Star Dancer Captain's Logs

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain’s Report September 11 – 21, 2012

Heavy drops of rain fill the crater-sized holes on the road in from the airport to town. The driver has to drive off the road just to avoid the bigger hole because his car’s shock absorbs have been long past gone. Ominous grey clouds run through the crescent shape valley, every river swells up, emptying into Milne Bay turning the salty sea into the color of chocolate milk. Bare footed villagers continue their daily routines, rain soaked hair sticking to their brow and cheek with to saturated clothes clinging to their bodies find shelter under a rudimentary built sago palm building waiting out the newest down pour. Strangely enough the rains seem to stop on the day of the charter and a haze builds over Milne Bay. Some guests have already arrived early to sample a taste of Papua New Guinea before the charter. Alotau town rests at the foot of cascading clouded mountains. During the day the town is at it’s busiest. Like a scene out of an old western movie, the town is one road cut in two with villagers walking on each side of the road moving from tiny store to tiny store to stock up on goods before it’s time to find a transport truck acting as a stagecoach to take then through the jungle on a dirt road that has been worn down with grooves for each set of tires to run. No saloons with piano playing hosts although tradesmen and people with from far lands seek their fame and fortune on the cracked streets, the spirit of the wild west is alive here.

Waves lap up the concrete block foundation at Driftwood resort. The gazebo style dock is with the paint chipping away is made firm by the tree logs trust into the fine-grained sand. Looking past the dock is the first glimpse of Milne Bay. Able to see over the bay, smoke rises out of the territory each signifying another settlement. Right off the dock is Star Dancer, 120 feet long clad in white and blue running the length of the vessel. The bow of the yacht turns upward in a silent stand of attention ready to bring forth a charter of memories. The air is light and moist, a cool breeze puts the Dancer flag dancing at the stern of the boat. A welcomed sensation to beat some of the high afternoon tropical heat. The guests hear the firing of the engines, first one then followed by the next. We pull away from the submerged mooring and bid Alotau good-bye as we leave her at our stern. The recent rains brought run off that has made the bay a light brown. Star Dancer cuts the top layer of water as we cruise outside of the bay the water turns from brown to green then to a dark blue. We are out on the open ocean again. Heading to our first night’s rest area gives our guests a chance to breath after a long trip to Papua New Guinea.

Blue, the light blue sky being revealed through the fading white clouds. Blue is the reflective waters that hold the darker hue. Between we are caught in all the spectrum of color when we take our first step over the side of the yacht into the sea. Purple leather corals hide white headshield slugs that wrap around each other in a tight mating ball. The cuttlefish flash a drab pattern of brown and tan over their back to elude predators. The white sand reflects the sun’s piercing rays. We part the leather corals to head for a solitary coral head. The coral stands 6 feet tall with small soft corals poking from the cracks. Circling over the top, two manta rays with wings wide effortlessly pass in a choreographed rhythm. The window like clarity of the water allows us to view from afar then passively move closer. A smaller ray has only a nub of a tail. Passing around the cleaning station, it hovers close to the bottom with its always-constant companion remora attached to its underbelly. We have a chance to sit for the entire 2 dives watching the rays. We head back to under the boat with more chances to look for creatures at the end of the dive.
The sun rides high and it is a welcomed sight with the rains that have been pushed back by the beaming sun. The wind is light and refreshing. The old wharf of Samarai allows us to dock easily and roam on land to experience life in Papua New Guinea for the first time. Adults and children mill about. Children shooting marbles and a few showing off their juggling skills with local seedpods they have found that have fallen off the trees. As the juggle they giggle, the giggling makes their skills diminish and the seed pod tumble to the ground. Our stroll is over and time to resume diving. Stonefish blend in with the rocky bottom with a shy octopus revealing itself only to come out of the hole it hung outside of. The pillars holding the pier become safe havens for endless shimmering baitfish entwining around the inner working. Like a train of scales the fish keep a constant movement. More cuttlefish group together and batfish wiggle their small tails through the structure. It has been awhile to have a full night sky and the stars beam down even brighter tonight. The midnight sea is calling for us to travel with little noise Star Dancer leaves the rustic wharf engulfed in the darkness of night.

Little China is the first gaps at the beauty of Milne Bay’s reef systems. Not short on radiance, at first glance your eyes are treated to a wealth of rich fish life and astounding coral configurations. The hard corals are the building blocks of the reef, which started eons ago, and have spread over a majority of the pinnacle. The upside down chandeliers of staghorn coral and intertwined plate corals hide the dotted sweetlips on the bottom while black and blue striped cleaner wrasses wait for powder blue surgeon fish to rest motionless on top and extend their gill plates for the fish to clean. The mild current filters over the top of the bhommie and the majority of life dwells right at the ridge in front of the yacht. Dog Toothed Tuna along with Spanish Mackerel parallel the ridge right on the outer limits of the swarm of fusiliers and unicorn fish. Tomato Anemone fish make up a good portion of the wall to the left. In each crack of reef an anemone surges from it. The Tomato Anemone fish share the tentacles lodged in the reef and continue darting out of each.

