Hello my Sherwood I acquired in 1998. I enclose two picture an assembled and another disassemblata. The led a small train where pass of bubbles is clean, the piston striped not, but I do not understand why the thread of immersion in air do not leave and if I find the open water inside. I do the maintenance of the Poseidon that is much more complicated the Sherwood but I do not have I have no problem. What shall I do to see the bubbles exit and have the Room of the piston dry after immersion? THAT I AM can give to dive? However function well and not too hard. Thank you and Hello.
Sherwood and absence of bubbles
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keyshunter
Contributor
In this reg, the bleed orifice (hole) is located in the piston face. The protective screen is probably blocked, thus not allowing air to pass through. I have not had much luck trying to clean these filters. Probably you will need to replace the piston.
I suspect that water is pushing into the reg past the black one-way bleed valve which is visible from outside the reg. Carefully remove this valve. Do not use a metal tool to pry it out so you do not damage the brass seating face. Check the valve face to be sure that it is not rough or nicked. You may have to replace this valve. Then check the reg surface where it seats for roughness. Smooth the area with a mild abrasive like a pencil eraser.
I suspect that water is pushing into the reg past the black one-way bleed valve which is visible from outside the reg. Carefully remove this valve. Do not use a metal tool to pry it out so you do not damage the brass seating face. Check the valve face to be sure that it is not rough or nicked. You may have to replace this valve. Then check the reg surface where it seats for roughness. Smooth the area with a mild abrasive like a pencil eraser.
widget
Contributor
Yes, its as Keyshunter says and I suspected, its an older model (pre 2001) and the flow control is in the piston, and almost certainly blocked.
I agree that the only option to ensure the matter is fixed once and for all is to replace the piston and the one way rubber bleed valve.
If you leave it like this water will continue to enter the piston chamber and cause all sorts of issues later.
I agree that the only option to ensure the matter is fixed once and for all is to replace the piston and the one way rubber bleed valve.
If you leave it like this water will continue to enter the piston chamber and cause all sorts of issues later.
Yep, you definitely need a new piston. The little circle on the face of the piston is made up of finely sintered metal that allows a small quantity of air to pass through the piston. It then passes through the black rubber port out into the water and is seen as tiny bubbles. The higher air pressure inside the valve is what keeps water out. Water pressure on the black valve determines how much pressure is on the underside of the pistion, and that is how the first stage knows how deep it is.
Two things are happening here: One, no air is getting through the piston bleeder. This cannot be fixed; the piston must be replaced. They're not cheap, but they're not horribly expensive. Two, the black rubber "valve" to the outside may be cracked or have a rough sealing face. You should probably replace it just because it's old. Replacement valves are cheap. The sealing face on the regulator body may be less than smooth, so rubbing it with a pencil eraser is a good idea. Make it nice and shiny.
Once you fix this, your first stage will be good as new.
Two things are happening here: One, no air is getting through the piston bleeder. This cannot be fixed; the piston must be replaced. They're not cheap, but they're not horribly expensive. Two, the black rubber "valve" to the outside may be cracked or have a rough sealing face. You should probably replace it just because it's old. Replacement valves are cheap. The sealing face on the regulator body may be less than smooth, so rubbing it with a pencil eraser is a good idea. Make it nice and shiny.
Once you fix this, your first stage will be good as new.
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