Star Dancer Captain's Logs

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain's Log Feb 28 - March 8, 2012

Feb 28th Time to take a deep breath of the ocean breeze as the Star Dancer parts the mirror like waters of Milne Bay. We have anxious guests from Germany, Russia and the USA. Our first ocean venture lasts for 4 hours and with perfect timing, dinner is served at sunset. The stars gaze down at the scarlet balled sun burning into the horizon leaving a brilliant water colored sky.


Feb 29th The weather is absolutely perfect. Patchy billowing clouds mask the vibrant blue backdrop of sky. The island of Gona Bala Bala is a lush green coconut tree filled landmass. Approaching the island is always exciting. Near shore, small black tips pierce the surface. As we come closer, the shape of the from where the tips are seen. Giants manta rays parallel the shore line on the surface as they feed in the marine rich waters. A quick briefing, we plunge in and shortly after our first sighting of this truly amazing beast. Our guests our dwarfed by the sheer mass of the mantas. With wing spans of 18 feet, the mantas come in and out of the range of the visibility. Leather soft coral blanket the bottom of the ocean with nudibranchs of all colors creep and crawl to the delight of our Russian nudibranch lover, Svetya. The second dive is even more exciting as we head to the coral formation that the mantas frequent to be cleaned. The whole dive the animals spend with the guests giving an underwater acrobatic show. Ryan, from the USA, is beaming with asmile and is happy that he could get pictures of his first manta sightings in his life. The afternoon dives are held at the crowd favorite, Samarai Wharf. Pulling up to the wharf, the water boils with life. Bait fish encircle the wharf’s pilings and that brings in the hunters. Trevally and small tuna loom in the deeper waters darting in the pilings in packs to feast on the numerous bait balls seeking shelter of the structure. Banded pipefish , lionfish, batfish keep to the wharf and add to the splendor of the dive. Our first night dive has some rere sightings. A pink cockatoo waspfish rocks back and forth with the surge of the ocean. Big batfish rest right underneath the boat in the moonlight as translucent moon jellies pass through a small school of squid.
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Mar 1st Calm seas at night going to Nuakata Island, waking up to patch work of blue and white sewn together above and the ocean awaits our eager adventurous side. The morning sail to Little China signifies the start of our pinnacle dives. The international group of divers make a splash and are quickly treated to the tassled mouth of a Wobegone shark contouring the bottom of the coral filled sea mount. Divers delight in color and fins. Fish sweep over the reef in a mass of motion. Continuing in the frolicking at Linda’s reef, anthias by the thousands levitate above the hard coral structure in a wave of oranges and violets. A dormant white tip reef sharks lies inbetween the two coral formations on a sandy patch only to be woken up by the intrusive sounds of our bubble blowers.

Mar 2nd An early start to the day as we head to the far reaches of Milne Bay. The table top plateau stretches on the outskirts of two islands. Joe’s reef is nestled in the middle of a sloping soft coral wall filled with ornate and colorful sea fans. Coming into sight with a large coral breaking beak is a 4 foot long parrotfish. Green in color with a pink ridge running the length of it’s snout to the top of it’s bulbous head. The formidable fish makes it’s way through the coral patches biting bits of the firm coral mounts. Through time these fish actually been the main contributors to creating the beautiful white sand beaches around the world. Doubilet’s Reef is just off the corner of the main reef system. Booming with sea fans , Doubilet’s is an oasis in the middle of the ocean. Surgeon fish in large numbers concentrate themselves a few feet off the reef creating a cloud of fish that divers can be enveloped in. After the day of diving is complete we are treated to a night of stars and calm seas as we follow the stars to our Nuakata anchorage.

Mar 3rd Back at it again in the morning. The skies are clear and inviting the light down into the sea for crisp blue water filled with adventure. Pulling just off Nuakata’s half moon bay, Jason’s reef is a high rising sea mount. The bannerfish line the corner of the reef. The streamer off the top of their head flaps in the slow moving current. Ryan is able to snap a few shots of a passing hawksbill turtle. With the flash the shell backed amphibian turns shell towards our eager photographer and rapidly pickups it’s pace away to flee the aquatics paparazzi. Crinoid City tops off the day. A little bit of current brings a swarm of fish over the reef . Dancing coiled at 70 feet on a white sand bed, a colony of garden eels stand at attention. The question mark shaped eels dip down as the onlookers get closer.
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Mar 4th Boirama is a treat to dive this week. Close to shore we have a perfect of the village life of Papua New Guinea. Canoes lie on the beach and are being filled with fresh tropical delight from the villagers gardens. Paddling out on the placid sea, the natives bring an assortment of organic cucumbers, papaya, eggplant, star fruit and coconuts to trade. The cornucopia of fruits and vegetables are traded for rice, noodles and biscuits off the back of Star Dancer. Now the dive, Dropping down into the depths the bending reef is filled with an array of colorful fish. One of the special dives of the charter is to make it out to Peer’s Reef and a spectacular wall experience. Current laden, Peer’s Reef boasts large fish and falling walls into the abyss. Enormous groupers wait in the corals heads as we follow the flow of current along the wall. A sand channel leads our way with coral heads protruding skyward. Two great dives to start the morning! Crossing over to Normanby Island, we begin our black sand dives at Bunama Village. Tiny treasures lie in the eel grass and under logs. A banded snake eel scurries through the grass poking it’s head into burrows made in the sand eventually wiggling free some distance away.

Mar 5th As the sun slowly rises to cast light on the blue waters. Dolphins break the surface as they head to the bow of the boat for an early morning surfing session. Plunging down, the dual mountainous towers are covered with sea fans and a patch of healthy cabbage coral. In the midst of the the yellow blossoming coral sits an anemone with two skunk anemone fish swishing their bodies in the tentacles of the bizarre sea creature. The waters are alive with fins. Trevally, Titan triggerfish and several other fish circle over the coral running in and out of the fish masses. Dropping Following the face of the pinnacle downward, the pinnacle levels out to a platform of coral transversing the gap between the two aquatic towers. The green acropra hard coral sprouts out in a lattice of life where golden anthias huddle close to one another packing a contrast of dark green coral and golden flashes of fish. Keeping with the hard coral scenery, a short run over to Calypso. Jacque Cousteau named the reef after his vessel when filming a documentary on Papua New Guinea. The hard coral studded wall plays host to butterfly fish, parrotfish and every tropical fish that one can image. The hard coral fills the land and the fish cloud the water. Amongst the fish, a curious hawksbill turtle is startled as it rapidly vanishes over the wall. Laying soundly on the reef a white tip shark is awakened by the sound of approaching bubbles. Veering off the reef, the toothy denizen banks a hard left to parallel the reef the dives deep to avoid further encounters.
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Mar 6th Passing by the East Cape of Milne Bay, we head to the northern coast in hopes of big animal sightings. Wahoo point has been a location where the deep waters and sheer drop offs are perfect for pelagic to roam freely close to divers. A slight current is perfect for such animals and right off the wall a giant manta ray follows behind divers only to quickly catch up to the bubble makers and pass by within a few feet. Our Russian and German friends are delighted at yet another experience with a majestic creature. Slowly passing by, the solitary silhouette vanishes out of sight. We have time to catch a bite to eat and back in the water for an afternoon at Laudi and Deacon Reef. Hailed as one of the great dive sites in all of Papua New Guinea, we have a combination of brilliant reef structure feeding into a sand bank sloping into the abyss. If you are good on your air consumption then both of the sites will be available. It’s a perfect of what Milne Bay has to offer. Gorgeous coral reefs with azure blue back drops and a sand bank loaded with tiny creatures that only the sharp eye of our dive staff can find. We find several clownfish making homes in radiant green and purple anenomes and rustic brown and black seahorses clinging to twigs of fallen trees.

Mar 7th Deacon’s and Laudi were such a crowd favorite that we decided to stay the night in the glassy calm water of Laudi. The jungle breeze flows down the lush jungle coming to the shore. Hornbill and Cockatoos fly above for tree to tree. Octopi and lionfish liter the reef. Bannerfish sit on the sloping sand and bait fish come in from the deep waters to look for food. Cobb’s Cliff ends our full day of diving and the current brings in the wildlife. Batfish block out the sun as well as a Napoleon Wrasse teasing us with close passes.

Mar 8th Tania’s reef is beautiful. Baitfish run the sloping wall with fusiliers and surgeon fish gulping at feed the passes by in the current. A good 10 days of diving. Thank you to all of our international guests that made their way over to visit us on the Star Dancer in Milne Bay.

For The Ocean,
Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain's Log March 13 - 23, 2012

[h=2]Star Dancer sits poised and ready. Decks are wiped clean, the television is running photos taken by crew members of previous encounters to share the excitement of our new arriving guests. Dress in neatly pressed white uniforms the crew is ready. The short ride from Driftwood to the yacht by our local dive deck staff, Ben and Eddie is the passage to adventure. Once aboard our guests are greeted by refreshing drinks as they are shown to the spacious staterooms. The air is fresh with a warm touch to the skin. The cooling rush of air coming from the salon is a welcome feel when sitting down to the captain’s briefing. Engines are full and take to put Driftwood and the thoughts of where one has to be other than diving at our stern. The waning sun falls and the moon over takes the distant glow of the last rays of daylight. The hurry is over and a glass of wine and a top deck view of the southern constellations with the lights of Samarai Island and tomorrow’s journey in the distance is a good way of ending the day.[/h]


Patchy clouds and blue skies, a nice start. Passing through narrow channels of Deka Deka, near vertical ridges of green cut away by local villagers in time to plant local fruits and vegetables for the communal gardens that are a common sight amongst the Papuan villages. A small island is ahead. The half moon bay is a welcomed harbor. The topside beauty is just a small piece of the magical spirit that lies above and below these waters. The parched gear of the divers is saturated, once again coming to life as the water overcomes us as we descend or senses heighten as every inch of our body is touched by the flowing sea. Coral and sand mix creating a haven of low laying soft coral that resemble a patch of minute tree wrapped in a leathery skin. Those with a keen eye are quickly mesmerized with many different nudibranchs of different hues and shapes. Black flatworms outlined in gleaming blue are strewn about contouring each landmark that they touch. Hidden in the horns of a stag coral, a true treasure, spotted with black dots to contrast with its yellow body, a juvenile trunkfish flutters shyly. Star Dancer swings slowly over the shallows where a safety stop is done while looking for rainbow colored peacock mantis shrimp and two octopi that sit motionless outside the entrance of their lair. Warm showers with a view of the blue skies meeting the green mountainous ridges are a welcomed indulgence to the dive deck along with Chef Daisy’s twice a day in between dive snacks. The time passed on the surface telling stories with an abrupt break, a mass of white underbelly and wings breach the ocean. The large manta ray rotates as though it was taking flight with wings prostrate only to be denounced by the air as it plunge back into the depths of the sea. Sparking the interests, our guests need no coaxing to return to the water. We load the chase boat and with a simple back roll are thrust into a truly enchanting dive. A small coral formation in 24 feet of water surrounded by white sand is our setting. As we approach the shadows of four elegant mantas are seen. With the right position we rest on the bottom a few feet away from an enormous black and white manta and a rare all black ray. The rays glide in and out of the visibility with each pass just as thrilling as the last. The size of the black and white leviathan brings an awesome presence and perspective to each of us sharing the water with it. The rays depart the coral and we head back to the boat. Heading over several coral head the mantas show themselves again and again.

