George Ang Dy Pay
Contributor
Can anyone guide me with the setting for my olympus 5060(no strobe), am a lousy photog, with a little help, might improve...HOPEFULLY!
setting for my olympus 5060(no strobe)
- Thread starter George Ang Dy Pay
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
Welcome to the board.
Try searching on C5050. Over the years there has been a bunch of tips posted on them and it will apply to the 5060.
Basically, get a lot closer than you think you should, you must shoot close underwater and much more so if you don't have an external strobe. Without an external strobe shooting over 2 or 3 ft from your subject is a waste unless you are in very shallow water. You need to shoot in manual mode. The auto modes on most cameras don't do well underater. As a starting point try an Fstop of 5.6 and a shutter speed of 100. Without getting into too much detail, in UW manual shooting Fstop controls the depth of field and exposure of the near area (assuming your internal flash is on), out to maybe a couple of feet. Shutter speed controls the distant exposure. In shallow clear water a shutter speed of 100 will give you med to light blue backrounds and the same shot with a shutter speed of 200 or more will give you the same near field exposure but the backrounds will be dark blue to black. You will need to experiment with which Fstop best suits you.
Try searching on C5050. Over the years there has been a bunch of tips posted on them and it will apply to the 5060.
Basically, get a lot closer than you think you should, you must shoot close underwater and much more so if you don't have an external strobe. Without an external strobe shooting over 2 or 3 ft from your subject is a waste unless you are in very shallow water. You need to shoot in manual mode. The auto modes on most cameras don't do well underater. As a starting point try an Fstop of 5.6 and a shutter speed of 100. Without getting into too much detail, in UW manual shooting Fstop controls the depth of field and exposure of the near area (assuming your internal flash is on), out to maybe a couple of feet. Shutter speed controls the distant exposure. In shallow clear water a shutter speed of 100 will give you med to light blue backrounds and the same shot with a shutter speed of 200 or more will give you the same near field exposure but the backrounds will be dark blue to black. You will need to experiment with which Fstop best suits you.
OP
George Ang Dy Pay
Contributor
Hi Herman,
I am actually looking for an external strobe, been reading a lot of threads here, can't decide, specially the one of Oly, it seems not working with PT-20, might go for Inon or Ikelite, any suggestion, must I change u/w casing? what model to consider?,thanks in advance, bro.
I am actually looking for an external strobe, been reading a lot of threads here, can't decide, specially the one of Oly, it seems not working with PT-20, might go for Inon or Ikelite, any suggestion, must I change u/w casing? what model to consider?,thanks in advance, bro.
AUTiger
Contributor
I found these settings to be quite useful.
Recommendations from the Splashdown Divers
You might also find this useful.
A C5050 tip from the old D2D board
And if you decide to get and Ike strobe, they recommend these settings.
Ike's Recommendations
If anybody is looking to upgrade their housing to an Ikelite for either the 5060 or 7070, I'm selling mine. I bought a new dSLR and am selling both my C5060 camera and the housing. Send me a private message.
David
Recommendations from the Splashdown Divers
You might also find this useful.
A C5050 tip from the old D2D board
And if you decide to get and Ike strobe, they recommend these settings.
Ike's Recommendations
If anybody is looking to upgrade their housing to an Ikelite for either the 5060 or 7070, I'm selling mine. I bought a new dSLR and am selling both my C5060 camera and the housing. Send me a private message.
David
George Ang Dy Pay:
I like the Inons. They are small with plenty of power. The fiber optic link they use works well with most any housing. I have had good results with the "simulated" TTL (can't for the life of me remember what they call it) on the D-180 I have. You can get an adapter for most housing and it's not too hard to modify or make one for housing they don't support. Their small size makes them easier to transport and they don't require as strong of an arm like the larger, heaver strobes do. Look at the D2000 and D2000S models.
OP
George Ang Dy Pay
Contributor
Thanks for the assistance, will try to play with the setting as soon as I hit the water, LOL, which happen to be almost everyday.
Similar threads
