th, 2013 at 03:16 AM ----------



I haven't. If you're using additional weight I don't see an issue with it. The thing to think about is the characteristics of the tanks. What brand are they? Are they bottom heavy? I would try to borrow a set and try it before buying.

Thanks dive aholic, you pretty much confirmed my suspicions. I was planing on relocating my lower attachment to 12'o clock (in line with the valve knob) this weekend to counter act the about 90* roll. Ill report on whether that fixed the issue or not.

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I haven't. If you're using additional weight I don't see an issue with it. The thing to think about is the characteristics of the tanks. What brand are they? Are they bottom heavy? I would try to borrow a set and try it before buying.

I already own 2 - 119's, they are XS Worthington 119's. i used them for backmout singles, I will just have to try them out and see.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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