The old capital of Milne Bay yields an old wharf where the main boats would come from all over Papuan New Guinea for trade and commerce. Now the cement is chipped away with small stones exposed, rusted metal fortifies the cement structure. The crude edifices over hangs and pilings are perfect shelter for thousands of swarming baitfish that shimmer in a throng of scales. Fallen wood and discarded debris are hiding places for some brilliant creatures. Banded pipefish come in matching pairs along the rubble path while their close relative, the common pipefish are not easily spotted but with a keen eye they seem to be sitting in large group on the fallen wood. Lying at the bottom in the shade of the old wharf is a 4 foot long woebegone shark. Masters of camouflage, the carpeted mouth shark remains still as our guest get close up pictures of the not so common sight. We are ready to make a night run over to the East Cape to catch a sunrise and settle at Tania’s reef. During our briefing we have a commotion coming off the starboard side of the boat. Our crew member Ben stops and alerts everyone that we have a marlin dancing at the surface with its bill waving back and forth as it walks on the surface of the water then drops back into the depths. Breaking the surface again the marlin water walks one more time before it vanishes. We have a bit of current coming over the reef but with no problem we sink past the current to be greeted by a 3 feet long jade color Napoleon wrasse finding the current as no problem in the mid water. Sitting on top of a branching soft leather coral and cuttlefish continually changes colors and wows the group with its display. We move to Cobb’s Cliff for titan triggers and spotted sweetlips. Schools of batfish follow the group over the coral crest as we descend into a bowel shaped structure. Fluttering out from the reef is a huge yellow sea fan. Tiny Denise pygmy sea horses live on the fan by wrapping their minute tails on the fan.

Our next morning we head out to open ocean. As we motor to the morning dive site we have tranquil waters, smooth, a horizon running reflecting pool. Off in the distance we see figures creating ripples in the water. We turn Star Dancer in the direction and soon enough we have ten bottlenose dolphins at the bow riding the invisible wave created by the boat cutting through the water. We have 20 minutes to play follow the leader with the dolphins until they break from our path and we part ways as they continue of their path to deeper water and we head to Jason’s Reef. More pygmy seahorse are scattered in the sea fans. Yellow tipped barracudas swim over the top of the reef. The ridges of hard coral and rubble line the top of this plateau. Carpet anemones with clownfish flow in the invisible surge of the shallow waters. Linda’s reef finishes the day with sharks and seas of orange. Current flows through the site. As the incoming current runs over the reef we have grey reef sharks on the outskirts of the reef. Thousands of small tail fins vibrate back and forth as the sea of bright orange anthias hover right above the corals.

We spend a pleasant night in the half moon bay of Nuakata. Crinoid City starts the day with dog toothed tuna and a myriad of tropical fish filling the seascape. Garden eels sit in the sand bed. Our first black sand dive at Bunama gets us close to the daily village life. Canoes come out to the boat to trade local fruits and vegetables and locals on shore look on as Star Dancer being anchored right off shore is the attraction of the day. Snake eels and pipefish hide in the underwater grass with seahorses seen.

Venturing past the East Cape to the north side of the Papua New Guinea peninsula, we make a stop at Wahoo Point in hopes to have a chance to stop some big guests. The steep drop of the wall brings in pelagic. Mobular rays buzz by quickly, turtles and even Wahoo are seen. Patches of yellow leafy cabbage coral keep a number of angelfish and goatfish sheltered. Whip coral come out from the wall spiraling in the deeper water. We have found a new dive site in Barracuda Point. Shallow laid hard corals with a blue back drop of water Two hawksbill turtles come from the blue to entertain and a few barracuda hover above slowly moving out of sight when the divers move in.

Staying in the Tawali area we visit Coral Gardens, the surrounding hard corals are very healthy and fish are everywhere. A site less traveled, the reef is alive. Sprouting brain corals mix with large table size plate corals. Havens for small fish to mingle about in their daily routines of eating and making nesting areas. Moving away rocks out of their burrows. The north side of the land mass has perfect sandy slopes that hold some of the most interesting creature in the south pacific. Flower like crinoids cling to rocks and bloom in colorful feather like arms. Ornate ghost pipe mingle in the arms of the crinoids blending in. Michelle’s sloping black sand bank has numerous opportunities to see these rare finds.

The waters are smooth for a run to Duchess Island in the morning. The shallow morning is connected to the top of a cylindrical coral mount. Rising from a few hundred feet, the mount is actually an underwater ridge that extends from Normanby Island to a few miles off shore. The ridge streams along from hundreds of feet deep to massive rising pinnacles. Fish seem to enjoy top flat top of the mount and an abundance of yellow cabbage coral creates a small crown atop to mount. The yacht hangs over the edge of the deep and we make our way, floating downward spiraling around the sea fan covered tower. We level out at 70 feet to a bridge of coral running to another rising coral ridge. Blue fusiliers are plentiful and we become swallowed up by the school in the mid water. We have two white tip reef sharks swimming along to ridge. The reef is alive with jacks powering into the middle of schools of bait fish. There is a flash of motion in unison, the ball shaped mass suddenly becomes oval then a hole is punched through the center and the jacks emerge. The reef resumes the relaxed nature of life underwater. We pause for a delightful lunch prepared with fresh fruits and vegetables that come from local villages. We keep close to Duchess Island and the aquatic mountain range at Calypso. A straight running wall of very healthy hard corals seems to run into the horizon. We jump in to find a magnificent eagle ray slowly batting its decorated wings over the reef. We have white tip reef sharks in the blue and a few grey reef sharks. The multitiered site has plate corals the size of large dining tables.

Our last full day of diving is done at one of the jewels of Papua New Guinea. Laudi villages is tucked away between a rocky point with jungle growing over the water‘s edge and a small river mouth. The rocky point is known as Deacon’s reef with hard and soft coral flowing in collection of small pinnacles of slopes to find a wall edge at 30 feet of water. Falling straight down over the edge a rather large hawksbill turtle passes us by giving a glance of uninterest and continues on. Kicking back the boat the wall of coral falls away to patches of leaves and fallen tree logs. The bottom is turn on an angle and a slope begins to appear. Crocodile fish wedges into small pockets and tiny fish dart into every hole as we pass. No sooner the logs and leaves fade to small pebbles on the slope then to a fine black sand with patches of rocky corals. Lionfish cling to the ledges of the corals. Four different species of lionfish are home here. Octopi in the shallows are a treat especially during the day and as we finally reach the river mouth the bottom turns back in a debris field of branches where a family of brown seahorses wraps their tails tightly and stays completely motionless.

Cherie’s Reef is a good end to our Milne Bay experience. Large numbers of grouper point in one direction due to the invisible current. With a slight kick we summit the top of the corals and peer to face the current and witness countless fish moving with swishing tails to keep the place in line of the current. Leather soft corals undulate as the water continues to move. Soon enough it is time to surface, take in all the memories and relax.

For the Ocean,
Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain's Report April 24 - May 4, 2012

[h=2]Star Dancer Captain’s Log April 24 - May 4, 2012 [/h]


Always wonder where the next adventure is going to take us. Who we will meet along the way and what animals will cross in our paths underwater and sometimes above. The Tuesday arrival date comes after a short period of RE’s… Refueling, reprovisioning and recharging so we will be ready for the next ten days of exploring. The air is wet, the smell of fresh jungle leaves and the constant fires for cooking in every village radiating outward. A single road cut away from the vegetation take us away from the airport to Driftwood Resort. A sign leads the way to the gates. A hole cut through the greenery are the gates and finally the green breaks away to the sight of blue ocean at the resort. The crew waiting to greet our travelers, we load up the luggage with the guests already onboard and time to bid Alotau a farewell. An ocean breeze lightly crosses over the bow of the yacht and many guests take advantage of our spacious upper deck with hammocks and lounge chair to relax in as the wane sun dips below the horizon.

Excitement is in the air as we make you way to our first dive and have the chance of diving with manta rays at Gona Bala Bala. Already at the surface, a solitary manta parallels the shore scooping in mouthful of minute plankton. Just a quick stride off the back and the divers are emrsed into a world of tiny creatures hiding in the leather corals and massive mantas doing underwater fly bys. However, we know where they like to spend their time. A large coral head rests in a sea of white sand. Small fish hug the rock closely until from out of the stretch of the visibility an all black manta quietly glides in to rest on top of the coral head. The tiny fish leave the safety of the rock and begin to peck at the enormous ray. The manta is still although there is a current the ray stays motionless as the fish continue to clean. Sad to say our air is running low and we head back to the boat. During our surface interval, we get to watch the water for manta breaching with their bellies facing up to the sky. Four mantas came up right behind the boat and the chase was on to find snorkeling gear. Bodies were bobbing with the motion of the sea as the mantas encircled the group.

An excited group is ready to get back in the water after a quick move to the best wharf dive in the world. Samarai wharf is a hidden gem in a lost land. What seems to be a run down dock with a handful of already rusted pilings falling apart, it’s what’s under the water that makes is spectacular. Wobegone sharks lie soundly at the bottom. We are able to get within a few inches of these amazing rare creatures. Several guests were very happy to be able to see these sharks. It was on there list of things to see. The pilings are covered in beautiful orange polyped corals. Pipefish like to lay on these coral as lionfish stock small fish between the colorful pilings. Batfish also like to cling to the pilings for cover in schools of 8 and 9. An elusive cockatoo waspfish rocks back and forth with the water movement.

After a great start to our charter we head to the outer reefs between Normanby Island and the mainland of Papua New Guinea. The wind is slight and the visibility is exceptional. Schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish and grouper mingle above the coral laden terrain of the reef. Colors of the rainbow are everywhere. From purple and orange anthias covering the reefs to blue tipped staghorn coral. The green and brown rustic shells of the hawksbill turtle cautiously swims by. Swimming over 6 foot wide sean fans to countless fish around there is nothing like the experience of what this area has to offer. Getting out farther into the wild \, we spend a day at Joe’s reef and Doubilet’s. A beautiful sunrise rise with the sky burnt in oranges breaking the purple clouds just one of the lasting memories on the charter. Nice calm waters are ideal in this area and off in the distance a bow back then a tail break the surface of the water. Whales!!! From the boat we watch the whales come up for air then dive back down for 20 minutes. Being so far out of reach by human influence, the reefs are very healthy. Large polka dotted sweetlips with their mouths agape wait at cleaning stations for small fish to wind in and out of their mouths and gill plate.Sea fans are everywhere at the sites and a white tip reef shark doesn’t seem to mind the audience it has.

Staying close to Nuakata Island, Crinoid City is a charterly favorite. The school of barracuda and the garden eels are a treat. Anenomes cover the bottom. An octopus is quite friendly while perched on a coral piece of coral. Having a good crew is hard to find and ones that have sharp eyes for the small things makes all the difference to each guests’ enjoyment of the small things here. Melissa, our photo pro, spies an ornate ghost pipefish in the middle of two maroon crinoids. Such a treat to see out on the reefs. With flat seas, Star Dancer makes it’s way for our first trip to Normanby Island and to our first black sand dive. Bunama village is nestles into a small bay where the day is spent by fishing and gardening by the locals. We are greeted warmly and in no time at all the villagers have come out in their canoes to trade goods and to get a closers look at the strange people going under the water. Going slowly over the fine grained sand, we find robust ghost pipefish floating upright motionless. When our divers surface, they find themselves surrounded by hoards of children that have either paddled out on canoes or swam out using Star Dancer’s stern line to pull through the water. Many of the guests are able to get a view of village life as they head into the village and tour around the small school and church.