The swarm of fish that we had at Little China cannot be matched by the aggregation of light and dark blue surgeonfish mixed with rainbow runners and fusiliers. On the opposite side of the reef the group of fish fill the water. Blankets of blues shade us from the sun. The fish are a tight knit bunch that move as a mass. We make runs through the middle. The school seems unaffected. Opening up to let divers pass through, the fish come back together again as though they swallowed the diver. Twin hawksbill turtles pass in next to the school and we take time to get a few photos of the uncommon duo. The big draw to this site is the chance of seeing the two pygmy seahorses on one particular sea fan. Huddled around one fan in the mitts of the eternal sea stand not two but four tiny seahorses. The two larger sea horses are seen first but at a closer look two seahorses half the size are resting with the minute tails wrapped around the fan. The night dive was filled with expectations on finding the elusive Milne Bay epaulette shark that becomes more active at night when it comes out to hunt. As soon as we reach the reef we have a 3-foot long epaulette shark waddling over the patch coral and sand.

The night was spent in the protected half moon bay of Nuakata with village fires burning through the night. The break of dawn comes and as we pull the forked anchor from the fine compact muddy sand, a dolphin break the water in a spinning motion to splash back down again. Again the dolphin twists then a splash. This pod of dolphins calls the bay home in the mornings. The dolphins stay in the tranquil waters as we contour the northwestern tip and the short ride to Boirama Island. We round the corner to have small palm frond roofed huts constructed on the small island. Right off shore we moor the yacht with a deep channel separating the large landmass of Nuakata and the tiny Boirama Island. A dinghy ride up the island and a back roll and we are in the water again. A very slight current drifts us back to Star Dancer. Garden eels in very shallow waters are a treat to see and going deeper short nosed pipefish lie on the sand bank next to a handful of crinoids and a Halloween colored ornate ghost pipefish. The black and orange fish brings the crowd. Two bumphead parrotfish create large shadows with a dog-toothed tuna. Two white tip reef sharks stick on the sloping bank.


The grey sky makes the reef’s blue stand out even more. The different depths of water and reef hold teal shallow reef waters falling off to a sapphire deep running sea. Crinoid City has been one of the highlighted dives of the charter and without fail the current is following slowly and the reef has come alive again. Star Dancer hangs over the edge of the wall as we kick forward to the other side of the reef. There are so many species of fish that have come to rest right on top of the reef. Oceanic Triggerfish, Barracuda, Jacks, Tangs and Fusiliers fill our view. We are living the documentaries that have been filmed by travels such as Cousteau and DeGruy. The thought of David Attenborough’s eloquent voice come in my head when the windowpane of fish surrounds us. Everyone finds a place to sit in the water column to let the fish pass closely by as though we are part of the attraction.

Clear skies and a glorious day in the morning. The wall at Peer’s reef is calling us for a drift dive. The ocean is cut into two. Shallow water reef reflect a greenish blue and the cobalt blue that runs along side indicates the infinite deep. The current take us along a sheer dropping wall. The bannerfish with streamer like dorsal fish whip as a large school of the fish make a line up and down the water column. Hawksbill turtles ride the invisible flow with us. White tip reef sharks find the sandy outcropping as their place to rest. Time to find out exit point as we rise up the wall and make an easy left hand turn into the relaxed shallows.

The far reaches of Normandy Island are drenched in misty clouds. Pulling into the village is a welcoming feeling. It is always nice to come and enjoy not only the world-class black sand diving but also the villagers paddle out into their canoes with freshly picked exotic vegetables and fruits. The children of the area come out from school in the afternoon and see Star Dancer and drop their books on the shore side swimming and paddling and begin to sing with wet hair and dripping clothes. The diving isn’t bad either. In the first five minutes of the dive we have a flamboyant cuttlefish pulsing the colors of purple and yellow over its body. We gather all the guests to see this rare and eye-catching creature. The cuttlefish makes everyone’s eye wide. This animal is on the top of the list for visitors to Papua New Guinea. Not to be out shined, we have ornate ghost pipefish hiding in crinoids, carpet anemones with porcelain crabs and a bounty of different shrimp hovering around. The fallen trees have made a home for many eels. Another great find was a Pegasus Sea Moth. The beak of the fish is about an inch long. It waddles on the sand and spreads it’s tiny translucent wings. The network pattern of browns on the back keep it well blended in.

