Hello to all, I have one Sherwood Magnum. I have noted that from 1 stage not exits, during the dive, the small wire of bubbles. Which is the right PRESSURE OF CALIBRATION intermediate? Now works in 9, 5 bar is right or must be 8, 5 bar. Thanks and a greeting to all from Amalfi, Italy.
Sherwood and absence of bubbles
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jswantek
Contributor
That's Sherwood's 'Dry Air Bleed' system, slightly 'overpressuring' the 1st stage to keep water and dirt out of it. My Magnum does the exact same thing, it's not an intermediate pressure problem.
Those bubbles are supposed to be there. If they're not there (coming from a black rubber plug not to be confused with a HP or LP port) you need to take the reg to a service center and get it fixed. The fix is fairly simple; depending on the vintage of the first stage it's either a bad piston or a clogged bleed valve inside the piston chamber.
It does sound like he's saying that there is an absence of bubbles. tfsails is correct, take it in for servicing.
As the the other said, it is normal on a Sherwood regulator for the bubbles to be there. If they are not there, you may have an issue with it.
Costiera Amalfitana is one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited.
Is the diving good??
Costiera Amalfitana is one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited.
Is the diving good??
Thank you for the answers. Unfortunately the sea is very clear as years ago, but fortunately there are still room for diving beautiful as the Galli and Capri. Unfortunately, the technical NOT BEEN ABLE TO REPAIR THE Magnum; the small train of bubbles not exit. patience the i'' AS THE SECOND, I also have a Poseidon. Hello
widget
Contributor
Its really so simple to service this reg, if a technical dept is not available just take some time, get an exploded diagram and do it yourself. If you work methodically and carefully there is no reason you cant sort the matter out.
Basically as tfsails mentioned, it depends on the model, if its an old unit, it will probably need a piston upgrade to the modern replacement anyway, on the newer units it could either be the flow control unit or the dry air bleed rubber valve. To be sure, in the modern regs, you could just replace the flow control unit (or at least the filter) as well as the dry air bleed valve, its a reletively cheap and very simple operation, at most it will take you 15 minutes.
Basically as tfsails mentioned, it depends on the model, if its an old unit, it will probably need a piston upgrade to the modern replacement anyway, on the newer units it could either be the flow control unit or the dry air bleed rubber valve. To be sure, in the modern regs, you could just replace the flow control unit (or at least the filter) as well as the dry air bleed valve, its a reletively cheap and very simple operation, at most it will take you 15 minutes.
Then I dismantled ALL THE FIRST STAGE AND REPLACED all the O-ring and clean the filter. Before the intermediate pressure was 8 bar. Now I have compressed the spring of the piston with a knob Teflon and now the intermediate pressure and' 9, 5 bar. I have tried in water but the little train of bubbles do not leave and opening the first stage, the Room of the piston and wet'' AND NOT AS dry as should be. What more can I do? Ciao
keyshunter
Contributor
Flomant,
The problem is most likely the dry bleed filter. Depending upon which model of first stage you have, this filter will be located either in the piston (older model). or in a separate screw-in unit located internally at the side of the body. If you have the piston type filter, the piston will have to be replaced to replace the filter. If you have the later model, use a 3/32" hex wrench to remove the bleed unit. If the unit has a scintered (metal) filter you need to replace this entire unit. The very latest style has a small white foam filter at the internal end of this bleed unit. Replace this filter and you should be good to go.
The problem is most likely the dry bleed filter. Depending upon which model of first stage you have, this filter will be located either in the piston (older model). or in a separate screw-in unit located internally at the side of the body. If you have the piston type filter, the piston will have to be replaced to replace the filter. If you have the later model, use a 3/32" hex wrench to remove the bleed unit. If the unit has a scintered (metal) filter you need to replace this entire unit. The very latest style has a small white foam filter at the internal end of this bleed unit. Replace this filter and you should be good to go.
widget
Contributor
If the piston chamber is wet, its a sign that, as suggested here the flow control valve is problematic, either in the piston (as I tend to think) or the chamber body.
If you can post a pic of the unit AND the present (removed) piston I am fairly sure it can be determined if you need to replace the piston (old unit) or just the flow control unit (new models).
The intermediate pressure is not related to this issue.
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