Stains on a wing

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

doctormike

ScubaBoard Supporter
Staff member
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
7,730
Reaction score
9,012
Location
New York City
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Hi,

Has anyone seen anything like this before? I was diving for about 10 days (Truk Lagoon), during which time I left my BP/W assembled and attached to my tanks (Aluminum 80s). On disassembling the BP/W at the end of the week, I found these white patches on the wing.

I tried taking the wing into a warm shower and scrubbing the areas with a sponge and soap (baby shampoo), which made them invisible, but then they reappeared when the wing dried.

Any ideas about what this is or what to do about it? Fungus? Metal corrosion deposits from dissimilar metals (tank and backplate)..?

Thanks!

wing.jpg
 
Thanks! You mean like white vinegar? Should be safe for the wing?
 
Looks like aluminum oxide to me.

1) Mix some cream of tartar with straight distilled white vinegar, heat good and hot. Spot-treat and rinse. You won't hurt nylon or the bladder.

2) Just enjoy the "salty" look of used gear...
 
Looks like aluminum oxide to me.

1) Mix some cream of tartar with straight distilled white vinegar, heat good and hot. Spot-treat and rinse. You won't hurt nylon or the bladder.

2) Just enjoy the "salty" look of used gear...

Thanks! As long as it isn't a problem for the wing, I don't care what it looks like.
 
Thanks! As long as it isn't a problem for the wing, I don't care what it looks like.

The hardest thing known to man is of course diamonds. The second is AO, i.e. aluminum oxide. It's what most grinding wheels are made of. Fractured Crystals are nice and sharp. I can't comment on the state of the AO on your wing, but I probably would not want it around the threads that sew it together.

The likelihood of these AO deposits ever causing a problem is pretty small.

Vinegar would be my first choice. Coke has low levels of phosphoric acid, but that's more useful in neutralizing iron oxide, i.e. "rust"

The likelihood of these AO deposits ever causing a problem is pretty small.

They are a reminder that leaving rigs assembled, soaked with an electrolyte (salt water) in elevated temps (tropics) should be avoided if possible.

Tobin
 
They are a reminder that leaving rigs assembled, soaked with an electrolyte (salt water) in elevated temps (tropics) should be avoided if possible.

Tobin

Preach it, brother. That's what I get for being lazy!

I did get a good deal on that wing, though. Rarely use it though, only when diving doubles in a neutrally buoyant exposure suit.
 
The hardest thing known to man is of course diamonds. The second is AO, i.e. aluminum oxide. It's what most grinding wheels are made of. Fractured Crystals are nice and sharp. I can't comment on the state of the AO on your wing, but I probably would not want it around the threads that sew it together.

The likelihood of these AO deposits ever causing a problem is pretty small.

Vinegar would be my first choice. Coke has low levels of phosphoric acid, but that's more useful in neutralizing iron oxide, i.e. "rust"

The likelihood of these AO deposits ever causing a problem is pretty small.

They are a reminder that leaving rigs assembled, soaked with an electrolyte (salt water) in elevated temps (tropics) should be avoided if possible.

Tobin

silicon carbide is higher on the knoop scale than alumina iirc. just doesn't make sense because of the cost/benefit compared to alumina for most applications.
 
Back
Top Bottom