I am still experimenting with different settings...
I have it in the programmed mode, not the scenes mode or auto.
I usually have the focus on center af, but have used 3m, 7m and ∞.
Normally auto white balance, I'll try the flourescent.
(the non-flexible white balance is a major drawback of the camera.)
I set the ISO to either 100 or 400, depending on the situation.
Flash on low, when I use it, which is only for macro shots.
I never used the macro feature with the wide angle.
I suppose I've always been at a distance.
I pretty sure the macro button is independant of the focus setting.
(the right arrow button that displays the tulip.)
I'm not sure if this overrides your focus choice.
With the S&S conversion lens on, you can still use the zoom and the auto focus.
As far as topside pics, the S&S conversion lenses are designed to be changed underwater.
They rely on a thin layer of water that is trapped between the lenses.
If you use it topside there is only a few seconds before the water drips out.
Theoretically it shouldn't work correctly out of water,
but I have managed to get off a few good shots anyway.
gert7to3:
What are the settings you use with your Sony P-10? Is it in Auto or do you alter the focusing and ISO settings in a programed mode? Also are you using Auto White Balance? Jack & Sue Drafahl suggested using the fluorescent light white balance setting for greenish water.
Another thing to try on wreck dive subjects is looking at your pics in greyscale. B&W can really bring out some of the textures and contrast, which are otherwise fogged out by the mushy color in cloudy water.
Finally, do you have to set the auto focus to macro in order to use the wide angle lens? I have to do this with the DSC V-1, when I use an accessory wide angle lens (topside). The DSC S-70 had a conversion lens setting which locked up the focus and zoom when using the accessory wide angle lens. You could also use the macro setting. The camera couldn't focus in the regular auto focus mode with the accessory lens on it.