Suggestions on good quality cold water BCDs

[Radicice]

Hello,

I recently got certified with PADI, I am looking at purchasing my own BCD now, but i'm not sure what brands to look at for a quality BCD that works well in cold water. I live in Ontario Canada. Are there any particular qualities I am to look for? I've had Zeagel BCDs suggested as good for cold water but after reading further into them, the reviews seem to be mixed on them. The more I read up on them the more I get confused with conflicting reviews about them. If anyone would be so kind as to suggest a brand or model to look for i'd appreciate that greatly.

Radic

 

[fisheater]

I know I'll be flamed/blamed for knee-jerk, stereotypical SB response on this, but I firmly believe that most cold water divers will be best served with a steel backplate and wing set up.

It will require less overall ballast, provide better trim and hydrodynamics and last longer.

What you won't (likely) be able to do is to walk into a LDS and try one on. This, it requires a substantial lead of faith for a newbie.

Find some dedicated local divers who hit the water every month and ask what they use and recommend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

 

[mathauck0814]

Your BCD does not know how cold or warm the water is and almost nothing in its engineering will react differently as you take it from one extreme to the other.

The important thing is to know that because the water is colder you will want to wear thicker exposure suits to stay warm and that thicker exposure suits generally mean more lead to offset the buoyancy of the suit. The BCD needs to have enough lift to "compensate" for that lead.

The only thing I'd stay away from is anything labelled "travel" or some of the smaller wings (<30lbs) if you're going that route.

Otherwise, pretty much any BCD will get the job done.

 

[lucca brassi]

Dropping divers on Vimeo BCD vs WING ...... ah joke ;-))

 

[TSandM]

For diving cold water, your total ballast requirement is going to be much higher than in the tropics. Since most of us find cold water gear a bit of a PITA to carry and to walk in, minimizing the total weight of the rig is a nice thing to do. Also, when you have to carry so much lead, where you put it makes a big difference in how well you balance and in what attitude in the water.

You want to minimize padding and air-trapping in a BC, because those things require lead. This immediately rules out heavily padded BCs and BCs with improbably large, or bungied bladders.

You want to put weight up on your shoulders, so you don't end up feet-down all the time. This means a BC with trim pockets up fairly high, one with removable cambands to which you can attach weight pockets, or a backplate.

You want to use steel tanks, because you have to carry lead to sink aluminum ones.

An awful lot of avid cold water divers eventually settle on a steel backplate with about a 32 to 40 pound wing, simply because it's a setup that works very well in cold water. May as well buy your second BC first . . .

 

[GrumpyOldGuy]

I have owned Zeagle BCD's and there were very good for a traditional BCD. Well made, good design. The integrated weight system is outstanding I never had an issue diving cold water. Lifting the rig loaded with a tank and lead was a job, but careful planning minimized this issue.

I did end up selling it. The model (Ranger) was designed for cold water divers and simply too big and bulky for travel. They make a travel BCD (Stiletto), but then you have 2 very expensive BCD's. I ended up with BP/W (actually 2 but I stash one in LA) and they are simpler, cheaper, smaller and worked for all my diving from 40F winter lakes to tropics.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

I'll add to the BP/W camp for a quality cold water BCD.
Plates are stainless and will never wear out. Some of the new wings are far superior in quality to any jacket or back inflate bladder out there.
BP/W are infinitely customizable and also will fit you no matter how much weight you gain or lose.
The webbing is cheap to replace if it gets frayed or cut.

Many of the so called cold water BCD's are way too bulky and have a rediculous amount of lift which if weighted properly you will never use and it will hamper rather than help anything.
I think they do that for the macho testosterone factor - you know, the bigger the badder, some even have artificially corroded looking D-rings to make them look "cool" and have tribal tattoo design stitching on them.

I'm not a fan of anything weight integrated because I think it better to separate balast weight from the dive rig, and most or maybe all new BCD styles are weight integrated.

If you decide to go with a BP/W (after all your research of course) then just keep in mind that your LDS will be very angry with you for 'getting converted by those evil internet people' and they will be very pissed that they got screwed out of another sale.

You could probably get a whole BP/W unit for under $600, I've seen deals for around $399.
But get one with a really good wing.
I like Oxycheq.

A "cold water" BCD will probably retail for $700 to $800 or more.

 

[boat sju]

I dive a Zeagle Scout but I put a 35# bladder on it so it's fine with both my drysuit and in warm water. It travels well also.

 

[Radicice]

I've been read some more about the BCD and the BP/W, it seems to me since I am taller that the BP/W would make the dive more comfortable. Are there any brands to stay away from with regards to the back plate or wings? Anything specific I should look for in them?

 

[MKrauter]

I will give a +1 for a bp/w. particularly a DSS plate. My sole reason is that, with an AL80 and drysuit, I only have 6lb of lead on my belt, the rest of the weight is on my plate (6lb plate +8.1lb add on). Very streamlined and comfortable when you have it on.

Also, if you decide not to buy DSS, I'd still give Tobin, the owner a call. I called when I was doing my research and his advice and comments made me think of aspects I wouldn't otherwise have thought of.