Now back to the reefs. The ridge at Cherie’s is some of the healthiest coral life around and the fish are attracted to the bright colors and shelter. A Pharaoh Cuttlefish is very receptive to all of the attention it is getting. The guests come right up to it for photos and it doesn’t budge. We depart from the fish and it remains in the same place as though we weren’t even there. A nice rose-colored anemone stands out and the tomato anemone fish that calls it home is very active in looking into the camera as well.

Crossing the shallow sand bank at the eastern tip of Papua New Guinea, we have depths that plummet quickly. Cobb’s Cliff resembles a fortress wall beaten away by fierce battles but still withstands the struggle of currents. The wall comes up to a narrow ridge growing higher than the rest of the reef. The current brings turtles that can barely be seen in the background past the barrage of fish. Anthias crowd the reef lighting up black corals with their neon orange glow.

We have a full day of trekking through the bush and diving along a coastline in search of out of the ordinary life. The profound drop offs on the north side and fertile soils of the land create these most amazing backdrops of vegetation thick with tropical birds squawking on a hidden branch for a dive sight. The old fallen tree, grey with color weathered for time spent in the equatorial sun, lays on it’s side inches away from the waters edge is our marker to drop the anchor and back Star Dancer to our submerges mooring line. Anxious to drop in, the splashes with each stride and the disappearing heads of the group begin a day of fantastic finds. Not more than a few minutes into the dive and we have a reddish orange seahorse making its way across the sloping sand bank. Easy to spot and rare to see, the sea horse freezes as to blend in with the sand with tail turned around a strand of algae. Two more seahorses are found close to one another. A salt and pepper accented seahorse and a hairier looking sea horse shelter close together. The withered tree at waters edge has left several branches in the water. A green sea turtle rested between a fork in the barrel shaped trunk. This site is very dynamic and sightings vary each charter.

The winds blows out of the west as we find Laud and village chief Andrew waiting to say hello. The charter is rich with cultural life of Papuan New Guineans and Andrew is always up for a talk about himself and the history of his lands. The coral garden at the point and the rich sand holding playful octopus are just the way to spend the day.

We say goodbye to the waters for now with our last dives near the shore of Duchess Island. Grey reef sharks and black tips come around off the reaches of the pinnacle. We have sunny skies and a little breeze as we coast back to Alotau. Such a beautiful day.

For The Ocean,
Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain’s Report Oct 9-19, 2012

The rain falls through the night. The light mist begins soon turning into heavy drops that pound down on the dirt. The Indian red terrain turned to mud in less than five minutes. The rain channels down the drops of the mountains flowing into the sea. The chalky red color saturates the dark blue sea. Branches and full logs roll in the raging swelled rivers finally set afloat in the ocean. Frogs and spiders from land cling to the stalks of uprooted trees that float freely. The rains stop that night. Milne Bay is now a debris field. The water recedes and the river begin to run dry. The bay is layered from the greenish blue waters in the center of the bay to the brackish green coming closer to shore to the milky brown from the last remnants of the force of nature. The guests await us at Driftwood resort. Cutting a line through the layers of water, our chase boat reaches the dock with a line of green water exposed under the surface. We break away from the bay, the water shine a new color of blue and no signs of the lost rain. The small clouds hide the sun from time to time and the rays beam pleasant tropical warmth down. The sea has agreed with our travels and has granted us a very calm passage to Samarai Island. After dinner the sun wanes finally exiting without event. The yacht is motionless. A beautiful night awaits us.

The calmness of the night passes. No ripples on the water. The moon caressed my billowing clouds and the light of the old capital in the foreground. Peaceful and rejuvenating after long travels. The anchor is pulled from the bottom giving little opposition. Lush green kissed hillsides and blue water fill the frame to begin our day. We pass early morning fishermen raising and lowering one arm tugging on lines that run the deep. Closing in on the horizon, an island lay before us. The beaches are made of white with a high sloping beach. The engines quiet down as the mooring line goes tight. Ladders are lowered in the water. What lie beneath in these foreign waters are sights few have dreamed of and fewer have bared witness to. A solitary manta makes its way. Coming straight into sight and at us. A few passes and the beast is a ghost in the shadows cast by the cloud cover from above. A scattering of soft coral carpets the bottom and colorful nudibranchs and slugs inhabit the polyped stalks. Pygmy cuttlefish are bound to the coral for shelter.

