Simple GoPro Hero3 setup help

[advocatelindsay]

Hello-
I'm in desperate need of some help and my internet searches are proving more confusing than helpful. I am a photographer for a newspaper and I'm pitching a story which would require me to get certified to dive and then photograph some underwater dives and shipwrecks in the Long Island Sound for the paper. If they are ever going to approve this project of mine it needs to be much more affordable than most of what I've seen ends up being. It should also be pretty simple (this setup is really only going to be used for this project).
Since underwater housing for my DSLR is an unbelievable fortune I'm suggesting that they buy or rent a Hero3 Black, purchase the memory card, and buy or rent lights. I'm suggesting they buy the SRP red color correcting filter. The lights and bracket is where I'm totally lost. I'm also concerned about the Hero3's capabilities.
Since I've never done underwater photography before (but I AM a photographer, so the quality of my work is important!) I'm nervous that the Hero3 quality will be a letdown. I've seen some nice photos and some really incredible video. Can anyone tell me what the resolution of a screen grab from the video is? Do you think I'm making a mistake by going down this road?
Lastly, what lights do I need? The Sound can be pretty murky- it's not pretty clear waters! I've read some threads here where everyone has a really sweet setup with multiple lights and that just isn't going to be in the budget. Can I get away with one 800p SOLA? Or do I really need two? I could rent one 1200p SOLA or two 2000s. Will stills look okay with the video lights so I'll have both capabilities? Lastly, what kind of bracket do I need for this setup?
I feel totally lost here and I really appreciate any advice! The last thing I'd want would be to pitch this huge story, have them pay for it all, and then realize I didn't get the right equipment.

 

[lostcajun]

So, are you primarily looking for photos or video?

 

[advocatelindsay]

Primarily still photos, but if we went with the Hero3 I'd shoot some video for our website as well. We can't put video in a print paper (obviously!) so I'd still need some still photos as well.

 

[flareside]

The stills from a GoPro will probably disappoint you. In murky, dark waters the shutter speeds for still photos are too slow, even with additional lighting. Your best bet would be to rent a p&s from the dive shop, one that will do both flash photos and web grade video.

There is another side to this you need to consider however. A camera and a noob diver are a dangerous combination. Until you get a significant number of dives under your belt, you need to stay focused on what is required to keep yourself alive, not on taking photographs. If you feel you must push this forward at an accelerated rate, hire yourself a DM to stay with you and watch your every move, paying attention to all the things you may be neglecting while playing photographer.

 

[diversteve]

I agree with everything flareside posted. Esp. the 2nd paragraph. I've lost track of the number of newer divers with a new camera who kick up the reef (killing the animals) etc. when they get a new camera. They see everything thru the viewfinder - except that they're sinking. We call it roto-tilling.

Another option might be to hire an u/w photographer to take the shots you need. With a slate you could communicate your desires underwater fairly clearly. Unless the point of the article is to highlight your experience.

Since I've never done underwater photography before

It also requires a different set of skills to get anything usable.

See if the paper will pop for a trip to Bermuda instead, The water is warm, there's over 200 wrecks - many are shallow - some you can even snorkel. 2hr. flight, friends of mine in NYC do it regularly.

Addditionally any sort of wreck penetration requires another set of skills and advanced training. Training you shouldn't even consider until dive #50 or greater. And after taking other classes. Rusted, sharp wrecks and murky water are an accident waiting to happen for a new diver. Experienced, wreck certified divers occasionally get hurt/killed on wrecks. And they have the training, equipment etc.

If you just want to swim over/near the wreck, that's generally safer. But they're also clear monofilament and fishing net gathering sites. You may not even see a long line until it wraps around you. So you need to know what to do - or have someone that can cut you free. Because it may catch where you can't reach with your knife. Commercial fishing line is often thicker - you can't break it so you have to cut yourself out.

