Strobes for dummies

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djanni

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Messages
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Location
Cozumel, MX
# of dives
500 - 999
Opinions appreciated!

I have a C8080 & pt-023 housing. I'm looking for the easiest strobe set up possible. Easy to use and easy on a photographer wannabe. Point and shot - that's what I'm looking for. I'm seriously considering the Inon D200Wn and using it in S-TTL mode. That seems like the simpliest setup I've come across.

If I become an advanced dummy, I'll already have the TTL connector and someday I might upgrade to a DSLR.

Thx, Don
 
I prefer a hardwired TTL solution - I bought a replacement bulkhead here http://www.heinrichsweikamp.net and use it with a Sea & Sea YS 90 . If you e-mail Matthias he will offer you advice .

I have no experience with S-TTL , it may be a better solution but someone else will jump in here I'm sure .
 
Hi Don,

The D2000, as you've probably figured out already, is most versatile. Though at this point I'm as new to all this as you, I do have a DSLR I may bring to the water in the future and I wanted to be ready! Even if I never upgrade, it's a great strobe.
 
if you want ttl I believe the only way with your olympus is with an ikelite housing/ike strobes(what I use) or what AndyT wrote..In my opinion you should have gotten the ike housing instead..comes set up for ttl and you can grow with it..
 
Don,

I ain't no pro. I'm currently shooting an Oly SP350 (subject on another thread) After quite a bit of soul searching, etc. I ended up getting a Sealife 960D external flash/strobe online for about $266. It has internal multiple internal settings for use with almost all digital cameras. Maybe somewhere down the line I'll jump into DTTL...but for me this seemed offer most of what I needed for the leastest. Just an alternative for you to consider.

Regards,
 
oly5050user:
if you want ttl I believe the only way with your olympus is with an ikelite housing/ike strobes(what I use) or what AndyT wrote..In my opinion you should have gotten the ike housing instead..comes set up for ttl and you can grow with it..
=============================
I gotta agree. But since you already have the Oly housing (and presumably don't want to replace it with an Ike) your choices are more limited.

Pretty hard to beat the Ikelite housing and DS 125 with the built in TTL.

'Slogger
 
Don Janni:
Opinions appreciated!

I have a C8080 & pt-023 housing. I'm looking for the easiest strobe set up possible. Easy to use and easy on a photographer wannabe. Point and shot - that's what I'm looking for. I'm seriously considering the Inon D200Wn and using it in S-TTL mode. That seems like the simpliest setup I've come across.

If I become an advanced dummy, I'll already have the TTL connector and someday I might upgrade to a DSLR.

Thx, Don

I can not comment on the S-TTL other than to say it works by measuring the camera's preflash, so you have to be able to fire your flash inside the housing. I'm also guessing that if you block the on camera flash it MAY have problems using the preflash, and blocking the in camera flash is exactly what you would want to do to prevent backscatter.

However the Inon D2000 seems like a very nice flash, and those who do own one have posted good reviews. It has something like 13 manual settings, and has an auto setting as well.

Maybe someone who ones one will post their impressions on the S-TTL, and auto setting, but hey, manual works as well...

Unfortunately you MIGHT actually have to learn something about photography to use this effectively... I would suggest that learning photography is a good thing for anyone that wants good shots.
 
Cudabait:
Don,

I ain't no pro. I'm currently shooting an Oly SP350 (subject on another thread) After quite a bit of soul searching, etc. I ended up getting a Sealife 960D external flash/strobe online for about $266. It has internal multiple internal settings for use with almost all digital cameras. Maybe somewhere down the line I'll jump into DTTL...but for me this seemed offer most of what I needed for the leastest. Just an alternative for you to consider.

Regards,

Thx Cudabait... I've looked at the strobe and sure haven't ruled it out.


RonFrank:
I can not comment on the S-TTL other than to say it works by measuring the camera's preflash, so you have to be able to fire your flash inside the housing. I'm also guessing that if you block the on camera flash it MAY have problems using the preflash, and blocking the in camera flash is exactly what you would want to do to prevent backscatter.

However the Inon D2000 seems like a very nice flash, and those who do own one have posted good reviews. It has something like 13 manual settings, and has an auto setting as well.

Maybe someone who ones one will post their impressions on the S-TTL, and auto setting, but hey, manual works as well...

Unfortunately you MIGHT actually have to learn something about photography to use this effectively... I would suggest that learning photography is a good thing for anyone that wants good shots.

Thx Ron: I'm actually not a novice. I used to know my way around just about anything with Canon written on it but it's been a long long time and photography underwater is totally new.

I'm not looking to be a pro by any stretch of the imagination. What I want is the confidence that the results I get with underwater photography is due to my skill level and not due to the equipment I use.
 
I have the D-180 which is the predecessor to the D2000. I have no complaints about the product.

The main difference between the D2000 and the D2000S is the focus light on the D2000. That is a major feature and IMHO you should get the D2000. That focus light greatly assists the camera to focus in dark locations as well as night dives. I believe Inon is the only strobe with a built in focus light and it was what swayed me to it versus the Sea & Sea.

Be aware the fiber optic cable kit does not usually come with the strobe and has to be purchased seperately. It runs around $100. You have to have it unless you are using the strobe as a slave to another external strobe. Inon uses a dark patch of film to cover the cameras strobe which both suppresses it and converts it to infra-red then transmits it via the fiber optic cable to fire the strobe. It works well. I use both my manual setting on "full" for more distant shots and my auto settings for the macro shots. It's not true TTL like a hard wired strobe but close.

You may also want to get the diffuser for the strobe.
 
What Gilligan said about the focus light is right - the Oly cameras are notoriously bad at focusing in low light conditions . I'm going to get the S&S YS 110 when it is finally released which has a built in focus light .
 

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