Hidden under cement slabs and wooden posts, the fish gather. Current streaming from bow to stern, we wind through the structure. Brown eyes are cast over the side of the old wharf watching bubbles and wondering what is to see. A wall of fish collects at the head of the current. Some break the off of their wall like atoms being split from the nucleus then again returning to the wall. Forgotten debris sits on the bottom along with shells and rocks rubble. A woebegone shark comes between the group and finds a place in the debris field to rest. The 5 foot long shark now sits quietly, motionless to all the attention it has now gotten. The sea bottom holds robust ghost pipefish, a stonefish fixed under a fallen pilling. Coral mounds run shallow with rose red anemones. Tomato anemone fish find this to be the best spot on the reef. In such a small area, there are five different species of anemone fish. The untouched sea of Papua New Guinea is one of the last places in the world with so much to feast your eyes on. Fallen pilings stack on each other. The wood has turned black from the time being underwater. Very similar to a fallen tree in a forest, the growth covers small cracks in the wood like a coating fungus. The center section of the piling has been rotted away and leaves a hole where a large day octopus spreading it’s tentacles out easily seen. Batfish and Lionfish flourish in the mid water. Plenty of pink and orange anthias as well as damselfish to chase. As the current recedes, the small baitfish gather under the wharf. Paths of fish make a slalom course track in the structure. Small barracuda combine to increase the commotion in the settling sea.

The skies have been beaming down sunshine and the invisible warm tropical heat warms us. Three colors dominate our view on the surface. Green is the color of the 360-degree view of the ragged mountains quenching by the recent fallen rain. Blue in contrast, the powder blue skies and the two tones color of the sea. Shallow reefs beam an aqua reflection surrounded by cobalt. White is the hint of clouds passing by. In all of a splash it changes. The reef is a kaleidoscope and with every turn it turns with you. Hard and soft corals burst with color. Along with the fish, an overwhelming luminous glow is cast. Blue and yellow fusiliers flicker, parrotfish race over the reef. Hearts race at the sight of sharks. The beauty of such an animal is only captured by being in their presence. The sleek make of its body with effortless design of locomotion. Although curious, grey reef sharks keep a watchful on us as the slip through group into the blue again. Our time at Little China is short but very memorable.

The softer side of diving comes when you have minute creatures that become big attractions. We have been able to see two pygmy seahorses at Linda’s but now there has been a few more added to the pink sea fan that they rest on. Assuming they are a mated pair, we have spotted 2 more even smaller seahorses on the fan. Just a short turn from the yacht down the reef. An octopus flashed white making it’s way over the sand and up a ridge. Being chased by damselfish biting its head, the octopus rears back two tentacles and fires. The tentacles are aimed at the annoy fish hoping to ward off the unwanted pests.

Our morning is bathed in sunny again. The seas are glistening reflective mirrors. The southeasterly winds have died down for now and nothing but the radiance of the day to enjoy. The water is inviting with a host of things to see. Descending downward, we can see that there are round bright purple ball shaped anemones rolled up not yet layered over the reef. The reef is slight and the fish gather. Moving the right side of the seamount, the fish life piles up where the current first hits the reef. Breaking through the ranks we scatter schools of surgeonfish. Venturing deeper the current weakens and we look upward. White tip reef sharks cling to the coral ridge and a grey reef sharks continues to pace back and forth in front of us at times coming right at us then breaking off it’s course when bubble are blown. With the current pushing us, we wrap around the corner in the middle of a school of barracuda and right above them silhouetted, a large number of jacks. The reef falls away into deeper water. A quick left hand turn out of the current to a wall of coral and we make our way once again over the top of the mount and down the front again to repeat the ride like a child running back into the line after getting off a carnival ride. The second run gives us the same thrill and we begin to make our way back to the yacht. We make our left hand turn again into a sand patch full of garden eels. Each eel reach over a foot from the sand. Writhing bodies with their tails still tucked into the sand the eels lower as we pass overhead.

Cherie’s has nothing put soft corals covering every inch of the coral ridge that we hover over. Sharks sway with the current along with the corals. The fish ride the ridge staying on bottom with small motions. Big sweetlips are common here and with the rocky formations we come over one structure to view two or three of the fish then on to the next with more.

Current brings in big animals and there is no place better to see big animals than the wall at Peer’s reef. A true drift dive, we hop into our chase boat and head up the reef away from Star Dancer. With a quick back roll we begin to float aimlessly down the dramatic wall. The wall angles outwardly at first. A black tip reef shark circles down at 115 feet. A handful of white tips skirt the wall as it turns into a sheer vertical wall. Banner fish cluster together along with barracuda. Two turtles pass us by and we are able to drift along with them. Off in the farther reaches of the depth, two hammerhead sharks swim effortlessly.

