Spot light for strobe

[wetman]

I've seen some rigs that have a mini Q40 attached to the strobe to light up where the strobe is aimed. Has anyone tried a smaller LED light for such a task? I'd think that might be a better option because their batteries last so much longer and since its not a far distance, i'd think their light would be adequate.

Anyt thoughts or experience?

steve

 

[Finesse]

Steve

Whats your intended use??? Day or Night?? Are you shopping for a strobe??

I've seen the small led's used at night .....and there wasnt enough light for the auto focus to work on the camera.

If your shopping some strobes (Ikelite, Inon etc) have models with built in "modeling" lights. I personally have the Ikelite DS-125 ..... and I'm extremely pleased with it...and have had great success with it.

During the day I dont use it. The strobe will generally cover the area you're shooting (as long as the strobe is in the general direction of the subject )

Some have tried laser pointers ....only to find out later that the little red spot ends up in the photo.

Hope this helps

Scott

 

[wetman]

Well, thats the other thing, I'm not 100% sure what they're used for. This strobe stuff is new to me and it will be a while til i can really take advantage of it so i just want to try to learn a bit now.

steve

 

[Dee]

I've used a small Printon-Tec light rubber banded to my strobe for aiming it. I've got a PT-Attitude LED light for the same purpose but I haven't had a realy good chance to use it. It works OK in the lake.

 

[ssra30]

Whatever you decided, I definitely think that modeling light of some sort is very useful. Personally I use the Ikelite DS-125 which comes with a built in modeling light. It is especially useful for macro shots I think. Before I started using it, I often misaim the strobe especially when the object is only several inches away.
It is a bit less critical for subject a bit further away as the strobe would most likely cover it anyway if point in a right general direction. Also if you use macro lens, sometimes it is a bit more difficult to focus the object and modeling light make it easier for the camera to focus.
Night dive is even easier. I double up my modeling light as night light and you know exactly where your strobe is pointing to.

 

[lindner514]

I have a c5050, PT-015 and DS-125...I discovered that using the modelling light made for underexposed shots. With the modelling light off the pictures were in focus and properly exposed. Why do you suppose that was?

 

[ssra30]

lindner514 once bubbled...
I have a c5050, PT-015 and DS-125...I discovered that using the modelling light made for underexposed shots. With the modelling light off the pictures were in focus and properly exposed. Why do you suppose that was?

Hmm, what mode are you shooting with? automatic, full manual, aparture priority? Also, do you use TTL or manual mode on the strobe? Can you post an example picture?
The whole picture is underexposed or just the peripheral?
Generally the modeling light should also make the camera focus easier as well as it gives more contrast to the subject.

 

[lindner514]

I was using manual mode, with the strobe on TTL, probably 1/200 at f8.0...my guess is that the light fools the TTL during the pre-flash into thinking there is more light.
withlamp http://users.abac.com/lindner/withlamp.jpg
without lamp http://users.abac.com/lindner/withoutlamp.jpg

 

[ssra30]

I think you are right. TTL sensor got fooled by the modeling light.
TTL and modeling light is useful when shooting macro as the modeling light will light up most of the picture so you will get even lighting and no underexposure. In wide angle shot or objects that are several feet away, I don't use modeling light as often as it will create a small hotspot. I still think TTL is quite useful generally (being lazy photographer that I am) but thanks to digital camera, I can see right away if TTL does not work then I just switch over to manual mode.