IDK about that area but often wrecks tend to be deeper. So you'll burn more gas getting down and back safely, leaving much less time on the wreck. If you have some idea of what you want, maybe hire an experienced diver to swim the wreck first - maybe with a GoPro or video camera, then review the footage and pick out places you'd like to concentrate on your dive. Since your bottom time will be limited. Over 100' there's also Nitrogen Narcosis to deal with, until you've experienced it you'll have no idea if/how it affects you. Normally as a new diver you should stay above 60' anyway. So that may limit what wrecks you can dive also.

Plus unless you charter the boat, the other paying divers will likely want to move between sites. So you may have to do many trips to get to the same wrecks. Assuming conditions are good enough for diving - let alone filming - when you get there.

Also look at some of the stills on the GoPro site. There's a few shot underwater. Is that the quality you want? Most have a definite wide angle look to them, because the GoPro is a 170^o Fixed Focus camera. There are u/w diopters you can use but they detract from the quality. Even then for close-up work you likely want a camera that you can focus. Plus the GoPro has no preview mode unless you buy/rent the BacPac also.

There's also two red filters, a green water and a blue water. The blue water is used in the Caribbean/tropics. I'd assume you'll want the green if the water off Long Island is anything like New England.

I believe on most L.I. boats - generally in the NE - the Divemaster stays on the boat. So you'll need to hire your own as well. That's in addition to the photographer since he may be too distracted to notice immediately that you're gone. Scuba is very safe but do the wrong thing and it goes bad quickly.

 

[advocatelindsay]

Thanks for the thoughts. I've been on a few vacation dives before so I'm not completely inexperienced, and the dive shop employees will be down there with me. Plus, as I mentioned, I'd be certified and do a few dives without the camera before even heading down. I'm not going to hire a photographer since I am a photographer- that would be silly.
It is an option to just take a point and shoot with me, but I guess I thought it would be worse quality than the GoPro. From your advice it sounds like the point and shoot might actually be a better option.
Thanks for the advice!

 

[PsyWulf]

To be frank i'd look into Intova cameras if I were you,the IC14 is a 14Megapixel camera thats quite pro,if your budget is a bit too restricted even the SP10K wouldn't be bad. They come with standard Tripod mounts so you can spend a bit more on a Base tray and some lighting or even a telescopic pod for those hard to reach critters. Only problem with the 10K is lack of Filter support

Whichever brand and model you go for,you'll need sufficient light and/or filters to prevent the pics coming out overly green/blue

 

[James R]

Hiring a photographer would not be silly in my opinion. Quite the opposite actually.

You would probably be out less money and have far better results. I would imagine there are a few enthusiast underwater photographers who would do this for you if you just covered their costs in exchange for being published. You should definitely go on the dive with them and perform the "creative director" role by pointing out what you want photographed.

 

[advocatelindsay]

Over 100' there's also Nitrogen Narcosis to deal with, until you've experienced it you'll have no idea if/how it affects you. Normally as a new diver you should stay above 60' anyway.

I just want to reassure you that I'm certainly not going INTO any wrecks and probably no deeper than 50-60 feet.

There's also two red filters, a green water and a blue water. The blue water is used in the Caribbean/tropics. I'd assume you'll want the green if the water off Long Island is anything like New England.

I didn't know this! Thanks for the info. I'm now looking at renting either the G12 or S100 (both come with FIX housing and a Inon D-2000 strobe) but neither come with a filter. Any advice on how I know which filter is for green vs. blue?

---------- Post added June 13th, 2013 at 11:48 AM ----------

Hiring a photographer would not be silly in my opinion. Quite the opposite actually.

You would probably be out less money and have far better results. I would imagine there are a few enthusiast underwater photographers who would do this for you if you just covered their costs in exchange for being published. You should definitely go on the dive with them and perform the "creative director" role by pointing out what you want photographed.

I appreciate the advice but that's just not the kind of work I do. I'm full time for my newspaper and don't have the power to hire people. This is just a project I find interesting and am pitching to my paper. If the price isn't right they'll just say no and get on with their day.

 

[flareside]

You really don't need filters with either of those cameras as they have good WB correction and RAW capability. And you shouldn't be using filters if you are using lighting anyway. You'll also probably need video lighting in addition to the strobe. To get the best advice regarding Canon p&s cameras however, you be better off to move your question over to the Canon section of the forum.