The clouds begin to cover the sky. Heading over to Normanby Island they become thicker. The rain begins to come down. Racing down the mountainside it empties into the ocean. The village we are headed to rests at the end of the jungle. Star Dancer spins in place and the anchor is dropped. Backing up, the stern goes fast tied to a tree. The black sand awaits. Small shrimp and crabs cling to anemones here. The squat anemone shrimp are no better than a half inch but are easily seen. Branches lay being engulfed slowed the by the sandy bottom. Crinoids clad in black and white flowering patterns host a pair of ornate ghost pipefish. Nembrotha nudibranchs cluster on the decline. Green, black and yellow wavy watercolor brush stokes paint this nudibranch. Very bushy anal gills extend upward like a tree sprouting. The mist from the mountains builds into heavy rain. Drops that filter through the valley with fresh fall to get the cockatoos spinning out of the tree. Children being care free dance at the water side then splash in pulling along the stern line of the yacht attached to a near by tree. Canoes build in numbers. Water logged wood that leak through the wood creating puddles of water on the inside. Stalks of bananas, large pumpkin and papayas rest in bowls at the front and back of the canoes. Trading with the locals is a mutually beneficial enterprise for both Star Dancer and the villagers. The guests sample straight from the garden medleys of exotic foods and the locals without access to markets, get essential rice, sugar and even soap. The village children resist the rain and swim to the dive platform or paddle up in their canoes. A chance to see a world different from their own. The want to share a part of their lives with the guests. To touch foreign hands and exchange smiles. They love to sing even with wet clothes clinging to skin and hands clinched shivering they sing not wanting to leave. A few guests have come with gifts for the handful of children. Marbles are a big hit. Some of the only games to pass the time away in the village is to shoot marbles but the marbles are usually large acorn shaped nuts. This time the kids are in for a treat with them being handed out.

Venturing to the north side of the cape, the deep waters of Wahoo Point falling walls are the best place to see large pelagics roaming. The water is crystal clear. The mooring rests is situated right at the point. Sheer walls to the left and right, the constant gathering of fusiliers in the blue and the decision is made to go right. Niger triggers hover right about the sand, an unusual sight that means only one thing. The triggerfish are nesting. The blue forked tails propel the fish at us. They are protective of the brood of eggs left in the sand. Small in size but big is heart the fish constantly lunge forward sneaking around us in a defiant assault. Clearing the dangers of the triggers, the lucky thing about that was that they weren’t titan triggerfish, which are bigger, more aggressive, and love to bite to take chunks of fins from divers. Our group scatters about looking in cracks for nudibranchs and octopus. Skirting up the reef with an unmistakable head motion, a solitary hammerhead sharks breaks the silence. The sleek predator spares no time to leave the area after it is spotted.

Our black sand dives are our specialty and Michelle’s has plenty of amazing things to see. Our guests have a great eye. A painted frogfish decorated in white with orange ridges props itself up against a small rock. Nudibranchs are all over the sand with many that follow one another closely. Mandarin fish are hidden well in the rocks at dusk they come out of the corals. Scattered they continue coming out more and more. The sun fades.

Laudi is a spectacular setting of both land and sea. The scenery is remote, lost in time, thick with a musky odor of the nightly fallen rain, the air is a reminder of how far we are from mass groups of people, high rise towers, busy highways. Unfamiliar to most, it is comforting to know that some things are still wild and the power of the earth is not in the hands man but in a symbiotic dance. These long dives treat the senses. Deacon’s reef can only be explained by walking through an underwater forest filled with blossoming sea fans. Coral trunks with many colors and shapes rise skyward to create a maze. The brown cabbage coral laying low to the bottom is the ground to stroll over. The water is clear and the sun peaks through as light break between leaves shining down on our faces.

Each morning we wonder what will be the next adventure. The reef ahead of us still healthy, full of life. Sharks are numerous. Black tips, grey reef and a few white tips run along the deep ridge. Although shy, the sharks leave when we first enter but slowly make their way back feeling for the comfort level. Although not massive sharks, it is a healthy population to see in a small area. A good sign for the environment and a hope that these animals will thrive. As many as eight sharks come through the line of sight.

It is a wonderful place to be. To be lost yet know right where you stand. It is the life of Papua New Guinea.

For The Ocean,
Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain’s Report Oct 24 – Nov 2, 2012

The rain has been sporadic. Flowing from the hills the rivers change the bay to brown. Ready to make for bluer trespasses, the crew accommodates the guests with baggage and a quenching drink to battles the mid afternoon sun. Overcast skies reflect more green than brown as we depart Milne Bay. The breeze chops the water slightly and is never felt under the hull. A breath of air in a foreign land is always a good thing even more so while in Papua New Guinea. The rich country with secrets to unfold. Hazy sun shines down upon us until the last remaining light slips our sight over the mountain and down the other side. Our last view of this day is of the mountains swallowing us in through the China Strait.