Sitting in the bay at Nuakata for the night we start up the engines at sunrise and steam to the less dove Peer’s reef. Usually the reef is laden with current however today it has lighten up and we are ready for a few drift dives to get the blood going. A quick charge up current in our dinghy we stop for a graceful back roll into the water, dive straight down and let the current do the rest. Turtles and barracuda take a ride with us on the aquatic highway. The turtle comes in very close and passes between the group. The first dive is done and now the jump behind the wall out of the current and explore the near vertical slope. As soon as we hit the water we turn downward and head for the falling wall to escape the surface current. Tucked in out of the current, we can take our time from the deep and leveling out and kicking then ascending and leveling out. Meandering on the side of the wall.Pulling up the ladders and in a short time we are at Jason’s reef. We have a grey reef shark come over the top of the group and head out to bluer waters. Ben, our divemaster shows everyone pygmy seahorses in the sea fans.

The next morning we arrive at Duchess Island right off Normanby Island. The area is a mountain range that sits only a few feet from the surface and other valleys of the range dip down below 200 feet. A pinnacles that rises to 20 feet below the water is a breeding ground for small batifish. Once you have small fish teeming you get bigger fish off in the blue waiting for the perfect time to rush in to feed. The bait fish are like a swarm of locust that cover the entire pinnacle head. A small current brings to life the water. The flash of trevallys in and out of the fish stock is well worth spending time on. Many of the guests turn into the current and sit atop to pinnacle right on the edge to have a front row seat at all the action. After the morning pinnacle dive, we spend an afternoon at Calypso with beautiful hard coral relief. Filled with magnificent hard corals, the current is still present and it has the fish dancing once again. The Fusiliers were out in large numbers in the current with more baitfish covering the reef.

We have a busy day and offer several different unique types of diving. We have Cobb’s Cliff and Wahoo Point, nice wall dives with very friendly school of batfish that follow the guests around the dive site the entire dive. We have mobular rays, mini mantas swimming under the guests during their safety stop.Wahoo Point’s sloping sand banks have plenty of nudibranchs crawling around to keep everyone busy.We get to take a land tour to visit the skull caves. Local hide the skulls of relatives and fallen warriors. Michelle’s has wonderful little creatures and we have our mandarinfish dive at sunset.

Cherie’s reef in the morning is quite a delight with sightings of a manta and a rhinopias that has been hiding for a few weeks from us but was spotted to the excitement of all divers. A Napoleon Wrasse that is a frequent sighting is seen a distance off in the current.

Our last dives are some of our best. The current picks up slightly and we have a Napoleon Wrasse right under the boat within a few feet of everyone. This sloping coral bank with bannerfish lining the reef is a great way to end our charter and enticing our guests to come back again for another adventure on Star Dancer.

For The Ocean,
Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain's Report June 5 - 15, 2012

[h=2]Star Dancer Captain’s Report June 5 – 15, 2012


The time I have spent in Papua New Guinea has been everything that you would imagine in a holiday adventure. Sitting on the outskirts of time, Alotau a throw back to colonial times where small bands of villagers meet in the town square during the day to peer in amazement at the western ideal being brought into this outpost in the jungle. Missionaries and merchants are at work in the humid jungle air. The single road guides your path from the airport through lush greens that surrounds each side of the road that at times is dirt and filled with holes that the drivers dodges like a slalom race car driver. Bare footed villagers in bright colors and bare feet walk along the side of the road stopping to look at the on coming traffic. Bundles of good balanced perfectly on their heads going to the local open-air market full of color from the array of vegetables and fruits grown in the gardens surrounding Alotau. The bus slows down and makes a right hand turn into the cut back vegetation. Gates swing open as the bus makes it’s stop and all guests file out. Their stop at Driftwood resort is short and at the dock the crew of the Star Dancer is awaiting their arrival. Warm greetings to all as the first boat ride from the resort to the mothership is made. Shortly after arrival, it’s time out to the rich waters in Milne Bay. The mooring is released and Star Dancer charges into the early afternoon sun. Relaxing is an easy thing to do on Star Dancer. The sundeck is filled with plenty of relaxing lounge chairs and two hammocks. Our guest Mark sits at the stern of the boat as we cast out our fishing lines. Within ten minutes, Mark is hooked up with a green shimmering mahi mahi that spins the reel and jumps several times out of the water. After the short fight, Mark successfully lands the fish. The afternoon cruise is a chance to take in the rolling green islands that sprout from the sea. One last turn around the major land mass and through the China Strait which John Morseby claim that it was a new path from Papua New Guinea to China, which he came to find was not true. The narrow strait funnels in the flowing sea capturing the raw might as Star Dancer surges forward in the increasing current. Pushed ahead, Star Dancer reaches the once starlet capital of Milne Bay where journeymen found new hopes in the surrounding fertile islands and azure waters while half clothed natives caught first glimpses of the iron clad steam ships pouring in from far reaches of the South Pacific. A shadow of itself now, the merchants of fortune are far gone. Buildings crumble regally under their own weight still fighting to hold the majesty of a foregone era. From a far, in descript figures crowd on the rusted cement block of the wharf fishing with just a glass bottle that has a rolled up fishing line attached. Swinging the baitless hook seaward in hopes of snaring the unsuspecting schools of fish. The afternoon light wanes as the anchor is lowered and sticks well to coarse pebble on the bottom. The day’s fevered pitch is settling and thoughts of diving in this alluring destination come closer to fruition as the sky is ablaze by the glowing full moon.[/h]



The smell of fresh vegetation mixed with a constant burning of village fires mingle in the air. Calm seas grant us an easy passage between the small white sand island of Deka Deka and the mountainous mass of Logia island. Long slender landmasses break the surface along our track. Up ahead is Gonu Bala Bala and what would become a morning filled of striking astonishment in the beauty of nature. The shallow waters hide a treasure that can only be truly felt in the moment. The descent is quick. Finding the sandy bottom, we softly glide to within 15 feet of a coral head that has two black mantas doing circle patterns above. At first, the awe of the graceful animals stops us, sitting in amazement. Seconds pass, the awe fills us with euphoria and the desire to come closer to the extraordinary beasts. Cautiously, we move closer creating a semi circle on one side. The mantas are comfortable with us; they pay no attention to our proximity to the cleaning station. The mantas path’s circle over and over again. They swing out towards us even pass between; fly by over head within arm’s reach. One manta departs and the large black and white manta comes in from the haze of the visibility. Spending a short period of time then leaving as it came. The black returns and joins in the circles then off again Chasing one another the lead manta turns upward in an arcing barrel roll. A smaller black and white ray come from out of nowhere in the chase. For one hour we sat mesmerized, knowing in our minds that we were granted a gift that few people have the chance to experience in any lifetime.

The sun is reaching its highest point in the sky masked by pillowing grey clouds. Star Dancer pulls slowly to the run down remains of the wharf of Samarai. Villagers gather along the cement chipped path of the wharf. Bare footed school children gaze at the neoprene clad foreigners that explore the mysteries of its waters. Looking over the side of the wharf, pilings are bathed in orange and pink anemones. Striped sergeant major huddle close to the piling. Small pipefish slither on the clusters attached to the pilings as groups of 5 lionfish splay their fins outward to hunt the bounty of small fish under the structure. Handfuls of multicolored nudibranchs are everywhere along the rocks and debris thrown in to sink by the villagers. A wobegone sharks lays motionless on the bottom in between the two wharf structures. A collection of mature batfish always seems to be present in the midwater. The different species of anemones blossom in the cracks of rock and fallen wood pilings. Anemone fish wiggle in the contours of the tentacles finding protection.
Under the starry moon light, Star Dancer heads to the tip of the main land mass of Papua New Guinea. Now the settings have changed to plateauing seabeds that fall slowly into the depths. Motions of life encircling us on the reef. Blue Fusiliers race vertically downward from the apex of the reef while skipjack mesh paths headed perpendicular of the Fusiliers skirting the reef. Big mushroom tops hard corals create mountain towers pinnacles. Propped up by its pectoral fins is a charcoal black rhinopias. The psychedelic designed fish with tassled appendages growing through out it’s body The long snouted fish is bothered by all the attention and find sanctuary under the formidable points of Elkhorn coral.

The east cape is a shape as a finger pointing at the two small islands that lie right past its reach. Shallow sand chutes bridge the gap of the islands emptying over into the virtual endless walls of the northern side of the cape. Cobb’s Cliff is a haven for large schools of friendly batfish that seem to follow you on every dive. Looking over your shoulder, one might see two of three accompanying you along the steep drop off of the wall.

Making the turn along the north coast, a point juts out where pelagic seems to pass frequently. Darker blue waters run deep along the vertical walls. No bottom reference and out in the blue with the visibility breaking to the dramatic drop of the wall. Divers parallel the wall. The 360-degree reference keeps eyes on the look out for big animals. The fang toothed Titan Triggerfish latch on to boulders and quickly turn them over biting away at the bottoms. Staying on the edge of sight, a mobular ray flaps it’s wings. Hovering above the beautiful yellow-ribboned cabbage coral is a spotted Barramundi with it’s sloped head pointed downward. Swarms of baitfish gather close to the surface while we make our safety stop. Our featured tour into the jungle of the north coast and the skull caves. A quick dinghy ride to shore. We venture along the coastal jungle trail greeted by children running in and out of the foliage and mother with babies slung over their backs in carriers with straps lodged on the brow of their mothers. Down a small slope into darkness. The slick shallow mud layer coats our feet with only the light from of flashlights illuminating the piles of skulls. The light catches motion from the ground. Hopping along is a small frog. We head deeper into the jungle and up a path made of tree roots and mud. Two or three switchbacks and the next cave it sits in wait. More spectacular then the last, the lime deposits run down with a small running of water. The room is filled with sparkling stalactites that sparkle with rich mineral deposits. A line of water runs down on top of skull and has encrusted some of the skulls in a macabre beauty.

Those who enjoyed the cultural side of Papua New Guinea at the skull caves return to the vessel that has backed up the boat to a sandy slope with a fallen tree at the waters edge. Slowly down our pace, we are on the hunt for unique creatures. Some only found here in Papua New Guinea. Three maroon harlequin ghost pipefish blend in with a crinoid. Sounds from regulators indicate that everyone is excited by the find. Anything that comes out from the sand can be a point of interest and the tube anemones have a host of peacock shrimp with spotted tiny tails and tazuma shrimp, which rotates around the stalks of the anemone when spotted. Signal gobies filter at the sand along our journey to a collection of dead corals in the shape of a large roof. The coral look like bones covered in red algae. Within lies the rainbow colored Mandarin fish. Fluttering its fins and a rapid pace, the methodical swimmer pecks at the algae laden corals. A good number of fish are sighted.

The next morning is a short run to the beaches of Luadi. A choice of Deacon’s reef with corals and walls in clear water or jump off the back of the boat into a wonderland fish. The group gets hawksbill turtles gliding over the reef. Coral pedestals rise from the bottom. Balled up anemones perched on smaller coral formations. Laudi has octopi looming right above their dens there were built out of rocks harvested by the octopus. They slide down the rocks into the liar when divers approach. Chromodoris nudibranchs are patched on the rock bank. Mantis shrimp of red, blue and green are lured out with a dragging of a stick as they snap with glass shattering claws at the stick. If you spend a week on the 8-foot deep reef you still wouldn’t seen everything Laudi holds. Cuttlefish mix in with a sloping tree branch and leaf pile. Wrapped in the Elkhorn coral, a giant 6-foot long moray eel has only its head coming out. It is just one of those sites that you can talk about but once you dive, you will understand the excitement one has when experiencing it personally.

Jay, our 16-year-old diver on board this week celebrated his 100th dive at Whompers. Jay loved the trip and his favorite was to sit in the current with his father, James and watch for big fish to pass in the flowing water. Jay jumps into the water. Heads down the line to the monstrous pinnacle. Making a quick turn down, Jay finds the coral ridge at 70 feet. White tip sharks run the ridge. Hard coral sit atop the ridge with plenty of anthias hiding in them. Doing a couple of turns around the pinnacle and we are on the top with groupers and titan triggers. A grey reef shark cruises at 100feet into the blue. Surfacing, Jay is greeted by a traditional celebration cake of raw eggs, flour and strawberry syrup and a dunk back into the ocean to wash all the ingredients off. Happy 100th dive Jay from all of us onboard Star Dancer.

