Some pics and a question

[AndyT]

Taken Sunday 01/04. A friend of mine seems to think my strobes didn't light up the fish properly and that they are too dark. Now I'm beginning to think that maybe my monitor is set too bright and that I am not getting the right final exposure in the images as post processed.

Your thoughts / comments ?

Speckled klipfish

Spider crab

 

[Warren_L]

I like the shots!

It does look a bit like the subject really isn't lit up as much as it could be. Are you using TTL? I wonder if the TTL is the issue here. I used to use TTL with my Ike system, but stopped as I felt it wasn't getting it right all the time, and now I am only using manual settings. Also, look at the shadowing on the images, #1 and #2 kind of looks to me that perhaps you only had the right side strobe going and on #3, the left side strobe.

The other issue could also be that your background has similar tones to your subject. That aside, I like the shots. Good focus, crisp - good detail.

 

[AndyT]

Yes I am using TTL. Perhaps the left hand strobe in # 1 & 2 was partially blocked by the coral, it's out of the shot. I think maybe for #3 I was only using one of the strobes (probably above and to the left) - sometimes it's difficult to use both owing to obstructions.

Many thanks for the comments

Notice the small Sea spider on the crabs back ?

 

[f3nikon]

A ring flash will work better in this case, the camera lens maybe so close (which is a good thing, makes a very clear picture) to the subject that the large strobes cannot be angled in for better coverage. Your are forced into a "toplighting" angle, note the pink coral is blown out.

A common problem with macro photography.

 

[Gudge]

Now I'm beginning to think that maybe my monitor is set too bright and that I am not getting the right final exposure in the images as post processed.

Relying on how the image looks in the monitor to determine correct exposure is very inaccurate because viewing angle and brightness setting will affect how the picture looks. If you camera has the ability to display a histogram for each shot use this feature it is the most accurate way of determining exposure.

For a lesson on how to use a histogram to check exposure read this:

http://www.earthboundlight.com/phototips/histogram.html

 

[AndyT]

f3, a ring flash would be the best solution I'm just not prepared to spend money right now - I will probably go the DSLR route later this year and don't want to buy someting that is not compatible.

I was just concerned that if everyone thought that the images were way underexposed that it could perhaps be me working on a monitor that is not calibrated correctly (I use Spyder2PRO to do that and I had initial problems running it under Win XP 64 bit)

Thanks all for the comments and advice, much appreciated.

 

[RonFrank]

These images look good to me on my non-calibrated 19" LCD flatscreen at work!

As Gudge indicates, use the histogram when shooting, and use it often.

Monitor calibration is great, and as you are using one you are ahead of most computer users who do NOT use them.

It is IMPOSSIBLE to post process an image so it's going to be ideal for all users who view it as most don't even bother to calibrate their monitors using even widely available software like Adobe Gamma. To confound the issue, most browsers are not color aware.

Nice shots. I like the composition of the second best, but the coral is a bit hot.

 

[RonFrank]

A ring flash will work better in this case,

Yes, a ring flash would be a GREAT idea until one got into the water with it, and the entire camera, flash controller, and flash flooded!

Ringflashes have a controller that attaches to the hotshoe, and a flash tube that attaches to the front of the lens. Unfortunately no UW manufacture makes a ringflash for obvious reasons.

Ikelite, and maybe others use a circular flash tube, but that is not the same thing. :shakehead So what is it that you are suggesting he purchase?

 

[Gudge]

Unfortunately no UW manufacture makes a ringflash for obvious reasons.

There are UW ring flashes available. Two I know of are from Athena:

http://www.athena-opt.com/ringflashe.htm

and Inon:

http://www.inonamerica.com/products.php?product_id=3&prodcat=1&subcat=1

A problem with ring flashes is that they can result in a lot of backscatter (you can't adjust the position of the strobe to get the best lighting angle for minimal backscatter). I know of one person experiencing this problem with the Inon Z22 and you should read the very last paragraph of Athena link I posted above regarding their disadvantages.

 

[f3nikon]

LoL!!! Get with the program!

Description:
The INON Z-22 is a multi-purpose, full featured TTL Auto Ring Strobe designed to be compatible with a variety of camera and housing systems using standard Nikon film camera circuitry, or equipment with conversion circuitry to the Nikon protocol. In this configuration both TTL and Manual are possible. (Three Manual settings: Full(22), 1/2(16), 1/4(11) = Air, ISO100 x meter.)

Then he trys to "teach" us on what we already know about ring flashes when I was the one who brought up the Inon ring flash years ago in this forum!

You just have to let it go man!