Scubapro vs Aspek with Nitrox?

[Sylvie]

Hi

I have yet another question for you Apeks experts out there. I was at a local dive shop last Saturday and they recommend buying the Apex ATX/CTX 20 and getting it adjusted for cold water. If I remember correctly this costs aprox CHF 85 (USD 62). The dive shop says since the ATX 20 40 50 models are basically the same I could one could also add the adjustment knob on the ATX 40 and ATX 20 models and convert them into a ATX 50 model. This costs aproximately CHF 65 (USD 47). Or was the price the other way around? The sales person wasn’t exactly sure himself and would have had to check with his boss who wasn’t there. In any case, the basic recommendation was to get a cheaper Apex and have the dive shop built it up, because in the end you have the same product at a cheaper price. :mean:

Has anyone heard this sales tactic before? Is it recommendable? Wouldn’t it affect the warranty?

On the positive side I found the fins I wanted on sale – Mares Volo - to use with booties. I already have a pair of good warm water fins to use without booties, so now have both options open again.

I’m contemplating doing to another dive shop on Saturday, which definitely has better prices, but I'm not sure if it’s a really wise idea. My next report is due in less than a week and can’t afford to procrastinate any longer. However, looking into dive equipment and holiday info is much more fun.

Ciao for now

Sylvie

 

[RichLockyer]

Sylvie once bubbled...
buying the Apex ATX/CTX 20 and getting it adjusted for cold water. If I remember correctly this costs aprox CHF 85 (USD 62). The dive shop says since the ATX 20 40 50 models are basically the same I could one could also add the adjustment knob on the ATX 40 and ATX 20 models and convert them into a ATX 50

The T20 1st stage cannot be upgraded to the DS4/DST model... the bodies are different, so you cannot get the dry-sealed diaphragm feature of the ATX40 series.

As far as the 2nd stage, the difference between the 20 and 40 is an aluminum sleeve over the inlet port that helps to transfer heat from the water to the air going into the 2nd. Takes 2 seconds to change that part. The other difference is the adjusting knob, and though it requires slightly more disassembly of the reg, it's not hard to do. I upgraded four regs in less than 1/2 hour, but you might be better off having the shop do the work.

I would suspect that it might cause a problem with the warranty... at least the FACTORY warranty, but if your shop does the work and you go to them for warranty service, there should be no problems.

 

[Sylvie]

Hi Rich

Sorry, I was referring to the 2nd stage. I've seen many offers for ATX 100, ATX 50 & ATX 40 with the ATX 20 octopus and was concern about using an octopus that is developed for warm water in cold water. I should have made myself clearer.

I was told about the aluminium sleeve over the inlet port as you described. It’s good to get confirmation about that as well as the adjusting knob, and to hear that it’s a simple procedure.

I definitely wouldn’t want to do any of it myself, as it will be my first reg. I simply don't feel comfortable playing around with equipment that I don't know, particularly something that my life or my buddy's life depends on.

I also suspect that the factory warranty won’t be valid if someone changes with the reg. The thing is I tend not to trust Swiss store warranties. Generally speaking they are notoriously bad and it’s very difficult to claim anything on warranty here. Customer service is just not part of the culture - albeit that is progressively changing for the better.

Cheers

Sylvie

 

[Warren_L]

I dive with a SP MK25/S600 and have never had free flow problems, even in water down to around 40 F. There have been reports of people experiencing free flows, but I think a lot has to do with how quickly you use your air. If you consume air at a faster rate, you do run a higher risk of freezing up the first stage, as the more air that is decompressed from the cylinder through the first stage, the more energy (heat) is sucked up from the surrounding water. Since this heat comes from the water, if there is insufficient time or flow of water through the first stage, this will also increase the risk of freeze ups.

So, while one person may experience a freeze up, another person may have no problems under the same conditions.

If you hold open your purge button on the second stage long enough, the first stage will probably eventually freeze up, even in 70 F degree water.

 

[DeepScuba]

Maybe it's been mentioned before, but what about the moisture content of the air?

It seems to me, that it is very weird that those of us in Canada (Not scientific, but a trend I do see) that dive regularly in cold water with M20/25's and G250's S600's etc seem to never have a problem, where-as others do? And it seems to be US "Mid-Temps".

Just an observation.