Little China and Linda’s Reef are bhommie dives. Current is slight with barracudas gathering at the tip of the reef to sit in the on coming current. Seas of anthias undulate with passing guests. Heading down to hide in the hard orals then rising back out with waves of orange then racing back for shelter on the next guest. Spanish mackerel live on the outskirts of the reef only coming through for hopes of a meal. Dogtooth tuna join the mackerel in the blue. Sloping walls are filled with impressive xenia patches amongst the plethora of soft corals.

We have a treat to day with Peer’s reef. The current is moving the right way and a drift dive is in store. Everyone is in the dinghy and off to the tip of the reef some 300 yards ahead of Star Dancer. Back rolls in and going straight down. Easy as that, we follow the current through sand chutes and reef walls. We have a turtle following with us then making it’s way deeper down the reef. The reef elbows and we find protection behind a vertical wall. The top of the reef is only 10 feet deep but is a garden of hard corals with hundreds of tropical fish.

Changing the pace, we head over to Bunama Village for porcelain crabs fanning out with their claws wafting in plankton on the anemones and emperor shrimp on the sea cucumbers. Fire urchins comb the bottom. A trip into the village to see the school and church with the children joining us in their canoes staying the whole day at the stern watching our every move like we are from a different planet.

Crinoid City is a favorite with cuttlefish, more mackerel and two stonefish that sit right next to the mooring line. Three white tip reef sharks make an appearance with a big school of skipjack following over the edge of the reef. Wiggling garden eels come out of the patch of sand at 70 feet.

Papua New Guinea is not only a paradise of underwater adventure but the people are just mystical as alluring. The canoes that venture out to Star Dancer each charter to bring fresh fruits and vegetables for trade and the parrots, cockatoos and great hornbill birds that fly through the canopy are a topside photographers delight. In all the words one can describe Papua New Guinea, it can never fully grasp the essence. The only way to understand is to smell the air, feel the ocean surround your being, stare into the eye of a villager as they stare back at you with the same wonderment. Be part of it yourself. It is a life changing time.

For The Ocean,
Captain Lowel

Star Dancer Captain’s Report June 5 – 15, 2012
Crew: Captain Lowel, Trip Director Melissa, Dive Guides Eddie and Ben, Chef Daisy, Stewardess Sine and Engineer Jerry.

 

[Dancer Fleet]

A day in the life of a traveler of Papua New Guinea is to live for the moment. Walking outside the cabin while at anchor in a half moon bay where the night before at land’s end, fires are lit that burn through out the night. Faint shadows mask the orange blaze from time to time, as passing villagers make their way in the darkness. The morning comes, the sun cresting over the dark forest green canopy, fishing canoes are caught by the encroaching sun beams, silhouetting them in black with the sky filled with crimson and azure. Dolphins gather at the bow of Star Dancer in an imaginary race against everything and nothing at all. The yacht picks up speed. The bow rises over the glassy reflection of water only to come down from a peaking wave and shattering the liquid mirror over and over again. Perched on the catwalk above the bow, the breeze catches your face; crisp ocean elements fill your senses of freedom… of nature. Only the spans of the sea and the blotted islands on the horizon are your boundaries… you exhale. There is something truly magical to be felt here.

Dirt paths are roads and thick-callused feet are the main source of transportation through the thick jungle foliage that seems to sprout through every puddle of milky mud. Overpowering is the moist aromatic scent of vegetation mixed with the salty vapor of the ocean.

Each sight and sound is more foreign than the next. Something that is heart felt and can never be forgotten is the crisp sensation of the ocean encapsulating us in a world of mystery only to be opened by heading into her depths with wide eyes and pounding hearts. A falling cliff into the abyss is the start of our ocean adventure. Star Dancer sits above in the rock of the waves. All we have is blue in front of us. Pushing water with each kick the blue fades, non-descript rock formations become sharper. A solid mass lies ahead. Striped oblong shaped fish as big as a dinner plate come in numbers skirting the wall. The faded silver reflects in unison as each wiggling tail of batfish moves the school down the foreboding wall. Laced sea fans branch out like huge elephant ears from the wall. The wall gives way to a ridge that slopes at slight angle. Clusters of bubbled anemone tentacles play home to gregarious anemone fish that bounce from each stinging appendage to the next. We tuck away for the night in a well-protected half moon bay with the light of village fires illuminating the waters off in the distance.

Leaving the sanctuary of the Nuakata Island Bay, just off the main end of Papua New Guinea’s east cape, the seamounts are scattered about in the underwater desert of sand where an oasis rises up from the depths. The waves running over the shallow coral bed creates a surge of water flow leaving the branched leather corals whipping around like an 80’s hair band musician. The top of the reef protected by antlered elkhorn corals. Rocking in the surge anthias and neon damselfish sway. Time to find deeper waters to explore. Dipping deeper the current is slight but the banner fish line horizontally. Electric nudibranchs shine from the sand bottom clinging to rough patches of coral. The yellows and light blues of the slender bodies stand out on the seabed. The seamount is small enough to circumnavigate and as you follow the slope it turns into a vertical wall with part of the mount broken off to form a deeper coral hill with a very well hidden crocodile fish lying motionless atop a coral outcropping. Yellow tailed fusiliers follow one another through the gap of coral creating a swarm of blue and yellow. Rounding each turn, more and more fish begin to gather. Three large brown and tan grouper leave the cracks in the corals as our bubbles scare them away. Around the final turn until we reach the yacht, an underwater meadow of yellow soft coral rolling with down the escarpment.

Current begins to pick up in the waning afternoon sun. It is a good chance to see the bigger animals that inhabit the reef when the current flows outwardly. A long fingered portion of the reef is shrouded in blanketing coral filling the water with vibrant colors. Puffy sweetlips rest on top being cleaned by numerous black and blue cleaner shrimp hovering in the patches of corals. The tubular bodies of the clarinet fish are hard to see above the sand but 6 of these long skinny fish rest right under the boat. The sky darkens, as Erik looks overhead. The white underbelly of a huge manta shadows for an instance as it keep heading into the current.

With plenty of sea mounts to explore, the engines rev to a wide open throttle in the morning mist as the new day is met with calm seas, the orange radiant sun breaking through and Linda’s on the horizon. Deeper than most of the sea mounts, the terrain is broken away yielding black coral stalks like pine branches of a great forest meshed beside pink and purple sea fans. Tiny Denise pygmy sea horse with their orange splotchy pigmented tails twist next to one another. The fan is busy with guests shooting away at the little marvels. Moving forward away from the group, the wall bows out then sharply cuts inward. Xenia soft coral in massive bunches open and close clinging to food that might fall in the path of the small polyps mouth.

Chef Daisy fills our plates with a tasty treat for lunch and a leisure nap in the early afternoon; we then head to Little China. Hard coral stacks build the mighty reef up to the surface. A good hiding place for the Milne Bay epaulette shark. Only a few feet long, the spotted shark likes to wedge itself in the corals during the day and come out at night to hunt for small crustaceans and fish that might be in its path. Cuttlefish are always looming on the top of the reef in cracks and crevices.

During the night we say farewell to the outer reefs as we sail a course to Gonu Bala Bala and its epic diving experience. Making sure the divers are ready and well briefed. A short dinghy ride and a back roll and the descent. Resting on the bottom we wait. We move along the sandy bottom 40 feet and wait again. Three large mantas are being cleaned. Over a small coral head they circle and circle. Thirteen guests sit as their bubbles go from small slow exhalations to more frequent and large bubbles. The feeling you have seeing such magnificent animals can never be penned. Just to have a 15-foot manta glide over your head just inches away as it passes without sound or ripple in the water is just incredible. To share the water for an instant let alone one complete dive is priceless. The graceful beasts soar away when our air begins to run low and we head back to the boat. The boat is a buzz with excitement and the encounter they have just shared. It is only the beginning to a day to never forget. Steel piling met by old cement, Samarai Wharf on this day will be of legend. Right under our boat sits a tassled mouth wobbegong shark; a devilfish fish is mingled with the rocks just outside of the sharks. Our dive guides have the keenest eyes. The pier is alive with schools of baitfish that cloud the water. Four cuttlefish line up in the shallows along with a rare winged pipefish next to a toadfish. Schools of lion and batfish gather in large number on the pilings. A snowflake eel hides in the rock and the moving water pushes a pregnant seahorse. A stonefish wish mistaken for a rock when a treble hook lodged in its side was going to be removed. An octopus peaks out between two fallen pilings. So many things. It is the best wharf dive of the world. You can’t really put the imagines in perspective compared to many places. Papua New Guinea is just one of the special areas that you have to visit once in your life.

Peer’s Reef is a nice drift dive with just a slight bit of current. The formations on the top are beautiful and plenty of cleaning stations. Jacks and grouper sit on the top and a nurse shark doesn’t stay for long when we get close to the rocky outcropping it lies under. There are so many fish that they begin at the surface and file down to the reef’s edge. Turtles are regular sightings and we have two turtles right under the boat. Crinoid City is a good way to end the day. More epaulette sharks are seen and we lure a whitetip reef shark in and a grey reef. Sandy bottoms have garden eels with Spanish mackerel coming in and out of the reef.


Now on to the North and the sheer walls that drop thousands of feet below. Wahoo Point boasts a large selection of pelagic. We are treated to a school of 6 mobular rays gliding along the wall’s edge. Titan triggerfish seem to flock here. Nudibranchs such as chromodoris seem o be everywhere. Michelle’s Reef is a sloping sand bank that has hidden treasure. Small creatures are what we are after and we have plenty to see. Every feathery crinoid has at least one harlequin ghost pipefish and there are some with 3 large adults. We have a harlequin ghost pipe fish next to two of its close relatives, robust ghost pipefish. The harlequin is more ornate and the robust is more stick like. Two different versions very close to each other. A two-inch tall seahorse wraps its tail around a small twig coming from out of the sand. We have several nudibranchs species that inhabit the sand. Signal gobies sift through sand. A pile of coral rubble has mandarin fish fluttering out during the day. What a great chance for pictures.

Laud and Deacon’s follow up the previous day’s action with a hammerhead sighting off Deacon’s Wall and octopi sit in the shallows out in the open. Easy to approach, they sit on rocks flashing color after color. More harlequin pipefish on crinoids. Mantis shrimp spread through out the dive sight.

Heading over to Duchess Island for our last full day of diving, we have a day of sharks and very clear water. Grey reef sharks are at every turn. The pinnacles harbor life everywhere. Our guides have a way with the sharks and one grey gets within 8 feet. We have an eagle ray pass and on the smallest piece of coral, a soft coral crab rests quietly.

The dives at Gonu Bala Bala and Samarai Wharf were such an amazing experience; we decided to try our luck again on the last two dive of the charter. Three mantas again at the cleaning station. Yet again the guests were blown away by the experience and Samarai once again had wobbegongs and an unidentified eel not in the books. Maybe a new species found by the Star Dancer.

For The Ocean,
Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain’s Report July 3 – 13, 2012

Air temp: 74 – 81F
Water temp: 81F
Vis: 25 – 70 ft
Topside: Rainy to Sunny
Seas: Light Chop to Flat



Just as the anchor burrowed into the tiny pebbles for the night, it raises without fight back to the mothership. Keeping Samarai Island to the left of us and the green ridges of Logia to the right, a narrow waterway is our path. Canoes sit in the middle of the channel in the early morning looking for elusive tuna and mackerel that use the channel for morning hunts. Dodging around the small dug out crafts, the white sand beach of Deka Deka is a picture of a post card paradise. Blue waters that lead into a beach blanketed in white sand with the background of coconuts trees. Only having a few moments to get a close pass of the island we find Gonu Bala Bala awaiting us.

