Tank Purchase Questions

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I think renting is a good idea for you. Being a big guy, you may find you use more air than your buddies and that may drive your decision down the road for a larger steel tank. Renting tanks is easy and cost effective for many.


Yes I think I need to get in the water and see how it works before buying a second tank. I'm going to West Palm Beach for my open water dives and I wanted to dive more while I'm down there after I get my certification. It's standard procedure for dive outfits and shops to have tanks you can rent then?
 
Most dive shops have tanks you can rent. The type of tank will vary with the locale.... here in Hawaii, you'll find most shops renting Al80's and Al63's.

Aluminum vs Steel: There are pro's and con's with each.

Steel is more expensive, but has better buoyancy characteristics than aluminum, and comes in a greater variety of sizes.

Aluminum is cheaper, and wont rust.

With thin wetsuits (tropical diving), the improved buoyancy characteristics of steel are somewhat lost by the fact that they may be too negative.

Longevity for either steel or aluminum is not generally an issue. On of my tanks (Al80 with J-valve) has its original hydro in 1978. It passes visual each year, and I expect it to keep passing hydo's. I still use my very first steel 72, which I bought in 1976 right after OW class.

Rent different tanks if you can, then buy the one you like best for your type of diving.

Best wishes.
 
Definitely do not run out and purchase expensive steel tanks, get some dive experience with your AL80, rent/borrow a few different tanks, and wait for the right deal to come along on steel tanks that you want, once you've figured out what are best for you. Being in FL, you'll find lots and lots of used tanks, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with buying them. I've never bought a new scuba tank, I doubt that I ever will.
 
Definitely do not run out and purchase expensive steel tanks, get some dive experience with your AL80, rent/borrow a few different tanks, and wait for the right deal to come along on steel tanks that you want, once you've figured out what are best for you. Being in FL, you'll find lots and lots of used tanks, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with buying them. I've never bought a new scuba tank, I doubt that I ever will.

I'm in full agreement, I'll keep watching craigslist while I test out some rented tanks. Thanks for the info to all that responded.
 
The aluminum 80 I have now is a catalina, got it off craigslist with some other equipment, never used, filled with air. The guy was supposed to go on a month long vacation to the keys with his parents, but he didn't go. The tank has a sticker on it that says enriched air ready, so I want to get a second aluminum that will take nitrox, I realize now the Sherwood does not, but the tank that's 60 bucks more does. (scuba.com)

Aluminum tanks require more weight at the end of a dive? I'm 5'10" and I weight about 280, I'm pretty muscular from lifting weights, but I do have a fat gut. Do you think that will affect my buoyancy due to water displacement?

I want to get good value for my money. I'm not opposed to spending more on a steel tank, but I don't want to if I don't have to. Do all dive shops rent tanks? Maybe I can put my second tank purchase off till I know better what tank I want? How come a 3000 PSI standard fill would be a +? Is that for filling reasons at the shop? If I were to purchase a steel tank to go with the 80 aluminum that I have now,what size should it be?

Between a 95 nitrox steel, or a 100 nitrox aluminum which would be better to go with my 80 nitrox aluminum? Or maybe a 108 nitrox steel tank?

Thanks for the responses.

any tank can take air or nitrox or even 100% O2, its all about how you clean the tank at visual not the maker of the tank. afterall the Nitrox sticker is just that a sticker, its meaningless. the visual sticker on it however indicates what it was actually cleaned to. AL80's are fine in your area.

buoyancy- well given warm water diving you don't need a ton of weight in the first place given the thin suits, the discussion about 6#'s here and there is kind of a joke when your total is still only about 10#'s. it starts to matter when you are wearing a drysuit and have sometimes 45#'s or more, but you also have lots of reserve buoyancy if either the suit or bcd fails. in warm water AL80's are great, they are cheap, readily available, lots of rentals are AL80's so your familiar with the trim and weight that you need on vacation, etc... In cold water, dive shops are not as common so having your own tanks really starts to pay off and the ability to shed lead can really be a benefit.
 
Go back to the thread called " I've read 30 pages ". 6 threads back. All the numbers are there comparing AL 80's to new steels. You'll see the Worthington HP 100's are initially heavier out of the water, BUT have better buoyancy at dive's end, therefore you can drop 6.99 lbs. AL 80's are +4.4 lbs bouyany empty, Worthington's are -2.5 lbs. Difference = call it 7 lbs that you do not need to carry in lead. As a result, Worthington 100's are lighter wrs to the total weight you are carrying both at start of dive and at the end. But read the thread, it's all there...

Just to add in reference to Meesier 42's comment above, I'm in a drysuit and cold water, so dropping the 7# was helpful to me. I've read many times that AL 80's are best for warm water.
 
Go back to the thread called " I've read 30 pages ". 6 threads back. All the numbers are there comparing AL 80's to new steels. You'll see the Worthington HP 100's are initially heavier out of the water, BUT have better buoyancy at dive's end, therefore you can drop 6.99 lbs. AL 80's are +4.4 lbs bouyany empty, Worthington's are -2.5 lbs. Difference = call it 7 lbs that you do not need to carry in lead. As a result, Worthington 100's are lighter wrs to the total weight you are carrying both at start of dive and at the end. But read the thread, it's all there...

Just to add in reference to Meesier 42's comment above, I'm in a drysuit and cold water, so dropping the 7# was helpful to me. I've read many times that AL 80's are best for warm water.

I don't know anywhere, where I would actually want to use an AL 80...except that that they are easy to find deals on...perhaps in really warm fresh water..
 
If you have the money, get a HP100(3442) steel. If cash is poor get a used AL80 for about $75-$100. DON't get another NEW AL80!
 
the 3442 100 steel tanks are just sweet.

the only real reason I see to go with AL is that it's cheaper, but with some patience & hunting, you can score used 3442 steel tanks for a decent price. I've done it several times now.
 
any tank can take air or nitrox or even 100% O2, its all about how you clean the tank at visual not the maker of the tank. afterall the Nitrox sticker is just that a sticker, its meaningless. the visual sticker on it however indicates what it was actually cleaned to. AL80's are fine in your area.

buoyancy- well given warm water diving you don't need a ton of weight in the first place given the thin suits, the discussion about 6#'s here and there is kind of a joke when your total is still only about 10#'s. it starts to matter when you are wearing a drysuit and have sometimes 45#'s or more, but you also have lots of reserve buoyancy if either the suit or bcd fails. in warm water AL80's are great, they are cheap, readily available, lots of rentals are AL80's so your familiar with the trim and weight that you need on vacation, etc... In cold water, dive shops are not as common so having your own tanks really starts to pay off and the ability to shed lead can really be a benefit.

I was thinking that the tank had to be nitrox enabled, because on scuba.com the tanks they advertise either say nitrox usable up to 40% or nothing about nitrox. Thanks for the heads up.

I'm definitely going to buy used, the aluminum I have is in brand new condition, but I got it off craigslist. The 3442 100 steel is the tank a lot of divers choose?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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