 

[Sylvie]

Hi Guys

I just wanted to let you know that I finally completed the last of my diving equipment purchases this past weekend at a boat show in Friedrickshafen on the German side of Lake Constance. I visited all dive stands and enquired about both Apex and ScubaPro. In the end I purchased the Apeks ATX 40 with ATX 40 octopus regulator from stand of my regular German dive shop where I bought my BCD. The salesperson improved his previous offer and gave me an expo rebate. Since I’m a student on a budget, a large deciding factor between Apeks and ScubaPro was the price. ScubaPro is simply less affordable. (I preferred Scubapro MK 25/S600 for inhaling, but the Apex for exhaling. Moreover, I have the general impression I get from this board and dive shop owners that both are excellent regs, but Apex has a slightly better reputation for very cold alpine lakes). After six weeks of searching, the only better deals than the one I obtained were on e-bay, but I was out bid at the last minute every time, even when I put in automatic bid. I became frustrated with this and worried that I might end up leaving for holiday without my own gear. After all buying diving equipment shouldn’t be taking so much time that it becomes a dreaded chore, right? So, off I went in search of deals at the expo. I’m glad I went as it certainly paid off. Not only did I find a great regulator at a great price, I also found myself a fantastic fitting 7mm three piece wet suit (Starsea Sub manufactured by Seac Sub near Trieste Italy) at a very affordable price. I’m actually almost happier about the wet suit because it’s not something I would feel comfortable buying on the net, since I couldn’t find a single comfortable model in the several shops that I visited. This suit isn’t only by far the most comfortable I’ve tried, it’s also the most practical, the cheapest, plus it coincidently matches the rest of my diving equipment. Hurrah!

I’m now a very happy camper, and I am very much looking forward to my first dive with my new equipment. I’ve only tested it above water, which obviously isn’t quite the same. I am pretty sure that I will be pleased with the products when I use them in Egypt next month, or perhaps sooner in Switzerland if the whether permits.

Thanks everybody for your valuable input on this thread. I appreciated it and enjoyed it as it gave me the opportunity to discover the friendly scuba board community.

Sylvie

 

[rubenluengas]

RichLockyer once bubbled...

The T20 1st stage cannot be upgraded to the DS4/DST model... the bodies are different, so you cannot get the dry-sealed diaphragm feature of the ATX40 series.

I have a swiwel turret at-20 and me LDS will sell to me the next week a dry-sealed kit por this 1st. I think that at-20.40.50 are the same 1st stage (except non swiwel).

could you please explain it more.


regards
ruben

 

[savagemyth]

RichLockyer once bubbled...

, buy a 1/2 to 3/8 reducing adapter and then if for some reason you can't find a 1/2" hose, you can use the 3/8.

Don't do this. The adaptors are a sure failure point, they tend to swivel loose on the first stage. This adds an extra O-ring and failure point to your rig. The best thing to do is plug the 1/2" port (buy a plug at your LDS) and use a standard 3/8" hose on one of the other LP ports.

 

[RichLockyer]

savagemyth once bubbled...
Don't do this. The adaptors are a sure failure point, they tend to swivel loose on the first stage. This adds an extra O-ring and failure point to your rig. The best thing to do is plug the 1/2" port (buy a plug at your LDS) and use a standard 3/8" hose on one of the other LP ports.

Works fine for doubles, but you can't always do that... with a drysuit, you need all four ports. With anything other than an air-2 for a backup reg, you need both ports on the right side.

Best option is to use the stock 1/2" hose on the bungeed backup and the long hose on the "rear" port.

Still, I've never had a problem with an adapter.

 

[Sylvie]

Hi Guys

I’ve returned from my vacation three weeks ago, and wanted to say (better late than never) that I absolutely love my APEX regulator. It is just so smoooooth. I tried other regs during the dive holiday ( e.g. Mares, Cressi, Scuba Pro and something else that I already forgotten), but I liked mine by far the most. I didn’t even like the others except for the Scuba Pro (R190 2nd stage), which I also thought was pretty smooth. I am very pleased with my purchase, and don’t regret it one bit. Out of all the diving equipment I’ve own, it’s my favourite.

Now I’ve it’s time for me figure out where I want to use it next. I have the first week of January off, and can perhaps stretch this one week vacation to two weeks, if I bridge with Christmas and New Year’s. Where to go? Where to go? Any suggestions?

Cheers

Sylvie