I will have to reply because I am sure anything with my call sign in it is ignored and will get no replies. But that is such a shame
. Now, I don't think I told you to choose that camera over all others, just of the type you were looking at I provided some input that apparently guided your decision to some degree. Now, did I?
That camera should always provide a pre-flash, it is not user selectable. I think you will need to install the magnet into the little hole with the allen screw to tell the D2000 to expect some sort of pre-flash, the D2000 will take it from there.
Now that you have done that, paying heed to the warning in the manual to install or remove said magnet only --ONLY--when the strobe is OFF-- let's look at the next thing.
Option 1, your Oly has an auto mode and program etc. Just set the thing to auto, set your strobe to sTTL and then set the Oly flash to Forced. The D2000 should snap away happily, adjust flash exposure up or down with the plus or minus knob. This is the simulated TTL mode covered in the beginner manual for the D2000 (there are two manuals correct?)
Option 2, set Oly to auto, set Inon D2000 to External Auto, set Oly flash to auto, set the D2000 plus or minus knob to middle and see if it will fire and sync up when the Oly strobe fires, if so that is an alternate shooting mode.
You can install the Inon Clear Photo film but the deflector should stop most of the light from the camera strobe even without so I consider that optional--maybe--leave that to you.
For natural light, no strobe, set D2000 Off (you can leave it on), set Oly flash to OFF and shoot natural light, no strobe. If you want to force the strobe set strobe to ON and shoot.
Now, as I recently told somebody who was unGrateful, I am recalling this from memory at the moment so please filter my suggestions through your user manuals to make sure I am not leading you astray as I may sometimes get things jumbled a bit.
On the lens front, the dome converter makes the 100-28AD into a whole 'nuther kind of animal but it is expensive. I love that dome converter on any of the Inon 100 series lenses, however, in this case, it could be overkill for your rig. It is large, it is heavy. I think, JMO, you should go with the 100-28AD without the dome converter to begin with at least. I think you will be happy. You should see a FOV of around 100 degrees which is plenty to get some nice wide angle perspectives. (with the dome converter and the 100-28AD it could be as wide as 145 to 150 degrees!!!!!!! note that is diagonal and the result is a semi fisheye lens).
One more thing, many may not know this, the only NiMh battery currently approved that is easy to get for the Inon strobes is the Sanyo Eneloop, but, IMO, the Duracell Precharged, available at Wally World, is the same battery and should work just fine. Do not use other rechargeable NMh batteries in your Inon or it may overheat the strobe circuit.
Unlike the YS110a, the D2000 has an External Auto mode. The strobe calculates exposure, you can use this feature with your 1030 to provide up close fill while the camera will tend to expose more for the background (set camera to evaluative I think it is in the exposure menu if I recall). So, you can play around with it some like that, also if you get creative you can vary the 1030 exposure by biasing it plus or minus 2 stops within the auto program.
Let me know via PM if you have any other issues I may can help with since I am thinking to keep my knowledge more to myself given the recent unGrateful behaviors of certain entities.
So, in conclusion, good luck with it. And anyone who does not like my dry humor or writing style, KMR.
Sincerely,
N