markster33139
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I read this somewhere, but I am can't seem to find the answer anywhere. Is it possible to set a minimum shutter speed on the G10 while in AV mode, and how do you do this if possible?
Setting the minimum shutter speed on Canon G10
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Mel Moncrieff
Contributor
Using an external strobe connected to the hotshoe (as in the Ikelite system), or just setting the internal flash to fire every will automatically set your minimum shutter speed to 1/60 (at least on my G9). If you want a faster shutter speed than 1/60 you just about have to go to shutter priority or manual mode.
Mel
OP
markster33139
Registered
I noticed that the shutter speed always seems to be at 1/60 while in AV mode. You mentioned that this happens if you set the camera to fire the flash for every shot, but isn't this is how you would set up the camera in AV mode? Please correct me if I am wrong on this.
Mel Moncrieff
Contributor
Yes, that's how I set up my camera. Here's a gallery that was shot with those settings and dual Ike 125 strobes http://www.pbase.com/mtmel44/fiji_beqa_island&page=all
The exposure data for each shot is listed underneath. 1/60 of a second is usually fast enough to freeze the action if most of your light is coming from the strobes which it will if you're using low iso's and small apertures. I shot most of these as 6.3, 7.1 and 8. If you want faster shutter speeds you can go to TV mode, but then your camera will open up on the aperture, and I found that I wasn't getting the good color. The only other way is to go fully manual--you'll lose your TTL functionality but you can get some great images. This next gallery was shot with a combination of AV and manual--the manual shots have the faster shutter speeds. You can see the difference...
http://www.pbase.com/mtmel44/turks_caicos_explorer&page=all
Mel
The exposure data for each shot is listed underneath. 1/60 of a second is usually fast enough to freeze the action if most of your light is coming from the strobes which it will if you're using low iso's and small apertures. I shot most of these as 6.3, 7.1 and 8. If you want faster shutter speeds you can go to TV mode, but then your camera will open up on the aperture, and I found that I wasn't getting the good color. The only other way is to go fully manual--you'll lose your TTL functionality but you can get some great images. This next gallery was shot with a combination of AV and manual--the manual shots have the faster shutter speeds. You can see the difference...
http://www.pbase.com/mtmel44/turks_caicos_explorer&page=all
Mel
PNG Diver
Registered
Your best hope is when the CHDK hack becomes available for the G10. CHDK is a hack that many people use to improve the control they have over Canon point and shoot cameras. (It's not illegal). One of the many options is gives you is the ability to over-ride the camera's settings for either aperture or shutter speed. So you could keep your camera in Av mode but use CHDK to set the shutter speed at 1/250 or whatever else you wanted. Apparently this works in any camera mode. It's not quite the same thing as having TTL (Auto) flash in manual mode but it would effectively allow you to do the same thing.
I've never used it because it's not available for my camera. But if you do an internet search, you'll find plenty of happy people who do use it. And I've never found any unhappy people who tried it.
The best way to understand CHDK is to go to their web-page and look at the FAQ section and then at the Manual.
They haven't yet finished developing CHDK for the G10. And there's no possible way to know when it will be ready. But they have successfully "broken in" to the camera so hopefully it won't be too long.
I've never used it because it's not available for my camera. But if you do an internet search, you'll find plenty of happy people who do use it. And I've never found any unhappy people who tried it.
The best way to understand CHDK is to go to their web-page and look at the FAQ section and then at the Manual.
They haven't yet finished developing CHDK for the G10. And there's no possible way to know when it will be ready. But they have successfully "broken in" to the camera so hopefully it won't be too long.
PNG Diver
Registered
If you use a small aperture and a low ISO, with an external flash, then it's quite possible that when you are under the water, a slow shutter speed won't cause the problems with image blur due to camera shake or subject movement that you are worried about. There might be so little ambient light in your exposure that all you have to expose your images is the flash pulse. I don't know how fast the flash pulse is with your flashes but with most "land use" flashes it is less than 1/1000 of a second.
The way to test this is to leave the camera set to "FLASH ON". But turn the switch on your flashes to OFF. And then take a photo. If all you get is a black screen, then you know that the ambient light is really underexposed. If you set the ISO to 80 and the aperture to F8, you'll probably find that this is exactly what will happen under most light conditions that divers encounter (unless you are in clear, shallow water on a bright sunny day). If that happens, then even though your shutter speed is 1/60, the ambient light is not getting through to your camera. So the 1/60 is only giving you a black screen and it won't make any difference whether that black screen has camera shake or not. Then you can turn your flashes back on and rejoice in the fact that the "real" duration of the exposure that is going to create your image is only the duration of your flash pulse - which is probably 1/1000 or less. And that won't cause camera shake blur - and it will probably freeze your subject even if it is moving a bit.
This changes a bit if you use a focusing light. So if you haven't fallen asleep from this long post and are still interested, then let me know and I'll tell you how a focussing light would affect this.
The way to test this is to leave the camera set to "FLASH ON". But turn the switch on your flashes to OFF. And then take a photo. If all you get is a black screen, then you know that the ambient light is really underexposed. If you set the ISO to 80 and the aperture to F8, you'll probably find that this is exactly what will happen under most light conditions that divers encounter (unless you are in clear, shallow water on a bright sunny day). If that happens, then even though your shutter speed is 1/60, the ambient light is not getting through to your camera. So the 1/60 is only giving you a black screen and it won't make any difference whether that black screen has camera shake or not. Then you can turn your flashes back on and rejoice in the fact that the "real" duration of the exposure that is going to create your image is only the duration of your flash pulse - which is probably 1/1000 or less. And that won't cause camera shake blur - and it will probably freeze your subject even if it is moving a bit.
This changes a bit if you use a focusing light. So if you haven't fallen asleep from this long post and are still interested, then let me know and I'll tell you how a focussing light would affect this.
OP
markster33139
Registered
Thank you everyone for your input on this subject. You have given me a lot to think about, and have provided some great ideas on using my camera.
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