Settings for C-8080 + Ikelite

[dbush]

My mistake with the Ikelite housing had me considering buying their housing, so I was on their site. I found some settings that I thought I would pass along if you haven't found these yet.

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/gide_o8080.html

DB

 

[slowhands]

Codfish,

.....I hate to mention it, and I certainly hope you have a different experience, but I had a great deal of problems with minor leakage with the housing. Nothing catastrophic, but I pretty much had to strip the housing down after every dive or two and clean/lube it to try and get the thing to seal. I never had problems with my Olympus 5050 housing. Oh well...

Dave Bush
Titusville, FL

I would have expected the opposite. Ikelite housings are rated for more depth than the Olympus housings are rated for (60M vs 40M). And they look and feel like they should handle more depth. Your housing may have a defect or contaminant somewhere that should be corrected by the manufacturer. Ikelite is well regarded for support, so I would contact them about a checkup if you can't find the source.

Oops, later you say:

The housing that I have that I said I was having problems with was an Olympus housing. ...when Ike hears about a problem on the web, he immediately PMs me and asks to fix it! I should have bought the Ikelight housing rather than the Olympus!

I had over 50 dives on my PT-010/3040, no problems. I had another 50+ dives on my 5050/PT-015, no problems. Maybe I was lucky. I know I was very careful. I'm sorry you're having problems with your 8080/PT023, let us know if you resolve them.

The only moisture problem I did have was fogging and condensation, which has to do with the warm moist air topside, and cooler water below. Are you sure the "leakage" was not condensation, from moist air in a cooled housing? I have fogged my lens a time or two, so I know this is very real. I put an absorbent pad in the bottom of my housing, to absorb the excess humidity (silica gel is the best).

 

[dbush]

I had some problems with moisture in my PT-23, but that was easy enough to resolve. Load the camera in dry cool air and use moisture muncers. All camera housings have this issue although I suspect housings with more volume are more prone to the problem. The PT-23 has that silly huge port with an extra joint. I suspect my leakage was either coming from the port joint or the actual seal around the glass. It got to the point where I would have to dissasemble the joints in question and dry out the port, but it never got to the flooding state. Anyway, Ike's housing is looking good to me but since I got back from Australia, I have been getting into tech diving and I dare not mix tech diving with photo work at this point in my training. When I'm shooting I pay very little attention to everything else and that is a good way to get killed tech diving.

Dave Bush
Titusville, FL

 

[slowhands]

... I have been getting into tech diving and I dare not mix tech diving with photo work at this point in my training. When I'm shooting I pay very little attention to everything else and that is a good way to get killed tech diving.
....

I totally agree. You need to have diving down cold, buoyancy control, safety and confidence in what you do, before really getting into UW photography. You still need to be very alert to your surroundings.

I was diving in the Philippines with some pretty hard core photographer, and could not help but laugh when they would go for the macro shots, which they got. Here is an example attached. I know for a fact there were stonefish and cone shells on the bottom in this area -- I was a little wary of assuming that position.

 

[docjay]

I have an Oly 5060 with a DS125 strobe. I used these settings which were originally for the 5050. http://www.splashdowndivers.com/pho...settings.htm#Details - C-5050 Camera Settings
They work great. I would imagine they would work for the 8080 too. Just preprogram them into your custom "my Modes". Then all you have to do is switch from mode to mode underwater. I even made a little cheat sheet which is taped to the inside of the housing so I know which mode to use in a given situation/pic. I Shoot in RAW and edit with PS Elements and the pictures turn out great.

Jay

 

[WOODMAN]

Ike, I also have one of your D125 strobes and an Ikelite housing for my venerable c5050, and I also never saw a settings card in my strobe box. Is this something very recent? My strobe is about one year old. Is there somewhere I could order one? Many thanks for your help. Woody

 

[AstroDiver]

Divinman,
Go to Ikelite's website and ask them for the card. It had listed a bunch of cameras and hold to program them for the TTL mode including the C-8080.

 

[AstroDiver]

As far as condensation goes, I learned from my Ikelite video housing, sit in front of an airconditioner with the cool dry air blowing into the housing and on the camera. This should cool down the inside so it doesn't fog up inside.

Also, the above sheet is the info I have on the card for setting up my camera. I had some problems this last trip as the camera seemed to have a mind of it own sometimes.

 

[slowhands]

Divinman,
Go to Ikelite's website and ask them for the card. It had listed a bunch of cameras and hold to program them for the TTL mode including the C-8080.

The Ikelite site lists the settings here:

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/gide_o8080.html

 

[mnfsh]

Codfish, I just dove with my C8080, Ike housing, DS 50 strobe, TTL cord for the first time in Bonaire over Thanksgiving using the Ikelite settings and found my flash was firing late. I also second " docjay's" recommendation on the splashdown site's settings which offers a more comprehensive settings list. My plans are to go into the basement and fire off some pics using Ike's and Splashdown's lists before I get this rig wet again. I know most of my problems are due to operator error, this is my first digital camera, but Photoshop salvaged a lot of my pics. Good luck