Strobe set-up opinions wanted

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sunkmail

Contributor
Messages
256
Reaction score
13
Location
North Vancouver, BC, Canada
# of dives
200 - 499
Hi Everyone!

I recently replaced my old point and shoot with a S95 (Yes, I know it is still a point and shoot), Ikelite housing, Strobe, and now, a focus light.
(The strobe and camera were bought at the same time, and I have done a few dives with that set-up before deciding that I need a focus light for my local waters.)


Some random details to help make sense of my set-up:

I ordered a Slide connector & flex arm with the Fantasea Nano Focus light, and made a tray extension with some marine Aluminum.

When received, I was pleasantly surprised that the slide connector actually included 2 connectors, one threaded, and one without mounting threads. As it happened, the Strobe arm that came with my set-up has a couple of threaded holes for mounting a lens holder that are the same size and spacing. (In the pics, you can see the second connector attached with overly long screws.)

The other change I have made from stock was to add another mounting hole in the tray portion to allow my Ikelite case (3" centred mounting) to attach properly.

I only just received my Focus light and have not had a chance to dive the current configuration yet.

I don't have the $$ for a second strobe at the moment


My Current Set-up:

To start off simple, I just added the new parts on the right side, opposite the strobe.

6044980406_624855e375.jpg 6044979716_9a4b5eceec.jpg 6044981158_b5dc1d54d5.jpg 6044431953_1166228184.jpg

My Questions:

1) Since the flex arm is able to get in many more positions than the solid mount of the strobe, would switching the strobe to the flex arm be a good idea?

2) Is there any reason why people with a single strobe always seem to have the strobe on the left?

3) Should I turn the camera case around on the mount, so the strobe is still on the left, but mounted to the flex arm, and the focus on the more solid arm? (Sorta combining 1 & 2)

4) For future expansion, I'm thinking I could get another (shorter/thinner?) flex arm to attach the focus light to the 'second' connector on the solid arm, and attach a second strobe to the existing mounts. Seem reasonable?

5) The Nano Focus light has an auto shut-off feature to not have the focus light's beam captured in the image. Since I only have 1 strobe, would you recommend 'disabling' the shut-off feature to use as a pseudo-fill light?
(I know how to disable the function without damaging the light.)

All suggestions & Critiques welcome.

Oh, and for those interested, here are some pics from the first dive I did with my S95 and single strobe.

Thanks!!
 
the nano light is not nearly bright enough to act as a fill light. I don't even know why they have that auto off feature as I couldn't imagine it creating a hot-spot.
 
In no particular order
Single strobe on the left, since most people (70%) are dominant right eye and a shadow on the right to them is more pleasing.The Nano is useless for serious focus beam use. Flex arms are really much more useful than fixed arms. I would definitely have the strobe adjustable and the nano on the fixed side.
Bill
 
the nano light is not nearly bright enough to act as a fill light. I don't even know why they have that auto off feature as I couldn't imagine it creating a hot-spot.

Those were my thoughts too. (The auto-off feature) - It's been disabled already, but I can convert it back in a few seconds if I need to.

In no particular order
Single strobe on the left, since most people (70%) are dominant right eye and a shadow on the right to them is more pleasing.The Nano is useless for serious focus beam use. Flex arms are really much more useful than fixed arms. I would definitely have the strobe adjustable and the nano on the fixed side.
Bill

Thanks Bill. I figured there was a reason for the left side strobe, but didn't think to link it to a dominant eye. I was planning on the side swap prior to posting this thread - Your comments have solidified that plan. :)

As for the brightness, I think time will tell. I 'almost' have enough light on many shallow (50' or less) shots, and virtually all my shots are very short distances due to local conditions. I think it may be enough - Well, I hope it is.

What would be a suggestion for the next step up in price on a decent focus light, that is rated to at least 200'?
 
You do know Sunkmail that underwater photography is going to cost more that your rebreather habbit, right?
:wink:

1) Since the flex arm is able to get in many more positions than the solid mount of the strobe, would switching the strobe to the flex arm be a good idea? :wink:

a) having the strobe on a flexible arm allows for various strobe positions, especially those hard to get spots. I have a two piece arm (one strobe), 8" and 5" sections so i can put the strobe wherever I want it and it is great for getting pics of octos in their dens where you have limited viewing access:D


2) Is there any reason why people with a single strobe always seem to have the strobe on the left?

a) I have my strobe attached on the left however I position it above the camera or on the right. I hold the camera with my left hand and do all adjustments with my right. Just me, personal preference though the subject location determines strobe position.

3) Should I turn the camera case around on the mount, so the strobe is still on the left, but mounted to the flex arm, and the focus on the more solid arm? (Sorta combining 1 & 2)
a) see above

4) For future expansion, I'm thinking I could get another (shorter/thinner?) flex arm to attach the focus light to the 'second' connector on the solid arm, and attach a second strobe to the existing mounts. Seem reasonable?

a) I personally dont light the flex arms due to limited range of motion (in my experience) and would suggest getting a some nice arms from Ikelite or Ultralight that have a focus light attachment on them which will also allow for adding a second strobe later. Or do what I do, I just use my dive light to light up a subject when focusing. Being that it has the goodman handle it is not in the way.

5) The Nano Focus light has an auto shut-off feature to not have the focus light's beam captured in the image. Since I only have 1 strobe, would you recommend 'disabling' the shut-off feature to use as a pseudo-fill light?
(I know how to disable the function without damaging the light.)

a) like the others have mentioned, the focus light is not big enough for a fill light but your can light should be. I have the 21W HID focusable light head which does nicely when needed.


Have fun and you may have to sell that rebreather to support your photography habbit :wink:

In your pictures I like the longhorn crabs in the sponges, cool.
 
I made the changes I mentioned :
110825-untitled-0001.jpg110825-untitled-0002.jpg

This set-up is far easier to use, and allows much more freedom with creativity than how it was originally set-up!

I did try disabling the focus light auto-shutoff. You were right, it is not powerful enough to be noticed... I think I will re-enable the feature to remove the possibility of increased backscatter.


Here is a link to the pictures I took on my first dive with the new set-up.

Some of my particular favourites: (For those that don't want to look through the entire album)

110818-Kelvin-0055.jpg110818-Kelvin-0092.jpg110818-Kelvin-0026.jpg

The last one has a Sea Spider in it - I didn't even notice it until I downloaded the pic!

I'm hoping for some opinions and thoughts on what people like (from anywhere in the album, not just these 3) - I'm really wanting to improve my photo skills.

Thanks!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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