Sea life digital 300

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vols3232

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I am new to photography. I am getting the macro lenses and wide angle lense for christmas. I have been reading the threads and do not see much for sealife cameras or for beginners. I have one strobe and am learning how to place the strobe. I do not know the questions to ask but I would like some advice and hints as to how to go about getting better.
 
I have a Sealife DC310 camera myself and you are correct you don't hear much about them. I think a lot of newer photographers can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the more advanced camera talk and get afraid to ask. However, "Most" people started off with something different than they use today, and are happy to help out with any questions you may have.

So far I love my Sealife. Its never going to give me super quality enlargements and I'm OK with that. However I took a photographers advice and bought a second strobe and what a difference it made for my shots. My preference is macro photography and I have some shots that I am truly proud of.

A good diver once told me "you'll know when it's time to upgrade. So learn with what you have and enjoy!!

David
 
I also have the DC310 and a single strobe. My night pics turn out best. I have some difficulty with daytime tho. I think that with ambient lighting it is tricking the strobe into NOT going off. therefore my pics turn out darker. fustrating when I can see the object clearly and in the pic I have to make it out. I have found that sometimes shining my light onto the object helps in some conditions. Is difficult because fish are not so understanding to posing while I change lenses and get strobe positioning.
NWDD do you know what the NEW DC 5 series means when it says "digital strobe" is that what we already have?? and what is that wire connecting the strobe and the camera? is that like a fibre optic or something so that the strobe flashes everytime? Can we adjust our 310's to flash everytime? either post here or pm me.
thanks,
Les
 
I have the DC310 - or I did. It took some OK shots for about 3 dives. On the 4th dive, the housing leaked and the camera broke. I'm always thorough about checking things over, and it was SEALED. Anyway, that part didn't upset me too much - what upset me is that I sent the camera to the service center a month ago and can't get them to let me know what is going on with the camera. So much for my $300.

Just some thoughts - I'm not too advanced with the photography stuff, just wanted to give you my experiences with SeaLife.
 
Les:
I also have the DC310 and a single strobe. My night pics turn out best. I have some difficulty with daytime tho. I think that with ambient lighting it is tricking the strobe into NOT going off. therefore my pics turn out darker. fustrating when I can see the object clearly and in the pic I have to make it out. I have found that sometimes shining my light onto the object helps in some conditions. Is difficult because fish are not so understanding to posing while I change lenses and get strobe positioning.
NWDD do you know what the NEW DC 5 series means when it says "digital strobe" is that what we already have?? and what is that wire connecting the strobe and the camera? is that like a fibre optic or something so that the strobe flashes everytime? Can we adjust our 310's to flash everytime? either post here or pm me.
thanks,
Les

It is an optic wire and it will ensure that the strobe goes off each time.
I have the same camera but with the external strobe (no wire). It's pretty good about going off each time. Only had a no go once. Strange indeed.
My biggest problem is backscatter and that intense greenish hue. I think that the 3x macro lens will help that though.
 
Thanks for the input. We are hoping to get to the water soon. If I get any money for Christmas I may buy the second strobe. Am I hearing everyone say keep the 3x lense on all time to help with the back scatter and green hue. Should I change only if I have a subject willing to pose? When should I use the wide angle and will that help the back scatter and green?
 
The backscatter is happening because of the light from the flash hitting it. Move your flash more to the side, rather than directly above your camera for less backscatter. The 3X lens can be used with objects that are atleast 2 foot away. Since the strobe can really only reach about 6-8 feet, you can use the 3X for shots 2-8 foot away with good color. I guess you could use it on longer shots but they are going to be blue without the flash reaching the objects. In terms of getting shots that are good enough to enlarge, you can do it with this camera. If you crop your image much it will pixilate above about a 8X10. We cropped and enlarged an image from our 5 megapixel camera to a 18X24 and it looks fabulous.
 
i also have the dc310 with all the lenses. my close-ups turn out really well, though sometimes i need to cover the strobe partially with my hand in order to get the right amount of exposure. you can also toggle the flash mode underwater, but i generally prefer to keep it in the normal mode and adjust it by covering the flash because that gives you better control. position the strobe so that the strobe's flash detector is more or less under the flash deflector and twist the head so that it points to your subject. also, carry a bunch of freshly charged high mah nimh rechargeables (energizer 2500, or higher from reputable brands). if possible I prefer to change batteries between dives, but they've always lasted fine for at least 2 dives in a row.
 
I have the dc310 with ALL the lenses, and was taught early on good strobe positioning.
Have taken some decent shots. I also have since got a strobe diffuser.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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