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Find a better tech, your symptoms are those common to IP creep and nothing else. I will disagree with awap slightly on the cause, my bet is a defective balance chamber. A common cause of this type failure is a small scratch in the balance chamber (caused by a careless tech). Initially the scratch is filled with lube and works fine but as the lube extrudes from the scratch under pressure, the IP creep starts and gets worse, how bad depends on the scratch. A scratch on the main body in the hard seat mating surface or the hard seat oring groove will also do the same thing and are also easy areas to put a scratch for a careless tech. A defective balance chamber or hard seat oring are also a possible cause. In any case, dirt in the second stages is not the cause.

This is a very easy thing for the average diver to determine (the IP creep, not the actual cause of it) for themselves. Get yourself an IP gauge ( under $15) and check the IP for yourself. Checking IP is a check every diver should do on a regular basis, it's quick, easy and can show lots of problems way before they become a real issue.
 
Find a better tech, your symptoms are those common to IP creep and nothing else. I will disagree with awap slightly on the cause, my bet is a defective balance chamber. A common cause of this type failure is a small scratch in the balance chamber (caused by a careless tech). Initially the scratch is filled with lube and works fine but as the lube extrudes from the scratch under pressure, the IP creep starts and gets worse, how bad depends on the scratch. A scratch on the main body in the hard seat mating surface or the hard seat oring groove will also do the same thing and are also easy areas to put a scratch for a careless tech. A defective balance chamber or hard seat oring are also a possible cause. In any case, dirt in the second stages is not the cause.

This is a very easy thing for the average diver to determine (the IP creep, not the actual cause of it) for themselves. Get yourself an IP gauge ( under $15) and check the IP for yourself. Checking IP is a check every diver should do on a regular basis, it's quick, easy and can show lots of problems way before they become a real issue.

Thanks Herman. My experience is strictly with piston 1sts. As a WWW (warm water wimp) I have not needed a diaphragm reg.
 
Concur with the IP creep. Problem I have seen is that some techs will slap a gauge on there and see it drop then APPEAR to lock up.
It'll do this on just about every breath.
They may wait for a few seconds and if they don't see what they consider to be a NOTICEABLE creep they'll say no IP creep. When in fact a little patience would result in them seeing the gradual creep, which it sounds exactly like your reg is doing.
Which is why when I service a reg I'll test it like that and then I'll leave it on there while I'm doing other things close by. I'll keep an eye on it and if I see it SLOWLY move up the reg gets rebuilt. Some seat failures will be subtle and you may not see the creep happen immediately.

---------- Post added November 23rd, 2014 at 10:08 AM ----------

Just an FYI, most of my experience is with diaphragm regs and have seen what Herman has described a few times. Which is why when I remove and replace that o ring I don't even use a brass pick. Nylon only pick and reseat it with a smooth plastic dowel. The tiniest scratch will ruin the chamber and you'll never get it to stop.
 
Thanks Herman. My experience is strictly with piston 1sts. As a WWW (warm water wimp) I have not needed a diaphragm reg.

I knew you did mostly piston regs, I on the other hand spend most of my time under the hood of USD/AL and VDH regs so I have seen this type of problem a number of times. It's one your average parts swapper variety of tech does not understand and often times misses.

Missed you in Coz last week.
 
I agree with Jim, In my experience I've seen techs hook the reg up to an IP gauge, hit the purge a few times, watch the pressure "lock" after a few seconds, unhook everything and call it good. Usually creep takes a few minutes to manifest itself on the gauge.
 
I agree with Jim, In my experience I've seen techs hook the reg up to an IP gauge, hit the purge a few times, watch the pressure "lock" after a few seconds, unhook everything and call it good. Usually creep takes a few minutes to manifest itself on the gauge.

This is basically what I observed her do yesterday when I came in.

I just picked up the reg. She said she took it apart and gave it a good cleaning.

If I still have the same problem, I'll just have to take it somewhere else.
 
You can even make one for about ten bucks with a BC Inflator fitting, gauge from McMaster, and a thread adapter. Could add a pressure relief screw for another 5.
 
You can even make one for about ten bucks with a BC Inflator fitting, gauge from McMaster, and a thread adapter. Could add a pressure relief screw for another 5.

A diver without an IP gauge is like a mother without a thermometer.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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