Big Sky Dave
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How do you take split level shots - showing both above and below water?
Split level pictures
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Hi Dave,
The best way is to use a WA lens on a SLR camera. The key thing is to use a diopter on the lens. This diopter is a little darker on the top so that you can get the same exposure on the sky and underwater portions.
The trick is to get the waterline to cover up the split.
BEst done when you can stand in the water as opposed to free swimming.
As for digital point and shoots and things it can work, just have to mess with the exposures quite a bit whilst using a wide angle port
The best way is to use a WA lens on a SLR camera. The key thing is to use a diopter on the lens. This diopter is a little darker on the top so that you can get the same exposure on the sky and underwater portions.
The trick is to get the waterline to cover up the split.
BEst done when you can stand in the water as opposed to free swimming.
As for digital point and shoots and things it can work, just have to mess with the exposures quite a bit whilst using a wide angle port
Dave, as Mike says, this is a lot easier with a SLR and Wide Angle lens. And a dome port, the bigger the better.
There's two big issues: Focus and Exposure.
The focus issue is that underwater, the dome port creates a "virtual image" that the lens focuses on; this varies from 18" to 6" depending on the size of the dome. Out of the water, though, the dome port has no influence on focus.
So, when shooting an over-under, you will need a depth of field from infinity to your virtual image. This is a piece of cake for a (film)16mm (DSLR)10.5mm fisheye, and not that tough for a (film)20mm (DSLR)14mm rectilinear wide angle. Be aware that you'll need about f22, so you may have a slowish shutter speed.
If you have to use a diopter for your dome port in "normal" underwater shooting, then you may have to use a special split diopter. This diopter has been cut in half, so the above water half has nothing in it. These are tough to find off the shelf unless you use Cokin filters, and then only the "A" filters have a chance of fitting into a dome. Subal also makes some, which can be special ordered from a dealer (bring your checkbook!).
So, with the focus issue taken care of, then there's the exposure issue. Depending on the water conditions, you may have 2 to 3 stops of difference between the "air side" exposure and the "water side". Stack on another filter, one with split Neutral Density/clear. I have gotten away without this when shooting in very shallow water over white sand, though, so a bit of planning will help. These filters are fairly easy to find.
A last point is that the center of curvature, for the dome, needs to be exactly at water level; otherwise you end up with a sliver of sky and the horizon obscured (too low) or a view of the top of the water and your fins (too high). As Mike says, try it first in a pool...you'll be glad you did.
There's a few other trivial items, like reflections in the dome, water droplets, and motion blur at the interface, but you'll work those out with practice.
All the best, James
There's two big issues: Focus and Exposure.
The focus issue is that underwater, the dome port creates a "virtual image" that the lens focuses on; this varies from 18" to 6" depending on the size of the dome. Out of the water, though, the dome port has no influence on focus.
So, when shooting an over-under, you will need a depth of field from infinity to your virtual image. This is a piece of cake for a (film)16mm (DSLR)10.5mm fisheye, and not that tough for a (film)20mm (DSLR)14mm rectilinear wide angle. Be aware that you'll need about f22, so you may have a slowish shutter speed.
If you have to use a diopter for your dome port in "normal" underwater shooting, then you may have to use a special split diopter. This diopter has been cut in half, so the above water half has nothing in it. These are tough to find off the shelf unless you use Cokin filters, and then only the "A" filters have a chance of fitting into a dome. Subal also makes some, which can be special ordered from a dealer (bring your checkbook!).
So, with the focus issue taken care of, then there's the exposure issue. Depending on the water conditions, you may have 2 to 3 stops of difference between the "air side" exposure and the "water side". Stack on another filter, one with split Neutral Density/clear. I have gotten away without this when shooting in very shallow water over white sand, though, so a bit of planning will help. These filters are fairly easy to find.
A last point is that the center of curvature, for the dome, needs to be exactly at water level; otherwise you end up with a sliver of sky and the horizon obscured (too low) or a view of the top of the water and your fins (too high). As Mike says, try it first in a pool...you'll be glad you did.
There's a few other trivial items, like reflections in the dome, water droplets, and motion blur at the interface, but you'll work those out with practice.
All the best, James
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James, When shooting over/under with the S2, my preferred lens for these shots is the Nikon 16mm. Great DOF and not as fishy as the 10.5!
as you know the 16 mm uses a rear mounted bayonet style filter. I wish it had the gel mount like the 10.5!
My question is, do you know anywhere where I can get a bayonet split ND filter made?
PS: Taking Gilligan diving here on Guam today. It is a nice treat to finally meet someone from the board.
as you know the 16 mm uses a rear mounted bayonet style filter. I wish it had the gel mount like the 10.5!
My question is, do you know anywhere where I can get a bayonet split ND filter made?
PS: Taking Gilligan diving here on Guam today. It is a nice treat to finally meet someone from the board.
Charlie99
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Sometimes I'll take a shot of a dive boat from the surface and sometimes get a reasonable split above/below shot. More often, though, water droplets on the lens distort the above water part of the picture.
Any suggestions on how to clean the front of a camera housing so the water drips off without leaving drops?
Any suggestions on how to clean the front of a camera housing so the water drips off without leaving drops?
Soggy
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Charlie99:
This may be a dumb idea, and I'm not a photographer, but would something like RainX work? It's transparent and causes water to run off.
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Rain X is a no no
I use baby shampoo in a little bottle.
I use baby shampoo in a little bottle.
Chris, it has been eons since I had a split diopter made by California Precision Service in Sacramento. Their shop is very, very complete (they do NPS stuff) so it shouldn't be a problem.Chris Bangs:
Actually, they are just over the mountains for me, so I'll give them a call and post back if they can do it.
All the best, James
Hmmph. They don't have the glass cutting stuff anymore. They suggested an optician on the island, since there's only a split ring/washer holding in the glass, and they could cut it. Just use glue or a half split-ring to hold it in.
They did mention that they've placed half gels, bonded to a UV filter with mediocre results.
If nobody on the island can do it for you, let me know, and I'll pick up the hunt for you.
All the best, James
They did mention that they've placed half gels, bonded to a UV filter with mediocre results.
If nobody on the island can do it for you, let me know, and I'll pick up the hunt for you.
All the best, James
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