Sipadan - Don't Waste Your Time

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SnappyTheDiver

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Fellow Divers,

Want to dive Sipadan? Think again and consider the following very carefully.

I am currently on Mabul and this is my tenth trip to Mabul-Sipadan in four years. A few weeks ago the head ranger in charge on Sipadan changed. This happens every six months. The rules on 120 divers/permits per day is now being rigorously enforced.

What does this mean? Let's start with some basic numbers by counting the rooms/chalets at some of the major resorts offering diving at Sipadan.

Sipadan-Kapalai - 40
Sipadan Mabul Resort (SMART) - 60
Borneo Divers - 30
Sipadan Water Village - 45
Seaventures - 30

Total rooms = 205 * 2 (divers per room) = 410 divers

This number does not count the Celebes Explorer liveaboard, homestays on Mabul, and Semporna-based operations. Let's roughly say that these are another 90 divers - but actually this is more.

So we have 500 divers and 120 permits. Roughly speaking you have a chance of 1 in 5 of diving on Sipadan.

Actually that is not entirely true since some resorts for reasons political, historical, or whatever get more permits than others. For example, today Borneo Divers had 30 permits, Pulau-Sipadan (Kapalai) had 27, and SMART had 12.

If you read this board then you will see several recent posts on boats going to Sipadan and being turned back. This is a very regular occurrence. This is because everyone - resorts, homestays, etc. - are trying everything they can to keep their businesses alive by getting their guests to Sipadan.

Here's one of the gambits. They send their boats very early in the morning - 5:30 AM. Those boats do two or three dives. The boats return and the same boat gets sent back with another set of divers who are told the names and nationalities of the divers who went in the morning. Sometimes this works but quite often it does not.

Getting to Sipadan is at best a smooth speedboat ride of 20 minutes or a back-wrenching 45 to 60 minutes of crashing into an on-coming sea. You can imagine how much I enjoyed a 45 minute crossing only to be turned around. That was my experience yesterday.

Sipadan can be very good but the current situation just does not work. Dives are getting shorter and shorter because the guides and the operators want to turn around the boats and try to sneak a few more divers into Sipadan.

Mabul and Kapalai do not have enough dive sites or sites of sufficient quality as a destination in and of itself - in my opinion. I say this from the perspective of someone who is an avid macro enthusiast.

Some resorts are being very honest about the current situation. I don't believe that dive/travel agencies are being nearly as forthright. I have seen far too many unhappy divers who have come a long distance and paid serious money to be unable to dive their primary destination.

If you are considering Sipadan. Consider yourself warned.
 
Oh Snappy,
I really hope thing get a wee bit better in the next 2 1/2 weeks as I am returning to SMART with 3 dive buddies and we really do not want to be "turned away" at Sipidan.
This would totally suck and I really think it would hurt the tourism over there so I am hoping the gov't will get their s**t together and realize that...and soon! Mabul and Kapalai are good diving but I long for the tornadoes of cudas and a few hammers as well! Well, it is what it is I guess. It will be me reporting in here on the boards in the next month. I hope my report has better things to say than yours...nothing personal you know :)
Thanks for the warnings though
Scuba Susie
 
Scuba Susie,

Things may be better for you since by the end of September the number of visitors goes down. July and August were very bad in terms of boats being sent back. Keep in mind this was with resorts only sending a diver there one out of two or three days. Resort bookings have already dropped considerably due to the permit issues. SMART is a very good operation but they are taking a beating since they have more rooms/chalets and get fewer permits. I know this is not happy face news but it is what is taking place.
 
correct me if I am wrong but I thought the limit on number of divers at Sipadan, and the relocation of the resorts, was to allow the Sipadan environment to recover. It sounds like the Malaysian government already "got its s**t together" and the fact that they are getting stricter in the enforcement should be seen as a good thing.

I critisized them when they wanted to develop the island but I congratulate them now. Thanks for the warning about the travel agents not being honest though.
 