The morning is no brighter however the first taste of Papua New Guinea waters is as sweet as one can ever imagine. Filled with rainbow colored fish and creature unknown to most, we splash into mother ocean’s bosom as she nurtures our desire to be closer with her. The sea opens its beauty wide. One guests trails, a shadow, large moving off in the distance. Pointing outwardly eyes squint to the direction. Finally grasping the image, a gasp is an auditory acknowledgment of the manta. Regal in its form, the gentle creature passes the cleaning station. We meet up with the rest of the group and point out that there was a manta sighting. Fins kick a little faster to reach the cleaning station. As we break the fog of visibility, a rock covered in small carpeting corals stands alone in a field of fine grained sand bring the two toned manta back. Excitement builds in the crowd and feet meet water to propel closer. As though we were ghosts, the manta once again sets off in the haze.

The mood is jovial and the sight of a manta on the first dives of a charter begins to make the mind wander into what will be seen in the coming days. There will be no need to wait for long. Motoring in the dark waters we reach the dilapidated superstructures of Samarai Wharf. A pleasant walk through the old capital where a bounty of flowers grow and the child take a break from their studies at the primary school to say hello to the strange visitors. Water from the local pearl cultivating runs across the concrete. Locals gather around the boat, children look on with wondrous eyes, exchanging smiles and laugh as our guests take pictures and show the children what they look like. We hop into our gear ready to jump in. Following the pilings down, we duck under the concrete slab walk way. Propped up on a board lying across the bottom a woebegone shark rests with it’s mouth cracked opened. Laying a few feet away is another woebegone motionless to our approach. A small current begins to die down and the massive school of baitfish positioned by the bow of Star Dancer break in a burst like an explosion in all directions. An orange anemone is right under the boat and mingling on the inside purple tentacles are three clownfish bouncing up and down always keeping a very close proximity to the anemone. The baitfish are now gathering under the wharf. Columns contort around the pilings. Small barracuda mix in. The scales reflect light like a wall of shiny armor. Coming out from the cover of the wharf we transverse the shallow sand patch to the other remains of the wharf. Smoke colored batfish swim right into the camera. Usually shy, the fish are quite friendly today. Two signal gobies sift through the sand between to rotted fallen logs. On this side of the wharf more baitfish cling to the pilings. The school of fish is so large that it blocks all visibility forward. The tiny fish encircle us. Our exhalation clears paths upward. The fish form a halo shape around us and with precision the mass keep a perfect circle as we keep swimming through. The dinghy is tied off at the surface and is lined up in the shallows. A stone filled wall is filled with dull rose-colored anemones. It wall runs some 50 foot long and no patch of wall is not covered with the anemones with countless number of anemones fish. Sitting out in the open is a rare toadfish. We have only seen these oddly shaped fish here at the wharf. Blue eyes and patched in tan and brown, the fish sits on its front fins then darts off to the anemone wall and turns completely dark brown. Passing down the woodpiles and sand divided by a forgotten log two more woebegone sharks rest on the bottom. The sandy brown and tan patches blend the carpet shark well with their surroundings.

The bottom fades to blue. An outline of sand and coral lie ahead of us. Pulling yourselves forward to the underwater mountain. We are on the outer reefs at Nuakata and the current is flowing. Little China is alive. Swift moving fish flutter their tails to keep up in the current and not to be swept away. The top of the plateau always has the strongest flow so we make our way to the front of the sea mount and then plunge down the hard coral wall passing over staghorn coral spikes and out of the heavier water flow. Making a 90-degree turn to the right, we levels off in at 60 feet of water. Now looking up we see that we split through the mass of fish still hovering the current. Only the black bodied silhouettes on a sheet of light blue paper is up. The kick is slight and quickly we come upon a small grey reef shark that give no sign of care as it spins back around in the middle of our group to join our ranks. Then the shark’s body curves and as quickly as it came the shark turn once again on a descending path. Looking ahead, an outcropping covered in pink and purple soft coral stalks is the turning point where the current breaks. The meeting point between water and earth, we once kick and now we glide. Another larger grey reef shark keep a watchful eye on us as it passes. Picking up speed, we are vaulted over the sloping xenia banks to wash out on the lee side of the bhommie. Little flow and a nice leisurely kick back to the yacht. Right below the morning the red striped pattern of a volitan lionfish flares it’s fins brilliantly in a head downward position. The feathery fish rocks back and forth in the surge waiting for the moment to open its gaping mouth and suck in an unsuspecting fish.

