Taking over/under shots

[Coll]

I love those shots that are part over water and part underwater, what I'm wondering is -- how do you take them? Is it possible to do with a simple set up like mine (Canon SD-630 and that's it)? Or do you need a fancy shmancy rig? Also, do you have to have talent at photography? I'm hoping no, so I can get some!

 

[Nemrod]

You need an ultra wide angle with as large a diameter dome port as possible.

This little domed lens is barely big enough to occasionally get a good split. Bigger would be better.

N

 

[Larry C]

The lens has to work wet or dry. My Sea & Sea only works wet. I can't take pictures in air with it. Only one I know of is the Inon WA Dome set-up shown in Nemrod's post that works on a P&S. Maybe someone else has alternatives they can tell us about.

 

[vladimir]

I have a relatively fancy-shmancy rig (Nikon D70, 10.5mm lens, Subal housing and fisheye dome port) and I have had very limited success at this. One of the challenges is the disparity in exposure between the "over" scene and the "under" scene. Nemrod's excellent shot above takes advantage of the shade, I think, to combat the problem. I have read that other photographers use a split diopter to shade the "over" scene. I wish I knew where to buy one. And then you have to get the waterline to match the diopter line, which is probably a matter of a little luck and a lot of attempts.

Another challenge is water droplets on the dome. The use of Rain-X has been debated quite a bit. I have a glass dome, but a lot of domes are acrylic, and might not react well to it. I just dunk my dome before shooting and the water doesn't form droplets, for the most part.

Another difficulty is steadying yourself at the surface. Underwater you have no problems remaining relatively motionless, hopefully, but afloat on the surface it's not quite as easy.

 

[Katamuki]

I can tell you one thing to look out for.....

If you are taking a picture of a female in a split photo, the lower half is magnified quite a bit in size in relation to the out-of-water half... not a good combination when being reviewed!

 

[kidsdream]

A bigger dome is most helpful as the challenge of being stable in the water column is large if you are freely swimming. The ideal situation to learn would be in a sandy area where you can stand.

To help balance the exposure (without a split diopter) is to slightly underexpose the shot and then use a lot of strobe power, with the strobes being totally submerged.

Most of all you need perfect weather with minimal surface action.

One of the challenges is the disparity in exposure between the "over" scene and the "under" scene. Nemrod's excellent shot above takes advantage of the shade, I think, to combat the problem. I have read that other photographers use a split diopter to shade the "over" scene. I wish I knew where to buy one. And then you have to get the waterline to match the diopter line, which is probably a matter of a little luck and a lot of attempts.

Another challenge is water droplets on the dome. The use of Rain-X has been debated quite a bit. I have a glass dome, but a lot of domes are acrylic, and might not react well to it. I just dunk my dome before shooting and the water doesn't form droplets, for the most part.

Another difficulty is steadying yourself at the surface. Underwater you have no problems remaining relatively motionless, hopefully, but afloat on the surface it's not quite as easy.

 

[Mariozi]

Yeah the bigger the dome the better specially for pics made in the sea.
The dome also corrects some of the lady-with-fancy-shmancy-underparts effects.

Shot with Sea&Sea's Fisheye Dome Port at 4-5pm local time... that's why the sea is so dark.