Space between 8" lp 95s on a doubles setup?

[Gravybird]

Just wondering what the gap between these should be with the bands tightened down? I was sold a pair of bands for my lp 95s, and I think I might have been sold a pair of 7" bands. They do fit over the 95s, but not super easy, than the gap between would be just over an inch once the bands are tightened. The isolator looks like it will fit just fine, but it will be all the way home on both valves. Thanks in advance

 

[cool_hardware52]

Just wondering what the gap between these should be with the bands tightened down? I was sold a pair of bands for my lp 95s, and I think I might have been sold a pair of 7" bands. They do fit over the 95s, but not super easy, than the gap between would be just over an inch once the bands are tightened. The isolator looks like it will fit just fine, but it will be all the way home on both valves. Thanks in advance

Most manifolds sold today are 215 mm center to center. 215 mm = 8.46" That means there should be 0.46" between the cylinders.

Keep in mind that the typical manifold is not adjustable, but is in fact "repositionable" The max adjustment is one full turn or less from "bottom" on either side. This is only to allow for positioning the valve orifices relative to each other.

If you have a 215mm manifold and your tanks are 8" dia + 1 inch gap something is wrong.


Tobin

 

[Gravybird]

Ok, so if I understand. about a half inch between tanks? .46"

and the isolator bar should be all the way in on both tanks, with room for one full turn in either direction?

I have never set up doubles, obviously want to make sure this is the right stuff

 

[cool_hardware52]

Ok, so if I understand. about a half inch between tanks? .46"

and the isolator bar should be all the way in on both tanks, with room for one full turn in either direction?

I have never set up doubles, obviously want to make sure this is the right stuff

How I set up doubles:

Assemble *just* the cylinders and bands, tighten the bands

Assemble just the manifold, for current "Barrel Oring" style manifolds screw the valves on all the way and back out no more than one full turn to orient the valve orifices as needed.

Hold the dip tubes up along side the tank necks, to the right or to the left. This allows easy comparison of the assembled width of the tanks and the assembles width of the manifold.


If the tanks and manifold are not pretty damn close stop here and find out *why*

If the spacing of the tanks and valves is the same then:

Loosen the bands and slide on tank down relative to the other.

Screw on one valve and snug it up, don't use the manifold for leverage.

Carefully slide the other tank up as you guide in the 2nd valve. Turn the cylinder to thread on the second valve.

A *big* strap wrench is handy here

Position and tighten the tank bands evenly. As you do check that the Iso bar can still turn. If it binds stop the spacing between the bands and the manifold is off. Find out *why*

The threads on the tank valves to cylinder are large, course and fairly hard to cross thread, and you only need to do one valve at time.

The threads on the iso bar a much finer, ae right and left hand and you need to successfully start *Both* sides at the same time, then you need to keep the heavy cylinders parallel as you try to draw the Iso bar together, pretty easy to screw this up.

Good luck,

Tobin