The overcast skies break apart revealing blue. Sunlight kisses the land and ocean. In hopes to find pygmy seahorses Linda’s always seems to come through with like the Dancer Fleet… with excellence. The reef is an oblong egg shaped mound cut by a sand channel. Perfect of white tip reef sharks to lay and rest. We are able to approach such sharks with easy until the shark feels that we are too close and moves away as to be bothered by the annoying unwelcomed visitors. The current is mild. Just enough to bring to fish above. The anthias here are epic. Different species cohabitate in the tiny breaks in the reef. Small trevally bright yellow in color skim the top looking trying to catch an inattentive fish. Standing alone amongst a forest of black coral, a pink fan creased over is where we look. It takes a few second to scan the fan and there, with tails wrapped around the polyped fan stalk are two Denise pygmy seahorses. With all the attention, the seahorses flutter from one stalk to the next. A long nosed hawk fish rests above looking down on the same fan poised and striking at the large mass of translucent shrimp that creep on the fan. The crowd grows and now the group of 16 tries to get a glimpse at some that is only less than a half-inch in height.

The calm morning is a welcome sight. Not having to travel far from our nightly anchorage, Boirama is both stunning underwater as is the view overlooking the speck of an island and the village that rest right on the beautiful sand bank. Light green and blue cascade from the island as Star Dancer’s bow point at the small huts of the village. To the right of us is the towering hill of Nuakata. In between is a deep blue running channel. The current is gentle and a good time to hop in the chase boat and do a drift dive. Drifting with the sloping sand wall on the right and the deeper channel to the left. A pair of rays is seen in the blue. A white dotted back signifies an eagle ray. Another rarity, the eagle ray coasts along contrasting its black and white body with the backdrop of blue. Moments later, a bigger ray appears. Another manta with a ten-foot wingspan delights us with effortless motions. Not to be outdone, the flat faced profile and bulbous bump on the brow give away the identity of these jade parrotfish. These bumpheads block out most of the sun. Formative beaks protrude from their mouths like a child with an overbite. Sitting under the squadron of 30 bumpheads, a coral encrusted rock sitting on the bottom at 70 feet. Crinoids ruffled with bright colors cling with small claws. An ornate ghost pipefish, black with speckled yellows is hidden in the feather appendages. A small debris field of small sticks and leaves the topside of the island is a good place for little short nosed pipefish to lay on the sand mixed in with the almost identical patterns of the twigs. Yet another pipefish lives on this reef. Wide bands of brown followed by little tan bands.

We round the corner of Nuakata Island and the sea is calm. A pleasant 30 minute cruise on the glass waters, sun beating down and a light breeze in our face. The weather is continually clearing as the seasons change from a windy springtime on the cusp of summer. There are no falling leaves of autumn just green mountains rolling with palm, coconut and banana tress. Oddly enough the current has subsided which is perfect for Crinoid City. The jewel of Nuakata, glistening water hail to our senses. The sun is turning downward and a light haze reflects off the water. We free-fall, bubbles trails rise to the surface. The reef is armored with staghorn corals that seem to cover the top of the mount. Schools of fusiliers caravan on invisible highways following one another. Jacks circle above and many balled up anemones hold firm to the rock. Barracuda are distant phantoms in the visibility. Garden eels stand tall in the sand and a new find lying on top of the sand patch with the eels. Mushroom corals the size of dinner plates have tentacles on the top and many animals like to cling. Shrimp and crabs rest between the stalks at time but today we have a real treat. A mushroom pipefish, white in color with black slits and a hint of red coils around the coral. The dive is a constant feast for the eyes. Heading back to the mooring the schools of fish seem to gather in bigger numbers. 50 jacks dart down the reef and the fusiliers are to many to count.

