Scubapro Mk11 DIN adapter install

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

WreckWriter

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Messages
3,493
Reaction score
50
Location
Central Florida
# of dives
2500 - 4999
Got one in the mail, no install instructions. My nearest Scubapro dealer is 50 miles away. Anyone willing to give me a quick installation walk through?

I was Scubapro certified about 35 years ago, before DIN became common in the US.

Thanks
Tom
 
You’ll need a 4 and 6mm Allen keys (preferably socket/wrenches as you’ll need to apply some good torque); the 6mm one needs to be long enough (5cm+)

The DIN retainer is 2 main parts, the main retainer that attaches to the body (along with the wheel and saddle) uses the 6mm hex to attach @ 30Nm (266ft.pound?)
This part has an oring at the base (contact to main body), an oring at the wheel/saddle interface

The filter retainer sits concentric to it, and has the last oring, the big one that interface to the tank
You need 4-5Nm (30 freedom units) on the 4mm to tighten it correctly

You disassemble the yoke (as you do normally), install the saddle+wheel+main retainer and torque to 30Nm; then the filter (cone base inwards with spring on top) and the filter retainer

All done
 
You’ll need a 4 and 6mm Allen keys (preferably socket/wrenches as you’ll need some good torque); the 6mm one needs to be long enough (5cm+)

The DIN retainer is 2 main parts, the main retainer that attaches to the body (along with the wheel and saddle) uses the 6mm hex to attach @ 30Nm (266ft.pound?)
This part has an oring at the base (contact to main body), an oring at the wheel/saddle interface

The filter retainer sits concentric to it, and has the last oring, the big one that interface to the tank
You need 4-5Nm (30 freedom units) on the 4mm to tighten it correctly

You disassemble the yoke (as you do normally), install the saddle+wheel+main retainer and torque to 30Nm; then the filter (cone base inwards with spring on too) and the filter retainer

All done
Thank you.
 
If you want ft lbs or in lbs here you go:

IMG_6392.JPG
 
oh so I listed the in. pound ones - sorry I had no clue what was the exact unit listed in the schematics (except the Nm part)

With the main retainer I’d stick to the lower range (30Nm/22ftLbs), I even do 27Nm normally as not to risk over torquing and for easier disassembly after salty seasons — had to fight too many a stuck DIN retainer
(Also accounting for special case of MK20s which had some risk of cracking at higher torque — that’s most of what I rebuild)
this is my personal flavor, please choose to try it/ignore it at your own risk 😅
 
I probably should have noted that the first stage is a MK11 EVO. The DIN kit I have is part number 10045030 . Is this the right kit for this first stage?

If so, should I lube the o-rings before assembly, I would think yes.

If I have the right parts, I have all the tools needed for this job on hand.
 
I probably should have noted that the first stage is a MK11 EVO. The DIN kit I have is part number 10045030 . Is this the right kit for this first stage?

If so, should I lube the o-rings before assembly, I would think yes.

If I have the right parts, I have all the tools needed for this job on hand.
My general assumption is this is the “universal din” kit that SP makes now; they are compatible with all SP regs all the way back to the mk10 and mk2 (that excludes only the mk5 and other rarities like the mk7,3..)
It’ll fit the mk11Evo just the same

I assume it also comes partially “pre assembled”
The middle oring that sits at the saddle/wheel would already be installed, locking the wheel onto the retainer
I don’t think this one need lubing as it’s main function is the wheel locking — and taking it out is slightly annoying, so I’d skip it, just dabbing some lube with the edge of a pick while installed
(For cleaning I have to uninstall it)

The bottom oring (2-011) is easy to access just like the DIN tank oring (2-111), a tiny dab of cristolube on both before reinstalling them and your good for 300bar

This is the partially assembled section I mean:
DADEDE30-7811-4171-9AF2-334F05A4A6E9.jpeg

D7ED084A-1D14-4672-874C-1FBD8140ECAD.jpeg

Here’s is how it looks like with the filter retainer partially installed and the saddle oring backed off
45159243-EBF5-4DCF-A28C-ABF7A8387A67.jpeg
AA2D9539-DA29-45F1-ABF6-8F204EFB31B6.jpeg



O, you’ll have the newer square looking wheel
And the 100400.124&126 are the 2 parts pf the whole assembly you got
 
Back
Top Bottom