Scubapro MK25UL or Titanium?

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ozziworld

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I'm a Fish!
I was wondering if there is a difference between the MK25UL and MK25T or are they the same thing? I would guess that perhaps the UL is aluminum? My LDS offered me 'old stock" New in Box MK25 / G500 for US$400. Seems like a good deal as I like the light weight. I did not notice if the box indicated UL or T but the color of the first stage was black so I think it might be UL.

I currently have a 1988 MK10/G250 and it works perfectly. Am I being impulsive? Perhaps there won't be any real performance benefits and just the light weight advantage. Would appreciate some input and advise if I should "upgrade".
 
If you're thinking you'll get noticably better breathing, you'll probably be disappointed. The G500 is a very nice 2nd stage, but so is the G250. I'm sure it's not the titanium 1st stage at that price, and personally I know nothing about the specifics of the UL. Since I dive with weight on my back, the UL 1st stage would be a disadvantage. $400 is reasonable but hardly cheap.
 
I was wondering if there is a difference between the MK25UL and MK25T or are they the same thing? I would guess that perhaps the UL is aluminum? My LDS offered me 'old stock" New in Box MK25 / G500 for US$400. Seems like a good deal as I like the light weight. I did not notice if the box indicated UL or T but the color of the first stage was black so I think it might be UL.

I currently have a 1988 MK10/G250 and it works perfectly. Am I being impulsive? Perhaps there won't be any real performance benefits and just the light weight advantage. Would appreciate some input and advise if I should "upgrade".

First Stage Regulators constructed of titanium resist salt water corrosion but according to the ScubaPro Rep they should not be used for Nitrox mixtures in excess of 40 percent. When I purchased my S600 with MK25 First Stage they were retailing for 1400.00. I did pay retail because as a Dive Shop employee I received a Key Man package from the Scubapro as a Dive shop Instructor. Probably would not pay retail for the Ti version unless I had more money than I have now. The G250 and S600 are constructed using the same internal parts but the S600 is neutrally buoyant in water.

Hope this helps
 
There was a Mk 20 UL that was aluminum (anodized with a black finish).

There was also a Mk 25 SA that was made from both stainless steel and aluminum.

There is also the Mk 25 T that is made from titanium.

The Mk 20UL was a study in the effects of saltwater on aluminum when combined with the dissimilar metals used in hose connections, etc. It also had different torque values throughout and in general was not overly durable. Very light, but not Sp's best idea by a long shot.

The Mk 25 SA was an attempt to create a Mk 25 version of the Mk 20 UL with the high stress/high corrosion areas beefed up with stainless steel. I am not sure what part of "dissimilar metal" they did not understand.

The Mk 25T is great and is very lightweight, but is not the best metal for use with nitrox and the whole reg costs about twice what any intelligent diver would pay for one. Nearly all the ones I have serviced are owned by people who are trying to flaunt their wealth. One diver even managed to maintain the price tag intact at the first annual service. It takes all kinds to make a world.

Personally, if I were buying a new reg, I'd go with the regular Mk 25 and not worry about it. If weight is an issue I'd go with the Mk 11. If I needed a cold water reg, I'd go with the Mk 17.

That said, the Mk 20 UL was not horrible, you just have to rinse it very carefully, dry it well, use the plastic isolators on the hose connections and lubricate the threads - and be very careful not to over torque anything. The US made black purge covered G500 was an excellent reg, but some techs have issues tuning them properly (requires a special tool and an additional step in the process.) The later Italian made grey purge covered G500's were not as stellar a performer for reasons I have never fully figured out, but they can also be upgraded to S600 status where they breathe almost as well as the older G500's.
 
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DA...what a wealth of info you have; but, Ozzieworld, yes, you are being impulsive.....spend that $400 on something you need. Your MK 10 G250 will last a long time given good care
and you will be hard pressed to find a better breathing regulator.

couv
 
thank you all. Pretty much decided against it. I practically had my credit card out and I decided to post this thread. Am so glad I did.

Yeah, my G250 and MK 10 work great and have been so very reliable and trrouble free since I bought them 20 years ago. Actually have never even considered replacing them. I just felt maybe should not let a good deal get away.

Well, I guess it isn't really a good dealy if I never needed them anyway. Will use the $400 towarsd a dive trip instead.

Again thanks to everyone for their input
 
I would agree that the MK10/G250 is your best alternative. You will not achieve any improvement with the any other choice. Enjoy it, you have one of the best.
 
Personally, if I were buying a new reg, I'd go with the regular Mk 25 and not worry about it. If weight is an issue I'd go with the Mk 11. If I needed a cold water reg, I'd go with the Mk 17.

What's considered cold water?

Also, does anyone know the difference between the G250V and the G250HP? Is the V the same as the old G250 design?
 
thank you all. Pretty much decided against it. I practically had my credit card out and I decided to post this thread. Am so glad I did.

Yeah, my G250 and MK 10 work great and have been so very reliable and trrouble free since I bought them 20 years ago. Actually have never even considered replacing them. I just felt maybe should not let a good deal get away.

Well, I guess it isn't really a good dealy if I never needed them anyway. Will use the $400 towarsd a dive trip instead.

Again thanks to everyone for their input

......you should do the patriotic thing, spend the $400, and help stimulate the economy ! Surely you at least need a back-up reg in your save a dive-trip bag ? :D
 

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