One lonely coral head is the center of attraction for up to 10 large manta rays. We approach slowly not to disturb the bliss of the moment. The view of black and white mingling together is breath taking. Each trying to be cleaned atop the coral.

Welcome to Samarai Island. After lunch we explore tiny island that was the hot bed of commerce and trade since the turn of the century. The island is a shadow of it’s once glory and the only means of trade is the local pearl cultivator and a local market that happens every Saturday. Trumpet fish hang face down along the pilings. A fallen piling has two wobegone sharks resting peacefully under them. The gazing upward stare of a stonefish catches our eye. A venomous fish, the stonefish looks like a bulldog with fins. Short and almost all head, the fish has a difficult time swimming along the bottom once spotted. Two cuttlefish flash an attention-grabbing color display. The hypnotic pattern runs down its body. A group of 15 razorfish skirt on the bottom moving with the bottom over coral heads. We see hidden under a small metal grate is the wiggling juvenile oriental sweetlips. This species of fish has all the juveniles frantically whipping their tails but not moving very far from its spot. Like a hyper active child in a small room. Two types of flathead rest on the bottom as well. The crocodile fish and black flathead rest easily and rely on camouflage to conceal their positions. A night sail to with a full moon and cloud patches and stars are the best way to end this day.

To get into deeper water with a freight train speed dive we head to the vertical of Peer’s Reef. Sometimes the current can be unmanageable with speeds in excess of 3 knots howling across the shear face of the wall. We are in luck that the current has not picked up and we are able to fasten to the mooring without delay. The current is very light and with a few flutter kicks we can take in all the beautiful of the wall while still being able to rise above and enjoy the fantastic coral formations see what lurks around them. The stripes of the banner fish are hard to miss as well as the streaming ribbon dorsal fin. A cluster of these white, black and yellow fish like to feed right off the wall in an unorganized line extending down the coral face. Grouper like to tuck into crack in the wall and perch on ledges but the grouper that would could not identify was massive… a genetic anomaly. The goliath’s head was a square box, one yard high by one yard wide with thick lips and a menacing scowl. We did a double take just to make sure we are seeing this fish. Not hanging around for us, the fish peals from the reef and bolts out of eyesight. The only thing you could see was it’s tail, the size or three palm fronds put together and the muscles on the lower body flexing to propel the leviathan away. The drift has picked up gently and we float back to the mooring and await our second dive. Topside we relax on the lido deck sampling another tasty treat by Chef Daisy.

Underwater peaks and valleys fill the waters here in Milne Bay. Great stretches of water only run a few hundred feet deep that rise up to just 20 feet. This is ideal diving country. Coral polyps are released in the mid water and are caught by the current until they touchdown on a surface in which they begin there sedentary life. Sprouting out in all shapes, colors and sizes. The corals need the sunlight for photosynthetic purposes of creating food in small algae that live in the corals. A majority of this photosynthetic life happens from just a few feet below the surface to 130 feet where light begins to be lost. The terrain here is perfect for abundant coral life to blossom. Cherie’s Reef is covered with such corals varying from hard plate corals on the top of the reef to delicate two toned florescent carnation corals and fields of leathery-branched soft corals meandering on the outside edges of the sloping hill. The windy coral paths are bathed with life’s natural paintbrush of brilliance and allure. Endless flights of fins mingle with the sway of the green anemones that have maroon striped clownfish swirling in the tentacles. Moorish idols juxtapose as they pan from the left side of view to right making their way past the vision of a mask frame. Jade covered scales with a peering ever watching eye of a giant Napoleon wrasse just keeping at the edge of the visibility. Just enough to keep temptation of an encounter possible. We finally give a reluctant turn back to the yacht. Right under the boat is one of the more rare sites. The charcoal black rhinopias poised on two rocks sits unmoving. Gathering a crowd, the psychedelic fish welcomes our chance to take photos.

We have current so what better way of finding bigger animals is to leave the sandy meadows and coral bhommies and find deeper water where the pelagic run. Cobb’s Cliff Ledge hangs over a 3,000-foot drop. The out going tide is perfect to secretly beckon mantas from their hiding. The bowl shaped inside of the dive has a deep dropped sand pocket while the outside of the reef is a shear drop. Flutter kicks are enough to make progress with the tarnished yellow of the adult batfish school that keep close to us. The water flows on our mask, arms drop to the side, legs stride with a scissoring action. We are very rudimentary in the water. From overhead mimicking the great wingspan of a graceful eagle, a manta soars silently long the coral ridge. At sunset, the nearby island of Boi Boi Waga releases a hidden act, which happens every night at the same time. Flying foxes leave their trees and begin to swarm over the island. The light fade more and the bat like creatures fly out over the ocean headed to the mainland to find insects and villagers gardens to feast on local fruits. The foxes number in the hundreds as they flap over Star Dancer.

The beauty of the morning of mountains and mirrored sea and running over the water to the first of our dives at Duchess Island is well worth the early start. Large splashes are seen off in the distance when a large marlin leaps from the water on the hunt - 6 times it rockets skyward. Surrounded in pinnacles and long coursing ridges, Whompers sits in the middle of it all. The round top of the pinnacle that we are attached to is showered in yellow cabbage coral. We have been having regular sightings of grey reef sharks and white tips. Enticing the fish to come closer in, a few tuna heads are positioned perfectly in the reef for close up encounters with a guest favorite. Our first is has a little success of a black tip reef shark and one white tip. The current pushes the scent of the filleted tuna out. On the second dive we plunge into the deep azure waters hugging the round tower shape of the pinnacle. Scaling up the wall, coming right at our submariners is a large finned mass. Our veins run with electricity, our hearts pound with excitement at the spectacle in front of us. Broader than a grey reef shark, the square headed brute pivots its girthy body sideways to reveal the unmistakable vertical markings of the majestic tiger shark. The black eyes of the shark seem to stand out as the shark levels out right below us. As soon as it came, the shark is lost in the stream of visibility.

Following the coastline of Normanby Island, Star Dancer dares the narrow channel of Observation Point. A shallow reef to the right and a small island directly on the left, the dark blue water traces our path in a small lagoon setting. The anchor is dropped and we back right up to the shoreline with the stern line tied off to the port side cleat. Our beautiful back drop of mangroves with roots rising out of the water and small rock outcroppings are just candy for the eyes and the lens. Just as eye popping are the creatures that dwell just below the surface. Starting at the surface, the white sand made up of little rock pebbles falls quickly. Carpet anemones push away the sand with spotted porcelain crabs ride the under side of the stinging anemone. Squat anemone shrimp wiggle their spotted abdomens in a hypnotic motion. A very small devilfish or demon stinger is shuffling up the steep incline of the sand. The minute sand pebbles keep sliding down the embankment as the frowning faced fish keeps pushing with it’s claw like pectoral fins without progress in climbing the slope. A small sea horse actually swims to the surface with fins beating at a hummingbird wing pace. Usually we find these guys clinging to the alameda grass or to an old tree branch with tails wrapped tightly. A neat looking species of seahorse, pointing looking thorns create a ridge of spikes down the spine. The sun was setting and all through out the dive site there were long white tubes clustered together attached the alameda grass. Squid eggs. Losing the sunlight the squid came from out of nowhere and began to spawn!!! A rare chance to watch as 14 squid hovered, changing colors with their chromatophores firing away. A shimmering pattern of rustic red. The squid would come down from the water column in groups of two to the clusters as the new egg sacks were placed with the rest. Soon as they touched down they would rise up again in the now when faded water. We sit watching the squid escapades until the light was completely lost.

Our Wahoo Point experience was complete with Spanish mackerels right off the tip of the points. The sun radiated down to light the fields of xenia corals. Big billowing cotton like patches pushed together in pink glory over the top of the reef. Elkhorn coral table with their antlers point up looking like a chandelier inverted.

Michelle’s Reef has been very productive to find harlequin ghost pipefish in large groups in the feathery legs of crinoids. With recent rainfall we had branches still green with leaves that were scattered about. The crinoids still harbored the artfully designed harlequins. The fun part was finding in the branches and leaf stacks three different species of robust ghost pipefish. Two long slender robust looks like fresh bark floating amongst the branches. Stingy hair came from the bodies in a perfect matching pair. A smooth dirty yellow robust clung to the middle of another leaf pile and right above that were a small green alameda pipefish and brown robust. The brown robust was trying to get the alameda to leave the area by pecking at it with its long snout. Michelle’s was loaded with every kind of pipefish species. Banned pipefish in the corals and a small brown seahorse found in 70 feet of water. Right next to the sea horse was a painted frogfish no bigger than half of a fingernail. The little white and orange fish stood out in the sand. To top it off, we had our sunset mandarin fish dive and a juvenile batfish covered in black with an orange outline wrapping around its entire body.

A full day of diving is never enough to be able to take in all the interesting avenues of diving Laud and Deacon’s Reef. We steam to Laudi Village in the misty morning light with jungle-covered lands rolling into the sea. Over hangs of tangled vines come right down to the water. Following the foliage on the left, we hug close to the point. The mountains rise straight up until we round the point and the wall of green curves outward. A panoramic view the forest green leaves covering the background. Creeping clouds reach over the mountaintops and break apart plummeting down the mountain. White cockatoos stand out in the canopy and the banana shaped beak of hornbills are a quick way of seeing these large birds that fly the length of the trees. There is not a ripple on the water here. The cove is protected and it is a wonderful place to spend the day. Star Dancer pivots in place as the anchor is dropped and we go astern with the engines. Backing up to an awaiting line we tie the boat off bow and stern as the lines go tight. The choice of diving the wall of Deacon’s or the black sand slope of Laud is always a tough choice. Most like the ease of dropping off the back of the boat and looking for the bizarre things that live on the slope. We had yet another painted frogfish sighting. This one was the same colors like the one at Michelle’s but was quite a bit larger. Easy to see, the guests loved the opportunity to gaze at this find. Running from the shore is a leveled out area full of small boulder shaped coral heads. Two octopi sit next to one another as the mating ritual begins. The male extends his tentacle to the female. Not seen too often we are very lucky this week to see both squid and octopi mate. We have mantis shrimp in their holes and a fierce looking moray free swimming from coral to coral.

At Tania’s we finish off a great charter of sightings. The current is moving and we have grey reef sharks off in the sand bottoms with yellow damselfish pointing together in the current. To put Papua New Guinea with any other location would be giving no justice to the extraordinary experiences awaiting you here. Villagers sitting in canoes in the distance to gothic scenes of bats flying in the setting sun and pristine reefs to explore, Papua New Guinea will fulfill our topside and underwater senses with wonderment.

For The Ocean,
Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain’s Report July 17 – 27, 2012

Crew: Captain Lowel, Trip Director Melissa, Dive Guides Eddie and Ben, Chef Daisy, Stewardess Sine and Engineer Jerry

Air/Water Temp: 74 – 85F/ 81F
Vis: 50 – 100 ft +
Topside: Sunny
Seas: Calm – Light Chop

An excited group from the wine country of Napa, California has made their way half way across the world to join the always lively action here in Milne Bay. The weather looks great for the charter and blue skies greet us as we slip into the deep blue in Milne Bay. Star Dancer rocks up and down in the small swells. High range mountains fall away to the vast blue. A long sweeping right turn around a green covered mountain. Samarai Island is on the horizon, passing throught the China Strait, the anchor is set for the night.