Every morning we are surrounded in a half moon bay with hills that rise over our heads. A few canoes linger around the boat finishing up a night of fishing. The villagers wear tattered clothes that usually hang from their bodies. The people of this area are hardy and are constantly doing something that will be productive to the next hour or day. The village bell is rung at 6:30am each day and the sound reverberates through the crescent shaped island. A little bounce over each small wave is a calming rock to the morning. Not knowing what to expect for the dives to come at Peer’s reef, tales of sheer walls with waters pushing you past the likes of sharks and turtles, school of banner fish are told by the crew to add electricity to the air. Both dives the current was not over powering and the short dinghy ride was a perfect time to reflect on the previous days of diving and also to take in the beauty of the islands off in the distance. A fine line of water distinguishes between the blue deep sea and the greenish blue waters that are reflected by the reefs below. Entering the water, we head face down along the wall with nothing but the endless fathoms of water. We have to kick slightly into the current that breaks in two as the rush from the outward water meets the wall. A few short flutters and he have began to pick up speed and kicking doesn’t seem necessary. A grey reef shark is first seen making it’s path along the wall then and white tip just a few feet above keeps it’s direction until out of sight. Looking up, a cleaning station at the edge of the reef filled with fish over our heads. The wall has a slight angle outward going into the depths then turns vertical. The current can be so strong that only brushy black coral and whip corals off in the deeper water. Niger triggerfish with contrasting blues, dark blue at the front of their bodies falling back to a light blue to the electric blue forked tail keep off the edge off the falling wall. In mid current the wall is vertical. More and more fish gather. We are intruders in their realm some find refuge in the deeper waters or disappear in the scores of ledges of the wall. Rainbow Runners mix in the curtain of blue water. Like a phantom coming into the line of visibility just over our shoulder is a hulk of a shark. The long forked tail and girthy torso running into the razor sharp pectoral fin narrowing to the flattened head rocking side to side. One of the bigger hammerhead sharks that has been spotted. We are close to the wall with clear water the shark follows us for a few kicks of it’s tail the turns it’s head outward back to where it came from. It is the highlight of the dive but it is not over. A school of medium barracuda with 25 in number sits in the current. The coral begins to slope again and is our cue to peer into the angelic rays of sun flickering high above.

The wind and sea favor us, the sun burns an orange fire over the water with the first of the morning light. Clouds glow of crimson. Higher and higher the light reflects the pinnacle of the underwater mountain range. The sea tower rises up out of the middle of nowhere. Cabbage coral lines the top. Pulsing yellow flashes through the coral. A deep ridge with grey reef sharks ventures away from the yacht. Sea fans of white glow.

Winds pick up and the sea is a feathery white disappearing into the blue. Calypso waits for us. Hard coral on two levels. Cuttlefish vibrate in a rhythmic beat changing colors. The most creative structures of coral are seen here.

For The Ocean,
Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain’s Report Nov 6 – 16, 2012

A charter full of photographers from beginning to the professional level adored metal casings and large strobes. Although many times on the fleet’s yachts but nothing like the experience of Papua New Guinea. A photographer’s paradise. Above water, high rising greenery, thick and alive with yellow crested birds, red and green wings parrots and an assortment of villagers ready to make trade on the stern of Star Dancer. We are small in our moment in time but for many the trip of a lifetime. The unchanged land and ways of its people are captured on lens far detached from this world. As the two worlds meet there is laughter. With each opening and closing of the shutter an image is held in time. The children with inquisitive eye, the villager with his ragged unshaved face, canoes slowly filling with water and the tarnish metal bowl holding fruit and vegetables freshly picked for trade. All laugh at the sight of an image on the back of the cameras. Heads of the children move for a closer look as the guests spin their cameras around so the gathering crowd can catch a glimpse of their true selves.

The adventure has started. We seek mantas and find them. Swimming on the surface before the dive and then underwater. Passing by without care. An old beat up foundation of past glory is found as a treasure. A school of baitfish so large that while going under it only blocks out the sun and with a few kicks we find ourselves in the middle of the mass. Breathing out, the bubble rise separating the fish, the sunlight breaks through slowly as the fish form a ring around us. The musty heat from the sun has groups of 9 children jumping off the pilings of the wharf. Splashing down in unison above our heads.

The reefs are pristine here. The cycle of life is strong. Hard corals grow and fade and rebuild again. Attracted by the coral havens, the fish flock on the top of the reefs. Each seamount slightly different with it’s own special setting. Pygmy seahorses ever so tiny hide in fans everywhere. Denise and Bagabonti species twists tails and cling ever so still. The water is filled with life down to the minute planktons, which feed the majority of the animals here. From whale sharks to crabs this is the lifeline. Grey and white tip reef sharks are always present although not always seen. Silver tips and hammerheads are elusive; shadows of the blue waters and even Tiger sharks have roamed here. Ornate Napoleon wrasses share the water with hawksbill and green sea turtles.

On the black sand we have had one of our best charters for finding the rare and exotic. Flamboyant cuttlefish, mimic octopus, five frogfish and numerous ornate ghost pipefish with a pair of the most beautiful of ornates I have ever seen. Yellow in color with red outlines. Dazzling in design and breath taking to see. Nudibranchs cover the sand and shy seahorses cling to twigs hidden in a massive leaf pile running down from one of the many river mouths.

If there is a change you seek, you will find it here in Milne Bay. The diversity and contrast of diving is one of a kind. It’s up to you to grasp these moments and make them yours.

For The Ocean,
Captain Lowel