Tank newb...1st stage question

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Robertcrockett

Contributor
Messages
291
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Location
Eleanor WV
# of dives
500 - 999
Tank newb here thinking of purchasing a HP 120. I run an Atomic Z2X with a yoke connection so I need to switch over to a Din. Should I just buy a new first stage (din) or should I get the semi-perm Din conversion kit and then buy a thread on yoke conversion so when I am not using my own tanks (such as airplane travel) i can more easy adapt to the rental tanks, since most of those seem to be yoke.....I have never actually seen a 1st stage fitted this way but it seems as if it would be bulky as hell.
OR
Should I just buy my steel tank in the LP variety. I thought the HP was smart because I could fill it to either high and low pressure as desired.

Sorry if it seems a silly question.....im just a great big ole newb trying to figure it all out.
I plan on using my tanks for lake diving and traveling back and forth to North Carolina/South Carolina wreck diving and Florida keys/spring systems diving. (traveling to these sites is done easily by car) If I make this purchase I plan on using this tank for EANx

Robert
 
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Have your first stage coverted to DIN, and purchase a Yoke adaptor. Or seeing as you'll already have the Yoke parts left over after the conversion, put them in a zip lock bag and toss them in your save a dive kit. Then when you are about to go on a trip where Yoke tanks will be the norm, have your shop switch it back to Yoke (or learn to do it yourself).
 
A new HP 120 (3442psi) should use a "200 bar" 5 thread din connection. This can be used with any din 1st stage and will take a $15 insert (should come with the valve) to accept a yoke 1st stage. So you don't really need to buy anything else to use your current reg. But I suggest you look toward another 1st & 2nd stage reg so you have a backup. Get that one in din with the adapter and you will be good to go no matter what kind of tank you run into.

A good backup beats the best warranty when it come to not losing dives due to equipment problems.
 
Have your first stage coverted to DIN, and purchase a Yoke adaptor. Or seeing as you'll already have the Yoke parts left over after the conversion, put them in a zip lock bag and toss them in your save a dive kit. Then when you are about to go on a trip where Yoke tanks will be the norm, have your shop switch it back to Yoke (or learn to do it yourself).

As was said if you switch over to DIN there is no need to buy the complete DIN to Yoke adapter. Just buy a Yoke nut and adapter:

NUT - 01-0052-00
ADAPTER - 01-0051-00

and use the other parts of the yoke assembly to make an adapter. Then you have the best of all worlds, DIN, Yoke, or adapter.

Not using the adapter is nice when on week long trips because it reduces the length of the connection but also because the DM often unscrew the wrong parts.

However, much of this is moot because 3442psi cylinders do not require DIN. And as was also said the valve you want to get is a "Pro" valve which has the insert for yoke.
 
Why do you need to switch to DIN? Your Z2X should have a 3500 psi yoke. It certainly looks like it is stout enough. Try your user manual if it isn't embossed on the yoke.

If you have a 3500 psi yoke and the HP120 will only go to 3442 PSI, you are good to go.

When you buy the tank, make sure you get a Pro valve or similar that has a removable ring so you can change the valve between yoke and 200 bar DIR. Then, if you really want to convert your regulator, the valve is adaptable.

With DIN or yoke, you need both feet on the same side of the river. Either everything you own is DIN or everything is yoke. Otherwise, its a PITA.

Richard
 
Get the DIN conversion and get yourself a yoke adapter for the regulator. Then forget the original yoke hardware. It'll probably cost you about $100 to convert, but it's well worth it.

A danger of using a yoke on a DIN tank is if the 3442psi tank has been sitting in the sun for a while and the pressure has crept up close to 4000psi. That will overstress the yoke, but the DIN fitting can take it easily.

Your choice. I'll never own a yoke reg!
 
Steel tanks are nice. However I'd do more diving before spending the farm on expensive Steel tanks. Most folks can get 60 minutes out of an Al80 under just about any profile. If you are diving Eanx at 90' flat profiles a Steel 100 is nice to have to push those NDL's.

If you purchase a HP 120, you will have plenty of air for your first dive, but then only enough air to do a short second dive. You did not bother to provide any details as to WHY you need a S120 tank, SAC rates, profiles, etc.

For newbie air hogs, HP big steel tanks seem like the cat's meow. But before you buy the farm, you likely should work on air consumption, and see where you end up. 120's are overkill for most divers, even if too much air is never a bad thing!

You also need to look at the HP130's if you want to go big. 120's have some strange characteristics that seem to make them less popular, but I can not remember what those are off the top of my head.
 
Get the DIN conversion and get yourself a yoke adapter for the regulator. Then forget the original yoke hardware. It'll probably cost you about $100 to convert, but it's well worth it.

A danger of using a yoke on a DIN tank is if the 3442psi tank has been sitting in the sun for a while and the pressure has crept up close to 4000psi. That will overstress the yoke, but the DIN fitting can take it easily.

Your choice. I'll never own a yoke reg!

The above is crapola ... 4000 psi will not over stress the yoke. Perhaps if the yoke was circa 60-70s. But in this case the yoke is a modern yoke.

Not saying that you want to do this all the time (just like you do not want to overfill a cylinder all the time).
 
Tank newb here thinking of purchasing a HP 120. I run an Atomic Z2X with a yoke connection so I need to switch over to a Din. Should I just buy a new first stage (din) or should I get the semi-perm Din conversion kit and then buy a thread on yoke conversion so when I am not using my own tanks (such as airplane travel) i can more easy adapt to the rental tanks, since most of those seem to be yoke.....I have never actually seen a 1st stage fitted this way but it seems as if it would be bulky as hell.
OR
Should I just buy my steel tank in the LP variety. I thought the HP was smart because I could fill it to either high and low pressure as desired.

Sorry if it seems a silly question.....im just a great big ole newb trying to figure it all out.
I plan on using my tanks for lake diving and traveling back and forth to North Carolina/South Carolina wreck diving and Florida keys/spring systems diving. (traveling to these sites is done easily by car) If I make this purchase I plan on using this tank for EANx

Robert

I would not bother with any conversions and would just buy a new DIN 1st stage if you really need a DIN. You can get a new Zeagle 1st stage for around 250 USD

This way you will have a spare 1st stage that you can use for a pony bottle for example if you switch your octo there. Conversion + adapter would probably cost you around 150 with labour at least (I was quoted at 200 in one of the shops in Toronto)
The 1 stage with a DIN adapter is not really that bulky, I used one for a year before I bought my own tanks with Pro DIN connector, If you position the tank correctly it will not be hitting your head though it depends upon the reg (I use Zeagle Flathead)
 

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