The morning is full of mantas!!!! Skimming the surface with mouths agape funneling in the small planktonic life right below the surface. Four mantas line up one after another. We sit bobbing with snorkels watching the manta show!!! Underwater we have small nudibranchs, cuttlefish and eels are scattered on the reef. The afternoon is spent at Samarai Wharf with Wobbegong sharks, cockatoo waspfish and a large school of batfish.

A run out to the outer reefs at night gets us ready for the sea pinnacles. Little China is loaded with hundreds of fish on top of the plateau. A current brings all the fish to one side of the reef. Dog toothed tuna pass back and forth in the current with rainbow runners. Linda’s Reef has beautiful pygmy seahorses attached to the fans. Two of them sit close together for a great photo opportunity.

Jason’s Reef has a great display of nature. A small bait ball lingers in the current; three grey reef sharks, two white tips and a silver tip accompanied by two giant trevally circle the bait. One at a time they break formation and make a straight path in the middle of the bait. This lasts for 10 minutes until the bait ball is gone. Crinoid City has large schools of rainbow runners and barracuda sitting in the current.

Boirama is beautiful today. The visibility is absolutely amazing. More sharks and barracuda plus we have a few secret treats hiding in the reef. A frogfish and harlequin ghost pipefish sit hidden but our diver guides are great at finding things. We head over to Bunama Village where we find anemones with tiny shrimps and porcelain crabs.

Cherie’s has a napoleon wrasse sitting on top of the reef. Large schools of anthias are everywhere and it is just an amazing sight to see. Cobb’s Cliff has a manta making a fly by with batfish following us. Another harlequin ghost pipefish is found in the sand.

Whompers has sharks!!! Grey reefs, white tips and a black tip circle the pinnacle. Fish are everywhere and a hawksbill turtle drift off in the current. Calypso has cuttlefish hidden in the elkhorn coral. A soft coral crab blends in with the purple carnation corals.

Wahoo Point brings us to our first dives on the north side of the land mass of Papua New Guinea. Blue fusiliers dance in the current as the fish line the ridge downward. Michelle’s is a black sand paradise. Ghost pipefish, mandarinfish and many other tiny critters are seen.

Laud has everything you want to see. Blue ring octopus, harlequin shrimp, reef octopi are everywhere and seahorses. We have a beach bonfire at night with all the guests reflecting on the fantastic trip they had.

For The Ocean,
Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

The grey clouds come in patches. Light misty drops coat the windowpanes with a halfhearted layer of moisture. The morning breaks with calmness of sea and of spirit. It will be good to get back out to sea again. To share the beauty of Milne Bay with a lucky handful that grasps the world and asks for more out of it than most. As the morning wanes, the cloud burn away and the lazy blue of the sky seems to mesh with new white clouds that have replaced grey. The flight into Alotau is short flight from the frantic Capital of Port Moresby. The small looking glass of a window is your first looking into the true breath of Papua New Guinea. The breath is green from the continuous rolling mountains. The Owens mountain range has never seen a shade of brown. The cotton textured clouds part to the view of deep blue with outlines aqua and green where the tiny islands sprout sporadically. Palm oil tree fields have been leveled with the old trees pulled with their fruitful bounty depleted and a new row of palms have been planted to bring a new crop that will last another 20 years. The airplane door cracks open, ducking under the low level hatch the sun forces eye to squint. Warm air fills the cabin as you take the first steps on Milne Bay soil. Standing a silent guard is an anti aircraft gun painted lime green at the edge of the building. A relic of the past and a reminder of a brief moment in time. A bleak contrast to Port Moresby, Alotau is hidden in high-rise mountains that are alive and vibrant. The short van ride to the yacht passes by the palm tree fields once again this time giving a closer look than the overhead fly by in the plane. The locals call the uncut jungle” bush” and the ride is filled with side views of thick patches of unattended foliage followed by small road side thatched roofs attached to a rough wooden structure where locals sell noodles, rice and the local favorite trio of Buai (betelnut), Daga (mustard root) and kanban (coral lime powder). These three ingredients are a continuous daily staple that is chewed to get a rush of energy and a tell tale sign of a local chewing buai is the brick red smile they give. The concoction turns from a bland white powder and soft nut to a deep orange red in a matter of seconds once chewed. It stains the teeth and the soil because spitting is a frequent action when chewing which walking in town can be a laborious task dodging the stained terrain. The short ride is quickly over and time to board Star Dancer and make way for the bio diverse waters in Milne Bay. The sail is smooth and refreshing. The yacht is secured after our trek through the seascape, driving past wide spread mountains and villagers in their canoes fishing in the last light of the day. The moon rises high and shines bright down on us casting a shadowy glow on the old capital of Milne Bay as the anchor sets in the coarse sand. Wispy winds blow over the port bow in the morning. A grey sheen glosses the water. The sea runs up the freeboard of the bow. The island of Gonu Bala Bala is closely approaching and our crew is ready to splash down off the bow and attach our mooring line to a submerged chain. From the Lido deck use can look down and see the bottom with wavy lines of sand and dark brown deposits of biomatter. Ready to get in the water, the countless seconds of travel have come down to the first entrance into Papuan waters. As alluring as advertised, the veil of mystery is taken away and we get our first glimpse at the wonders that lie before us. One of the great experiences that not many people get a chance to behold is being in the same area as a creature that is larger than you by a considerable difference. At times we get too caught up in a world of need for little things, things that bring us a quick satisfaction but soon leave us empty or on the search for more. Here, we get caught up in wonder, of disbelief in awe. The water is misty and just out of range you make out a figure. Something that you have never cast your eyes upon. Something so foreign that you squint in hopes of clarity of the shape. A line of black and white is the only distinction and yet still coming closer. The first time you peer into a manta’s eye you see something more. Something that peers back at you with the same heart felt splendor of the sharing the same space. It is make the heart race, it inspires and to the core it is a feeling of peace. These animals pass you. If you block their path and they adjust and when you think their wing in mid stoke will graze you, it has already slipped by keeping in rhythm with no break in motion. We share the same space and we are bigger yet small in the world than we ever have been. We are lucky to have multiple mantas at the cleaning station. That need that you are looking for to get you through to the next moment is lost in time. It is gone. After a dive with the manta you are more fulfilled. The imprint of this dive will stay with you and when it comes to fill the void of need this dive has enough to keep filling your cup endlessly. Rounding the final turn, Samarai wharf’s old charm awaits us. The current is moving and the fish mingle past the bow of Star Dancer. A school of more than 100 are easy to approach and we can swim right through them. Beaten down pilings are good spots to see pipefish and nudibranchs. Four different species of pipefish are found in the debris under the wharf. Coming out from under the wharf, a woebegone shark is lodged under some remnants. Razorfish swim vertically rising over rocks and bottles in a synchronized mass of fins. Sea urchins blanket a good portion of the sandy bottom and their spikes reach out to be over a foot in length. Although the wharf is run down, it still stands as one of the great dives of the charter and the best wharf dive in the world. The night is lit with the glow of excitement from our first taste of Papuan waters and the forth-coming days of diving on pinnacles filled with fans and countless schools of fish. We rest calmly in the protected waters of Nuakata. The crescent shaped bay is a hospitable rest stop along our way to adventure. The day breaks to the rush of the engines, departing the bay we are out in the open ocean. With Little China as our first stop, the yacht glides up to the site and we ready the deck and our guests plunge in. We have blue around us; diving deeper the faint structure of reef is seen. We head towards the mass. A welcoming of electric blue zip over the reef. Underwater buildings of coral, the cities of the sea keep all fish active and create the basis of the life here. A kaleidoscope of color dance everywhere. Nothing can compare to the reefs here in Milne Bay. Following the reef, we drift past tuna and sharks. Looking up we see the silhouettes of thousands of fish. Blue skies and black outlines are all we see upward. Linda’s reef keeps two pygmy seahorses on its fans and all the guests are happy to get a glimpse of these treats. Finding refuge in a folded fan, the sea horses are bigger than most and are easy to take pictures of. Some time ago the pinnacle split in half and a sandy channel splits the reef. Reef sharks are always patrolling the waters and are always a favorite to get the heart pumping. Headed over to the East Cape, Cherie’s reef is a plateau with a ridged soft coral garden. The current runs one side and the rainbow runners, fusiliers and barracuda line up on the east facing wall then on the second dive the current shifts to the west and an amazing movement of fins lines up to the west. A napoleon wrasse make always seems to be present on this site and the large jade color fish is lingering on the ridge once again. Oriental sweetlips sit undisturbed in the current. Cobb’s Cliff tops of the afternoon. Hanging right in line with the small islands off the tip of the East Cape. This wall finds the deep water just outside the protected south. Winds blow out of the southeast and the small island ahead of us and the shallow reefs shelter the wall. Sea fans adorn the plummeting face and more and more fish gather. The fish are now a swarm. A slight kick in the current is all we have to do to bask in nature’s true beauty. Time to ascend up and over the wall that levels off at 45 feet. Corals tops are our path back to Star Dancer that cast a shadow over us headed back to the boat. Winds pick up and we find shelter behind the landmass of north side of the great isle of Papua New Guinea. Our Wahoo Point experience is filled with many small creature as nudibranchs and cling fish in crinoids are just a few of the wondrous things that are found. Michelle’s creatures are on the list of top things to see in the world. Seahorses and ghost pipefish, robust and ornate sit quietly on the black sand slope. We have the same brick colored cockatoo waspfish rocking in the shallow swell near shore. The mandarin fish are out on the coral mound and the dusk dive to hunt for the fish are not hard to find. The most active time of day for the mandarin fish is a highlight of the charter. We spend the entire day at Deacon’s reef and Laud. The best of both worlds, a beautiful coral setting and wall with Laudi as a perfect jungle backdrop to black sand diving. Turtle pose in the sun at Deacon’s and octopi are out without caution. The octopi here are just a treat to watch. Hopping from coral head to coral head. Changing colors and textures then passing over through the sand to join another. A flying gurnard wiggles over the sand until spotted. Its wings take flight to show off its bright blue hue. Scooting away from us we see just the blue off in the distance. A night in Nuakata and off to Jason’s reef in the morning. A ten story underwater tower dividing the shallow waters and the descent into the vast blue. We have some current again and it brings in the sharks and enormous numbers of other fish. We hug close to the wall free falling down to 100 feet. The fish are above us. Like looking upward at stars in the night sky. The fish are too numerous to count. Shooting stars of sharks cross the horizon shining a glow brighter than the rest of the reef. This afternoon the current has picked up since the morning. Time to go for a ride. Crinoid City is prime for action. We use our current line to bring us down to the dive site. We rest on the tabletop plateau feeling the water rush past. We head down the coral slope and we feel the full force. There sitting in the current we cast our eyes outward. Large schools of barracuda are right outside of arm’s reach. Getting under the current we ride the current along the wall. In a sweeping left hand turn the reef cuts off. We can see silver flashes of the mass of jacks enjoying the water flow. We tuck around some coral and wait. The fish keeping coming and everyone looks at each other in the small band of adventures and we nod. That is all it takes to know that everyone feels the same things, to be alive. Our moments are coming to a close on the reef. We let go from our shelter and drift to the exit point behind the reef in a sand patch where garden eels reach out of the sand waiting for food to cross it’s path. The day has brought us to Bunama village and we get to go on the search for some more amazing sea dwellers. A snake eel combs the shallows for food and once it picks up on us looking at it. It seeks a small hole, which it dives head first into and soon the small eel disappears. Delicate carpet anemones have shrimp, porcelain crabs and squat shrimp to look at. There are a few crinoids clinging to the fallen trees and we have two maroon ornate ghost pipefish blending in with the appendages. Turtle grass grows in the shallows and rocks back and forth with the little swells coming through the bay. Two of the blades of grass seem to move along the sand patches. Beautifully blending in with the environment are robust ghost pipefish. The exotic fish is a treasure to Milne Bay. The village children came from school in the afternoon and saw that Star Dancer was sitting just outside the village. They dropped their bags and the mass of children used our docking line that is attached to a tree to make their way to the boat. Screaming and laughing, the kids played in the water at the stern of the yacht. Not knowing anything other than being bare footed and walking through jungles or travelling to different countries, they are happy. The simple real pleasures of life are being had through out all the villages of Papua New Guinea. These children will probably never see a three-lane highway or think they need the latest items. They find joy in the sea and are amazed at the sight of the pale skinned visitors of Star Dancer. The children splash and more local canoes come with fruits and vegetable to trade and we are treated to an impromptu sing sing on the dive platform. The children stand on the deck and begin to sing. Songs that they were taught in school and church. High pitched, the children stand in a somewhat organized two-line group and belt out an accapella concert that goes through a chorus of five or six songs. Time slows down and we are caught, to listen to the magic of these village children life seems so much sweeter and simple. Our guests are excited to being able to go back to Luadi and Deacon’s reef for another day. The weather was perfect and the surrounding could be some of the best topside on any dive site around. The experience in PNG is like no other. A location with colors, smells and things exotic. In it’s simplicity it is beautiful. The people paddle in canoes, wear clothes with holes without shoes. Their shy smiles are always plentiful. Without much to live by, this land and its people have an incredible gift and life lessons to give the wayward travelers. For The Ocean, Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain’s Report August 14 – 24, 2012

