Suunto D9 Self Battery Change

[kancho]

I just had a question. I bought the energizer version of 2450 battery. The battery has a bottom(wide) and top (narrow relatively speaking). The original stock toshiba looks like the height of the bottom and the top are pretty much the same. The energizer (i also looked at the duracell) THe base his bigger than the top. Does that matter. I did put it in and it worked but I am uncertain that at high pressure it will not leak because of the different ratio than the original. Anyone else has that problem. I can't seem to find toshiba 2450 batteries here.

 

[netdiver]

The battery I replaced and the one I replaced it with had the "hat" profile with the base more narrow than the top. The reports are that some of those batteries without the narrowed base don't allow the battery to seat low enough for the back to screw into the appropriate depth.

The danger lies in using a battery without the narrow base not in using one with it.

 

[david_ffm]

Sansky, The battery has been going strong for over a year now with no problems at all. I honestly can't believe how easy it was to change, and even though the o-ring was recycled no issues. You can see the whole "how to" Here.

Many thanks for the detailed photos. I was reassured to see that you also have slight discolouration on the underside of the battery cover (where the red stripe is) around the edge. I wonder what causes that?

One other thought: here a "replacement kit" consists of a battery and an o-ring and costs about €12-14. I can buy two CR2450 Lithium Duracell batteries for around €2,50 (these have at least the correct external casing form, not sure about capacity or other electrical properties). The old o-ring also looks brand new as does the spare from the last replacement (when I bought the kit). So my question is where does the extra money go in the replacement kit and is it worth getting? Surely the o-ring can't cost €10 or more! I haven't found any sources for just o-rings (anybody know of some?!).
Obviously there is the school of thought and argument that says rather pay the extra bit than take a risk but I would like to understand if there really is a technical justification for this and if so what it is. Also the replacement battery in the expensive kit only lasted about 18 months so somehow I doubt the Duracell would be a lot worse (maybe even better).
I'm tending toward the duracell / recycle o-ring version this time.
Many thanks for any thoughts on this issue!

 

[cleomagic]

Be sure to check the back for tightness every few dives after changing the battery. Otherwise, the back may unscrew just a bit every dive until the back comes off and the watch floods. I had this happen to me after about 10 or 11 dives after changing the battery. I checked it very closely after the first couple of dives, then forgot about it until the light went out and I could see water sloshing around inside the case on a night dive. Thank goodness I dive with a backup computer "just in case". The back of the watch was still securely pressed between the watch and my wetsuit. They are also no longer making in innards on the D9 .... so it's a pricy fix if it can be fixed at all.

 

[fognet]

My D9 has served me well over the past few years, but unfortunately the battery is just about toast. To further throw a wrench into things, I have a dive coming up and don't think I will be able to get the watch to Aqualung in time to have it back for the dive. So the question of the day is has anyone opened up a D9 themselves to change the battery? What kind of battery does it take? I am usually not afraid in the least to open up a computer and change the battery, I've done it hundreds of times on many non user changeable computers. The problem I have is that none of those computers were my only computer (like my D9 is now), and none of them were as expensive as the D9. I would hate to flood the thing, I could just go with gauges if my computer is not back, but I'm such a tinkerer I would love to take care of this myself. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[fognet]

Nope, not that I recall. We did have the CR2450 listed with the D9 and some other computers in the title but that's all I remember seeing.... But we do have a lot of items... I may well have missed it... But I don't think I did.

I noticed you was trying to find the o-ring size for Suunto D9. According to Suunto The o-ring is the same size as for there many other computers. Here is a copy of the email sent from them:
Dear xx@xxxxx.com Suunto Customer,
Hi there.
Thank you for waiting on this email.
I just got a response from our Spare Parts Department. Unfortunately, they do not have O-ring that they can measure the diameter. However, they did say that it is the same O-ring for these following devices;
- D9
- DX
- D9tx
- D4i
- D4i Novo
- D6i
- D6i Novo
- Vytec
- Vytec DS
- Vyper Novo
- Vyper Air
- HelO2
I am so sorry if we could not provide the exact measurement. This is the best information I could give out. I hope this would help a little.
Thank you for your patience and understanding.

If this is true then the 026 BUNA N 70D will work.

 

[DIVEWATCHDOCTOR]

Fognet:

Whoever gave you that info concerning the Oring for the D4, D6, D9, DX, etc., being the same, doesn't have the faintest idea of what he is saying. Each of those Suunto computers uses a different Oring size (all metric, by the way). Furthermore, the DX O ring is not even an Oring in the sense that is not even circular in shape. See attached a picture. We replace the battery to all Suunto dive computer and waterproof each of them using a Bergeon swiss pressure chamber. Check our website: www.divewatchdoctor.com

 

[KrisT123]

/edit like an idiot I meant to stick this in the D6 thread, not the D9 thread! Can't find a way to delete the post and wont double post so here it stays

Just to bump an old thread, I fancied buying some batteries and o-rings as spares. I couldn't get conclusive answers to the o-ring size for my D6i so I took it apart. (I'd rather buy orings and batteries direct)

The Width is 1.2mm
The I.D is 37.5mm
The O.D is 40mm installed (approximate)

A quick scan and it appears this is the same as someone else measured for the D9.

I can't locate an o-ring with these measurements though...but I haven't looked to hard yet.

Suunto used to recommend an imperial 029 o-ring on lots of the older computers which is approx 37.82mm ID 1.78mm Width. Now the I.D is almost identical and I'm sure would make no practicale differnce. The width however is a significant difference. I may purchase one to compare regardless.


I may buy one of these eBay kits ( or if anyone in Aus has a spare to chuck my way left over PM me) and see if the dimensions match OEM or if they are a close fitting alternative)

In relation to the guide....I have the following points to mention:

• O-ring is definitely lubed from factory. Some people say not to, but mine has never been opened before and was lubed. I cleaned it off and used some christo lube, but guess any silicone grease will do.

• There's no need to remove the strap to change the battery. My t5 fitted without issue leaving the strap on.

• The screws have blue thread-lock on them from factory. I applied a VERY small amount of fresh thread lock on re-assembly.

 

[DIVEWATCHDOCTOR]

The Oring for the Suunto D6i is the same as for the Suunto D6 = 1.2mm (cs) x 40 mm(ID).

 

[Scubagaskets]

Hi there. My O-ring manufacturing company Europeseals after identification of the oring used in suunto computers found out the following

You can find all of my products at www.scubagaskets.com and sepcially for suunto
O-rings for scuba diving - EPDM - NBR - VITON - POLYURETHANE
For any further questions i am at your disposal