Zippsy, yes that is and was the objective. Keep in mind the main issue was the resorts on the island. Garbage, raw sewage, etc. I continue to see bad diving behavior where the lack of buoyancy control results in coral damage but this is a world-wide problem. The issue now is the financial viability of the resorts and operators. I have been on Mabul for seven full days of diving and have gotten to Sipadan once. It remains to be seen how the Malaysian government will address the issue of number of diving permits vice what in the end are the jobs and income generated by the resorts and operators.
 
Hey Snappy

I will be at smarts in a couple weeks i had a wonderful time on Sipadan in 2001 and 2003 but things are so different now but coming back to spend some time on Mabul 12 days how has the macro been around Mabul at this moment of time also Mabul's housereef what is it like,is it interesting

I will want to get some dives in at Sipadan only really interested in Barracuda point towards full moon and do love this site and is fully aware of the permit situation which is a joke really and can't remember the last time i did a 45minute dive and heartbreaking for fellow divers who have never dived there before and spent their hard earned cash getting there,so i am prepared but have more serious diving in Indonesia after Mabul

Regarding diving around Mabul at what times of the day are the dives. :confused:

Any news would be grateful for.

HAPPY DIVING :D
 
TWIME,

The good news. The water is 29C.

The bad news. I have never seen Mabul and Kapalai as quiet creature-wise as it has been for my last seven days of diving. Until today, I had not found a single flatworm. Today I found three - one at Lobster Wall, another at the Seaventure Platform, and the third at Mantis Crown. There have been four or five species of nudibranch. I am serious.

Lobster Wall has usually been a dive where I could find many nudibranchs and flatworms. This week there was hardly a creature to be found. There are a couple of Pygmy Seahorses around - one at Seaventure and another at Eel Garden.

SMART is running three schedules.

- 0530, 0830, 1030 - Three dives at Sipadan
- 0830, 1045, 1430 - Three dives at Mabul/Kapalai
- 0830, 1330, 1530 - First dive Mabul, two dives Sipadan

I think they may give up on the approach of sending a boat back to Sipadan in the afternoon. This week David the guy who does the technical and Turtle Cave diving went three times and was sent back all three times. The permit situation is grim.

The SMART House Reef is quite nice. I dive it almost every day. There are many structures to swim around with a large resident school of Jacks. Now and then there is the odd nudibranch, moray, and pipefish. There does not appear to be any Frogfish in residence at present.

I still plan to return in March of next year and maybe things will have improved. But... I am not expecting too much.

I am now headed to Indonesia for two months of diving. Good luck.

Snappy
 
I think everybody since Cousteau who has even though about diving has considered going to Sipidan. It's a pity that all I here is negative news about the place. Just from memory:

  • Overdiving
  • Pollution
  • Sinking Island
  • Damage to the marine ecology because of government stupidity
  • Political interference on licenses

It seems it has become a victim of it's own success, maybe it would have been better if Cousteau had never brought it to world attention!
 
All this news makes me very sad. Sad for the local guys who are trying to make a living thru their respective dive resorts and to have their clients "turned away" after they were promised (and paid for) permits to dive Sipidan. It makes me sad for the clients (like me) who waited and saved all year to go dive the mecca of dive sites only to be "turned back" because of political/favoritism/who knows reasons. Finally it makes me sad for the ecological preservation of Sipidan that while their attempt to limit the impact of divers on the island, it sounds like they are in actuallity, driving clients away, having them leave in frustration, never to return and even worse, giving Sipidan bad publicity for their attempts. I will be at SMART in 2 weeks and hope I am not "turned away". This was soooo not an issue 2 years ago but I also realize the permit system was not enforced then either. I think it is a good idea that may not be applicated in a judical way???? I am not there, I do not know. I just hear from you guys and it makes me SAD!
BUT....it sure a hell will be better that diving Northern California where the water temp is 9.4 C!!!!!!!!!!
Scuba Sue
 
Glad I went last June before the crack down. It was deffinately a diving hightlight.

Happy for the conservation, but like Susie I am sad for all you with reservations and for the locals who are trying to make a living.

Saw plenty of crown of thorns on the coral beds. Wonder what they have done to the corals?

Good luck!
 
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