The windy passage leading to the island of Gonu Bala Bala is narrow with a chance to see dolphins riding the bow in the morning. The tiny island of Deka Deka is on our port side. A white sandy beach covers half of the island with aqua water flowing up its banks with coral heads seen through the water close to shore. Dead ahead we set the course to begin the charter with a chance to see mantas in a shallow sand patch that come to feed at the surface or to be cleaned at one particular coral head. The visibility is excellent, some of the best we have had here. A pair of Elysia nudibranchs cling to the broken coral. These nudibranchs are covered with colors of blue, yellow and red. A good start to the fantastic dive. Kicking along the white sand bottom, the patch soft coral mark a trail to reach our rocky destination. We have two broad winged mantas already at the cleaning station as we settle in to watch the mantas circle around the station to get cleaned. The semi circle that we form allows the mantas to freely pass over and exit. The mantas take no particular path to the rock that small fish rise up as the mantas pass overhead. Semi circle that we form allows the mantas to freely pass over and exit. The mantas take no particular path to the rock that small fish rise up as the mantas pass overhead. From out of nowhere they come. We have three flying in and then departing. A nice all black manta come in for a short time, just enough to have everyone marvel at the more rare version. Tracing our path back to where we dropped anchor the night before, he motor up to Samarai Wharf. The sky is hazy in the early afternoon and we take a walk around the once faded capital of Milne Bay. The ground is moist with muddy water patches from the daily sprinkling of rain. We dodge the big puddles then come to the well-groomed grass that is in front of the elementary school. An enormous tree reaches out in front of the school and children make lines in the dry dirt as a makeshift playing field for a game of marbles. An open field with two goal post opposing one another at the ends of the field is silent. We round the corner to our final leg of walk as we pass by building structures that have been falling apart. Locals find shade in such structures and have a chance to sell goods during the day. Making our way back to the yacht where it’s dive to experience Samarai Island from the bottom up this time. The yacht hangs past the end of the wharf and is an easy entrance to follow the pilings of the old wharf down. Fallen piling scattered about are a great place to start our hunt for small creatures. A toadfish is one of the first finds. The broad faced fish with large bluish eyes blends in well with the sand and wood. We head to the right underneath the bow of the boat where large schools of fish create a wall where nothing else is seen except the shiny of thousands of scales. Cuttlefish are common and they like to sit in the debris of garbage that villagers throw off the wharf. Razor fish hang downwards skating on an imaginary line over the bottom. They begin to pile on top of one another making a pyramid. With all lines released, it is time to find the outer reefs waiting for us. Star Dancer pulls away from the block of concrete that once held us to pass through the China Strait and open ocean. Pygmy seahorses dwell in the deeper waters and are always the reason why guests come from around the world to view these minute fauna. The splotchy dots cover each small body that hold tight to the pink sea fan that is folded over on itself. Huddling close to one another with a naked eye you can see the little gill plates moving quickly. A group gathers at the sea wall in 82 feet in front of the fan. Lingering over nothing but a watery bottom. Leaving the fan, we drift slowly along the soft coral wall. A ridge that flows down the reach of the bhommie signals us to turn left and glide over the top of the scenic plateau. Hard corals run the length of every dive sight here in Milne Bay and Linda’s is especially filled. A sand gap breaks the wall in two and with the rise of the coral forms a big dome where the Anthias sparkle in the oncoming current. We approach and the Anthias in a sequential flow flutter down to the coral then slowly rise out of the coral again to shine. Time to find the placid waters in Nuakata Bay for the night and out back again to the reefs in the morning. Little China seems to get better and better each week we dive. The dogtooth tuna came out today. Four medium size tuna keep racing amongst the cloud of fish. Snappers sit high in the water trying to be masked by the endless movement of flowing river of fish. Sergeant Majors have been nesting for some time now and the once purple eggs have turned tan and the embryos are ready to break free from their capsules to join the spawn set into the water column to grow and survive until once big enough they join the reef to continue their life cycle. Hawksbill turtles have been seen before the dive at the surface and with a little searching we find one resting in meadow of elkhorn coral. The hard-shelled amphibian is still for a few moments then decides that it has had enough and lifts off the sea floor. Slow strokes with the fore flippers the turtle makes it’s way over the corals. It pauses and stares right into the video camera then makes for the surface to catch a breath of air then back down to the reef. We head to the area of the East Cape with Cherie’s and Cobb’s Cliff. Cherie’s is a beauty ridge of low-lying soft corals where massive sweetlips like to sit in the current motionless as well as a large school of barracuda. Four Napoleon wrasse make their way around the dive site and all the guests were able to cast an eye on the jade beasts. Cobb’s with its coral ridge was just amazing. At the beginning of the dive we had a manta soar overhead as the group journeys along the sheer dropping wall. The silhouette of the manta above us and blue fusiliers, sharks and one eagle ray zip by. Banana nudibranchs have made this place homes with several of the bright yellow bodies with black traced lines attached to the reef Boirama hugs close to Nuakata Island, a short run in the morning we nestle up close to shore with dolphins riding the bow. The dolphins break the surface streaking forward. The channel between Nuakata and Boirama Islands is a narrow. Star Dancer sits atop the sandy patch coral heads and with distinct water colors marking the depths, light blue surface water are the shallows and meshing with that is the azure blue of the deep channel. Sliding over the top of the reef we plummet over the wall to a sand bank that has three short nosed pipefish close to a feathery crinoid with an ornate ghost pipefish. More sharks ride the rest at the bottom of the channel. The desert of sand is on the top layer with coral heads jutting out like an oasis. Gorgonians burst from the rocks with eels and octopi hiding under. The lunchtime we head over to Buanama village in search of the small creatures. We have two cuttlefish to start the dive under the boat and the critter finding just keeps coming. A Flying Gunard creeps up the sand bank spreading it’s wings with a blue painted circles and lines. A yellow seahorse blends in with the algae. Porcelain crabs hide under carpet anemones along with squat anemone shrimp while cleaner shrimp and a handful of other shrimp rest on top. Ornate ghost pipefish are common sightings here and we have a few more around the crinoids. The children of the village have made it a habit of giving a concert off the back of the boat and we had them in the masses. Singing their hearts out for the fun of seeing our guests and having a chance to interact with the glowing smiley faces. The early morning motor is well worth it this morning. The seas are flat as we rest over our next dive. Our shark dive has three black tip reef sharks and four grey reef sharks all circling and making wipe sweeps of the ridge. The shy sharks come in close at 80 feet. The black tips stay close to the reef and the guests are very happy to see the health of the reef by the number of sharks inhabiting it. The idea that sharks are dangerous is a myth that we dispel each week when the sharks have no interest in us other than keep a close eye on the distance we get to them. The site has two mountainous coral ridges to choose from and with plenty of space to explore. Another hawksbill turtle sits on the reef and allow us to come close. The sun shines down to light up the reef. We make it to Observation Point as Star Dancer slips between the shallow reef on the right and a small island on the left. A thorny sea horse lies in a pile of debris with a white colored robust ghost pipefish resting above it. An alligator snake eel really stands out from the piles of leaves. The pinkish red head with white eyes are a big contrast and an easy find yet a very rare find. Just a unique creature. A Peacock mantis shrimp scurries along the bottom trying to find a new home to build. Very camera friendly, it walks then pauses as it rises up then walk then pauses. Then crossing the slope is a school of 10 bumphead parrotfish. Some people get them confused with the Napoleon Wrasse however these leviathans are easy to make out with their pink flat snout and bulbous notch on the top of it’s head. There is so much terrain to cover here and the number of different animals on the checklist of all divers to see is here at Observation Point. Once at the surface there villagers welcome us with trade goods of fresh fruit that I have never seen. Waxy bright yellow gourds on the outside but when you cut the casing it exposes the mildly sweet cherry red seeds that have a fleshy coating that it both eye catching as well as delicious. On to the north side of the mainland mass of Papua New Guinea, Wahoo Point introduces us to the deeper waters that fall down to the thousands of feet deep drop. The wall juts out then tapers back in with over hangs of whip corals, shelves this dart fish hiding in the sand. Cabbage coral grows in a well-kept garden. Titan triggerfish pluck at the coral rubble piles, turning over rocks and pecking away. Time to stretch out the legs on the skull caves tour. A short dinghy ride in and there are two caves to venture into and view the history of the Papuan people. Ancestors’ skulls were kept in caves in this area and walking down the dirt path into the cave is an eerie feeling. Only the light of your flashlight illuminates the skulls. Tucked in several corners, there is a ledge where the main collection of skulls lies. The second cave is even more intriguing. Marching up a small hill of roots and mud, you enter this chamber where the sun can penetrate through and cast sparkling mineral encrusted skulls. The lime runs down the cave and creates a stalactite centerpiece with the lime deposits dripping down on the now sparkling skulls. After the visit Michelle’s is waiting for us. This is some dive. Seahorses, robust ghost pipefish, ornate ghost pipefish, a maroon cockatoo waspfish and a mantis shrimp all within 6 feet of one another. The second dive gets better with our own mandarin fish dusk dive. We are lucky to have several mating pairs the these fish that look like a Jackson Pollock, dancing during the last light of day above the coral mound. To top it off, a deep purple frogfish was spotted under a leave hiding. Everyone was so excited that many made the night dive just to be able to see the fish again. Dawn breaks in the bay of Halewai, Cockatoos fly from coconut tree to coconut tree. The anchor pulls away from the mud bottom. Village Chief Andrew awaits us at Laudi. We rotate the boat so the stern is facing the brown-pebbled shore. Slowly we motor back to where a line is waiting tied off to a tree. The anchor and stern line go tight and we settle about 60 feet from shore. The mountains seem to pull us into the green rolling view. Mist run off from the clouds freshens our face and rows of palm trees line the hills. The ocean is calm and the water is so clear that the coral heads on the sloping bank are easily made out. The deck is open all day and guests are free to dictate their entrance times and this is the place for marathon dive times. The patch coral systems here are overflowing with life. An octopus poised on a rock is getting harassed by two damsel fish, The eight legged annoyed octopus coils one tentacle on top and shoots it out at the attacking damsels then another tentacle fires. The octopus turns bright white with barred markings of black. Time and Time again the pestering damsels swoop in. Rapid firings of the tentacle do little to stop the oncoming assault. Two pygmy octopus are found. These are only 4 inches spread out from tentacle to tentacle. Slithering cautiously, they wedge themselves in between pebbles to hide from predators. We have three different kinds of ghost pipefish here. A Halameda ghost pipefish resembles the algae with the same name. The boxy yellow algae grows out of the rocks and the pipefish blends in so well that it looks like an appendage of the algae. Robust ghost pipefish are scattered in the piles of sticks and leaves on the slope right past the endless coral wall. Ornate ghost pipefish have found several homes in crinoids and sticks coming out of the ground. Under a log a demon stinger is found and the crawled fish grasps the bottom and pushes along. There are only a few charters left until the yacht heads off for new adventures in Thailand. It’s time to make Papua New Guinea an experience that you will never forget. There is just so much to share in this country. From the natural beauty of the lands to the shy yet curious people and if that is not enough there is always the diving that will put your over the edge. We hope to see you soon on this journey. For The Ocean, Captain Lowel

