Taking it to the next level

[scubabum2]

I currently shoot UW with an Oly C-5050 on manual settings, an Ikelite housing, a spotting light and two Sea & Sea YS90DX's. One strobe is slave and the other is manually connected to the housing via fiber optic cable and velcro. It works great sometimes but other times the camera and strobes don't sync well. The sync issue is mainly problematic with non-macro pictures. I also have problems shooting wide angle with an Inon lens, as large borders areas of the picture look wavy.

To eliminate these problems, I am toying with upgrading to a Nikon D200 or comparable with a housing where I can directly connect the strobe to the camera and where the camera syncs better with wide angle lenses. I also wonder if I should use a second spotting light (currently a Suprema Ubeam 44) with whatever setup for better subject focus and perhaps better sync'd flash.

I know this poses several naive questions, so let me narrow it down.

1) Do you recommend upgrading from a point & shoot to an SLR to improve your pictures, shoot wide angle and get more dependability from your strobes?

2) Does a second spot light help you get better pictures?

Thanks, Mark

 

[Mo2vation]

I currently shoot UW with an Oly C-5050 on manual settings, an Ikelite housing, a spotting light and two Sea & Sea YS90DX's. One strobe is slave and the other is manually connected to the housing via fiber optic cable and velcro. It works great sometimes but other times the camera and strobes don't sync well. The sync issue is mainly problematic with non-macro pictures. I also have problems shooting wide angle with an Inon lens, as large borders areas of the picture look wavy.

To eliminate these problems, I am toying with upgrading to a Nikon D200 or comparable with a housing where I can directly connect the strobe to the camera and where the camera syncs better with wide angle lenses. I also wonder if I should use a second spotting light (currently a Suprema Ubeam 44) with whatever setup for better subject focus and perhaps better sync'd flash.

I know this poses several naive questions, so let me narrow it down.

1) Do you recommend upgrading from a point & shoot to an SLR to improve your pictures, shoot wide angle and get more dependability from your strobes?

2) Does a second spot light help you get better pictures?

Thanks, Mark

Great stuff here on the 5050, and moving to DSLR. Splashdown Divers

I'm not quite sure of your measure of success with this endeavor. You mention moving to a DSLR to "improve your pictures." At what point would you consider the move a success?

Most people when they first move to a DSLR have lots to learn all over again. So there is this inevitable space shortly after the move to a new rig when all that was familiar with your 5050 (which I still maintain is the most versatile UW shooting system ever devised) is tossed out the window, and a you need to learn how to translate what you're seeing through a new rig again.

Its discouraging at first - all that cash, all those plans, all that hope, only to be starting over again in a sense.

My point is this: don't put too much responsibility on the camera. A simple change in rigs won't transform your shots overnight from what you are today (whatever that is) to some NatGeo monstah. Its a big step. And, as anyone who's made the step can tell you, that first step is a very, very slippery slope.

It will come around with a DSLR, but it will take time. I've never regretted making the move.

Lets talk more about what you're looking to achieve.


---
Ken

 

[alcina]

Ken's got some good starting stuff there. You can also check out the Sticky for some thoughts on moving from compacts to DSLRs - follow the Pink Link in my signature.

For your two specific questions:
1 - strobes should work fine with compact camera systems. I've used Ike and Inon strobes with a remote sensor (Ike) and fibre optic cables (Inon) with no problems with my Canon rigs and my Olympus 5050. Didn't matter if I was shooting wide angle or macro or something in-between. My strobes worked. I shoot in manual - did with my compacts, do with my DSLR.

I didn't find problems with my wide angle and the 5050, either.

Are you really talking "synch" as in it doesn't fire correctly or are you talking about lighting the scene properly?

Improve my photos? Maybe, but it's way more about technique than gear. Gear just makes life easier or harder mostly. Every bit of gear - compact or dslr - has good points and not so good points. It's learning to work with your gear and build on its strengths that improves your photos.

2 - how about getting a really good one? I don't think two are better than one - you're only needing it to show the camera what to focus on.

 

[scubabum2]

Thanks for the comments. What I would consider an improvement would be just to have strobes that flashed consistently when the shutter button is pressed and to be able to shoot wide angle without the waviness. I'm talking equipment incompatibilities, versus photographic technique. I'm very happy with the quality of my pictures when the equipment is working correctly.

I also get a single orange and purple line on some of my photos with the 6 or 7 C-5050's that I've owned. Considering that the price of these cameras has been averaging around $200 (up from the low 100's) on ebay, I think I've answered my own question. I'm taking the Oly along as a backup on future dive trips.

 

[scubaguy655]

I have used the 5050 for several years and have not had the problems that you mention. The only difference I can see between our rigs is that I use optical cables with dual Inon D-180 strobes and Oly housing.

Unless I am shooting something geometrically uniform (handrail on a wreck, etc.) I do not have any problems with the WAL. As a matter of fact, I almost never dive without it.

I can't make any suggestions on the move to DSLR as I have no experience; however, several good comments have been posted above.

Good luck and I will be interested in hearing feedback after you make the change.