Scubapro S600 buying advice

[Age]

Losing the rubber trim boot for the LP hose to inlet fitting connection is not a bad idea. When you cover the metal of that fitting with an insulating material like the rubber trim boot, it reduces heat transfer. The orgiinal G250 did not have one and I wish Sp would realize that they could not only save money but improve the regulator design by leaving it off.

It takes some courage to destroy bits of a new USD 800 regulator rig straight out of the box, but thanks to you, I'll find it.
I read your post about hose protectors on another thread and you suggested some were worth keeping. I kind of like the Scubapro ones but I don't think they'll even fit on the fat DIR hoses my instructor supplied, but apart from them, were you thinking of the HP hose?

 

[squidster]

If I were an expert, I wouldn't have started this thread, but I don't think you are correct in suggesting that the MK11 would be a better 1st stage in cold water than the MK 25. At least, judging from the hype in the Scubapro manual.
However, I would agree that the MK11/S295 is a good a reliable system that has served me well for years and I was comfortable taking them down to 40 metres plus. The only problem I had was when trying to keep up with younger fitter divers swimming against a strong current and twice I was left gasping for air. ( Clint Eastwood Said it best when he said "a Man has to know his limatations"It wasn't nice and a potential problem.
Also (please allow me some foolishness) the patina on plastic second stages is just horrible. But my new G250V? Can't wait to scratch it

The g250v would be a great reg,but i am with DA Aquamaster the Diphram MK17 would be a more balance all around reg then the MK25

 

[I_R_DIVER]

Get an Mares abyss and then all your worries will end.

 

[Teamcasa]

I have the MK17 with the S555 - it is a terrific setup.

 

[Age]

Well, I'm sorry to disappoint everyone but I have, in fact, already purchased the Scubapro MK 25 as it came with the G250V as a set. The MK 11 will be a back-up/travel reg when weight is an issue and water temperature not a problem and my trusty, recently serviced S295 will be bungeed around my neck.
Interesting that nobody has said a word about the new MK 19
Age

 

[squidster]

Well, I'm sorry to disappoint everyone but I have, in fact, already purchased the Scubapro MK 25 as it came with the S250G as a set. The MK 11 will be a back-up/travel reg when weight is an issue and water temperature not a problem and my trusty, recently serviced S295 will be bungeed around my neck.
Interesting that nobody has said a word about the new MK 19
Age

The Mk 19 Is not offered in the US,Besides its just a MK11,MK17 with a turet
I have never heard of a S250G , i have heard of a G250 or G250 Vintage.
Is that something different?

 

[Age]

You know, I kinda like the swivel turret on the MK25 so I guess the MK19 will be popular
BTW the typo has been corrected

 

[DA Aquamaster]

It takes some courage to destroy bits of a new USD 800 regulator rig straight out of the box, but thanks to you, I'll find it.
I read your post about hose protectors on another thread and you suggested some were worth keeping. I kind of like the Scubapro ones but I don't think they'll even fit on the fat DIR hoses my instructor supplied, but apart from them, were you thinking of the HP hose?

No need to destroy ant of the hose protecgtors or hose mounted trim boots - they should slide right off and if not, a soak in hot water will allow them to stretch enough to slide off the hose.

Hose protectors on the fisrt stage end of the hoses tend to insulate the metal fittings and will reduce heat transfer at the first stage, so for cold water diving, pulling them back 3'4" to clear the metal portion of the fitting can make a frist stage a bit more freeze resistant. The boot on the second stage end of the LP hose makes no difference on many second stages (those with a plastic air barrel) but on second stages with a metal inlet fitting or air barrel, removing it can improve heat transfer.

Squidster is I think probably right about the Mk 11 being a better cold water reg than the MK 25. The Mk 16 was similar in terms of being unsealed but having a very open ambient chamber with lots of water flow and heat transfer. The Mk 25 has more air flow, potentially mor adibatic cooling and a more enclosed ambient chamber so it tends to get in trouble in water colder than 40-45 degres F.

 

[Age]

No need to destroy ant of the hose protecgtors or hose mounted trim boots - they should slide right off and if not, a soak in hot water will allow them to stretch enough to slide off the hose.

Hose protectors on the fisrt stage end of the hoses tend to insulate the metal fittings and will reduce heat transfer at the first stage, so for cold water diving, pulling them back 3'4" to clear the metal portion of the fitting can make a frist stage a bit more freeze resistant. The boot on the second stage end of the LP hose makes no difference on many second stages (those with a plastic air barrel) but on second stages with a metal inlet fitting or air barrel, removing it can improve heat transfer.

Squidster is I think probably right about the Mk 11 being a better cold water reg than the MK 25. The Mk 16 was similar in terms of being unsealed but having a very open ambient chamber with lots of water flow and heat transfer. The Mk 25 has more air flow, potentially mor adibatic cooling and a more enclosed ambient chamber so it tends to get in trouble in water colder than 40-45 degres F.

That's interesting and proves that you shouldn't believe all you read. The Scubapro user instruction guide even goes to the trouble to show a diagram of the (patent pending) Antifreeze cap on the MK25. On the next page the MK17 and MK11 are explained together with talk of the dry chamber on the MK17 achieving "the best cold water performance" and the only difference between the two being that the MK11 doesn't have one, giving the impression that it can't handle cold water that well.

This all may not be a moot point as, thanks to this forum, I've been invited by another diver to join him diving in the winter once I've got a dry suit. Not sure how cold it gets in waters off Izu Japan, but if is colder than 40ºF I'll take the MK11

 

[squidster]

That's interesting and proves that you shouldn't believe all you read. The Scubapro user instruction guide even goes to the trouble to show a diagram of the (patent pending) Antifreeze cap on the MK25. On the next page the MK17 and MK11 are explained together with talk of the dry chamber on the MK17 achieving "the best cold water performance" and the only difference between the two being that the MK11 doesn't have one, giving the impression that it can't handle cold water that well.

This all may not be a moot point as, thanks to this forum, I've been invited by another diver to join him diving in the winter once I've got a dry suit. Not sure how cold it gets in waters off Izu Japan, but if is colder than 40ºF I'll take the MK11

The MK11 is a Diaphram reg,the Diaphram reg seals the working parts.
But the Piston reg some of the Moving parts are exposed to water.
Plus the MK25 flow rate is alot higher then the MK11.
The MK25 will breath better at depths,but will tend to freeze in real cold water.
I do not know why ScubaPro Will not develop a sealed piston Reg.
if they did i would go back to a Piston Reg.