 

[Dancer Fleet]

Star Dancer Captain’s Report August 28 – September 7, 2012 Undefined, the term that can be used to sum up all of Papua New Guinea. Just when you think you have grasped the consciousness of a land still steep in witchcraft and black magic, where men still venture into the bush dressed in bird feather head dresses and palm frond skirts to concoct a receipt for a potion that will be a remedy for healing or ward off evil telwells (spirits), you are handed yet another bend in the jungle trail. The bend is subtle but reminds us that this is still untamed wilderness that the people are not conquerors of land but are meshed together in harmony. Simple life is here and has been and will be for a very long time to come. Many species of fish and creatures have yet to be classified and the term undefined which in turn means there is so much we can still learn for the ocean. The adventure is above and below the mystical horizon in every one of the senses. If you choose it, embrace it and let the simplicity fill you. There is a brief second when you realize that nothing is familiar here and you pause. Dew builds on the elephant ear size green leaves and rolls off to the next. The fireflies have long gone since the previous night’s light show in the tree and bush through out the jungle. The ground is muddy but that is only a distant memory now that you have stepped on the back deck of the yacht. Outrigger canoes speckle the sea and are dwarfed by Star Dancer passing by the mountainous coastal terrain. With each second gone by you wait for the reality of what was your vision of daily life to reoccur. This is life as you have never known and you feel like have been peering into a window that has cast you back hundreds of years in time to this land. A closer look, the villager casts a gaze at you. For a moment everything is foreign then with a look of an inquisitive child, he raises his hand and begins to wave with an earthy smile. The snaking water path leads us to the basin surrounded by several island pinnacles. The silk seas behind Samarai Island are where we find rest and a calming falls over Star Dancer for the night. A far cry from the heaviness of life outside this world, we are captured by smells of ocean and earth in its purest form, untouched by hands of man. Winds wisp the scent of adventure, the desire to become closer to the harmony of nature. The engines fire and this foreign craft cut the waves in two with each falling of the bow. The islands are many and the path is uncertain, to the left is an islands no bigger than the boat itself and to the right is a coastal ridge of rocks rising like a monolith covered in shades of green from the sweeping vegetation that is fresh as the fallen rain. The rocky bottom base at odds with the teal waves crested with white frothy bubbles crashing constantly. Framed perfectly between these two landmasses on the horizon is where we seek. In a few short minutes life will change, it will become more enriched as well as fulfilled. The water is clear, the outline of the meadow of soft coral that sprout from the bleached sand beneath us. The ocean beckons us into her arms. The silent wings of a manta push the creature through and a red lacy object scuttles on the bottom. It looks as though a rock covered in algae has come alive. Lifting up the rock bare two claws and legs, A decorator crab has cut the local red algae off and has attached it to the it’s body as a perfect means of camouflage. On to Samarai Island. The dock is worn and tarnished. The first line is thrown across. The bow spring has the slack taken out and goes tight. Star Dancer slowly inches to the dock. The second line goes across then a third and a fourth. The engines quiet and we have enough time to walk the flower-covered island. The children on the island jump rope and stare through wire fence at the intruders clad in sandals that cross over their feet with big round disc hats that flop down below eye level to battle equatorial sun and the aroma of a mix of chemically enhanced insect repellant and coconut oil sunscreen from the guests’ lathered bodies. The cultures collide with laughs and giggles and the occasional hello. A fishy ocean smell comes of out of the warehouse that belongs to the local pearl cultivator that is harvesting his wire baskets that keep a line of oysters embedded in the cage. The oysters are tossed in a pile and the cages cleared of sea matter to be filled again and hung down into the water where the oysters filter feed on the nutrient rich waters of the harbor. Time for the first hand experience of diving Samarai. The current runs through the pilings of the wharf and a multitude of fish all make their way to the head of the current. A wall of fish glistens in the dull overcast light, blocking out the little sun we have. The shallow are a sanctuary from the current and a rust colored robust ghost pipefish blends with the lost fishing line of a once excited villager that’s glory was lost with one snap of a line. A family of five cuttlefish all varying in size continually splay their trance like patterns of color flashing from their body and even the texture of the animal changes from a smooth to a coarse look. Taking cover in a conical plate coral turned outside down is a unique toadfish. The big eyed fish remains still off a short instance then darts away to more cover. The find of the day was hidden in an encrusted dead oyster shell. Two harlequin shrimp have dragged a red sea star into the dinner plate sized two-piece shell for a meal. Small as they are, they draw a big crowd with a majority of our guests that seasoned in south pacific creatures and are eager to catch a glimpse and a few photos of these cream and blue polka dotted marvels. The gentle rocking lulls everyone to sleep, as the night journey to Nuakata seems to go by quickly. The slight waves fall to nothing as we enter the bay. Just the sounds of the insects in the surrounding bush and the gentle lapping of the ocean on the side of the boat. Outside the confines of the bay we venture. The new day bring entirely different scenery. Little China is packed full of life from the top of the hard coral laden plateau down to the sand that covers the bottom in 110 feet of water. The water is like a soup filled with fish. Everywhere you turn is fish. Fusiliers and Snapper make up a majority of the fish that like they are watchmen keeping a constant vigil in looking out past the oncoming current. Tuna and mackerel are journeymen fish that appear when the current comes through and break the soup field in two as no little fish dare to remain near the local game fish. The slight current gives a few white tip reef sharks a time to rest on the sandy bottom. Crocodile fish remain motionless on the coral rubble trying not to be seem as their scale like skin blends well. This is the heart of diving in Milne Bay. Pristine coral bhommies with hundreds of different species of fish top to bottom. Yet there is so much to remains unseen. We uncover more mysteries at Linda’s. Two pygmy seahorses light up the fading afternoon waters. Cameras focus and strobes burst, the pygmies always bring a crowd. Boirama is one of the dive sites that we have just been discovering lately. The short nosed pipefish and the two ornate ghost pipefish that dwell close to one another are a precursor to of black sand dives. The gapping channel runs through the right hand side of the dive and it sucks through crystal blue waters. The sharks are more active here and scour the shallow ridge that falls abruptly downward. We have a chance to tour the village that is just forward of the bow of the boat and gives us the first look at how island life is lived. The villagers are more than happy to allow us to comb their white sand beach looking for shells and show us the sago-roofed houses. The island is small but the scenery is breath taking. A small hill filled with coconut and banana trees down to white sand and blue waters with hollowed out canoes is a post card moment that each guest is living. Our dive a Crinoid City was by far the best overall experience I have had there. The waters were a deep azure blue that seemed to glow in the morning light. Fusilier trains made their way through the far reaches of the dive and one would have to stop for a few minutes to let the conga line of fish pass by you. A large school of barracuda lingers about in the mid water. Lost in any sense of words, justice can only be served in the experience of today’s dive here. It is what anyone could imagine and yet more. Another opportunity to dive Peer’s reef is one of those sites that you here of in legend and fable, where big things roam. Strong currents and a long run of reef give us the ability to drift comfortably back to Star Dancer. Coming from the blue, the elongated head and constant motion going side to side can only mean the sighting of hammerhead sharks. Two of them move to the edge of the wall and with a few strokes of their tail are back down in the deep. We have a lunch run to Bunama village and a taste of our first black sand diving. Another flying gurnard makes an appearance and the dive is loaded with carpet anemones and shrimp. Cleaner shrimp and peacock-tailed shrimp mingle with squat anemone shrimp and porcelain crabs. A stargazer snake eels’ head breaks the fine sandy bottom. We have ornate ghost pipefish and robust ghost pipefish on the site however down in 80 feet of water we have the crowned jewel of black sand diving. A flamboyant cuttlefish lies in the sand. The dazzling and hypnotic colors to do emerge until we come in for a closer look. Suddenly the animal transforms from a brownish drab to a dynamic explosion of purple and yellow. Over and over, the cuttlefish lights up. A pictured painted in trees cockatoos is painted for us this morning at Michelle’s. Poised over the rock covered ground, endless sticks and branched with their leaves fallen about. One has the impression that seahorses wrap their tail around sticks and sit upright in a regal pose ready for onlookers to bask in the radiance of the animal however the are a tough find just laying face down in the sand. The keen eyes of the crew have spotted six seahorses in total and one very small rough snouted pipefish, another species of pipehorse. We are not done with the pipefish. We have several ornate ghost pipefish and robust ghost pipefish hovering between the mulch. Two demon stinger devilfish crawl their way over the fine sand close to the mooring and a signal or twin spot goby as well. Rocking in the slight swell is another maroon cockatoo waspfish. The mandarinfish are out in numbers during our dusk dive. Our shark dive site is absolutely fantastic. During the first dive we are able to dive with two grey reef sharks but on the second we see the two grey reefs then slowly in the blue more wafting tails are made out. This time the shark pectoral fins are white and black. Then more grey reef sharks show. We follow the slope of the enormous pinnacle where all the action is taking place. One after another the sharks keep a tight path around the reef with a total of seven showing up. Smaller sharks give way to larger. Their curiosity increases as our excited does as well. The frenzy of fins is finally over as we head to the surface. Observation Point follows it up with more spectacular sightings. True clownfish are everywhere with ghost pipefish, demon stinger devilfish, ghost pipefish and another flamboyant cuttlefish. It has been a week of incredible things to view. Laudi and Deacons reef are so close together that we can combine the two dives into one but the diversity and contrast of each site are unmatched. The meadow of coral spread over the seascape of Deacon’s with large coral towers as trees is like taking a stroll through a forest. The fish are hoping in and out of the reef and we get a chance to explore some shallow cave that we surface in the jungle. Another hammerhead shark is spotted right off the sheer wall. The picture fades to more sticks and leaves with pipefish hiding amongst the piles. Making a turn to the right the slope falls into a pebbled bottom with a coral headed plateau. Octopus are numerous and are always out. Blue spotted stingrays frequent logs as cleaner shrimp peck away at the unwanted parasites. A minute grey frogfish hides in the pebbles. Poking its head out of the sand is a rare wunderpus that only stays for a few seconds then meshes into the sand bank again. The charter’s diving ends with Tania’s. The flowing mound of soft coral and hard coral with sharks and a Napoleon wrasse leaves a bittersweet taste. Milne Bay is beautiful, no other way to describe it. The few that come here are treated to pleasure of the senses. Every sight and sound is alive with freshness. I can never put into words this place that has not been tamed, which is a very good thing. For The Ocean, Captain Lowel