Scubapro mark V

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Tribolube 71 will also work well here. To clean the old grease off you can also use Tribolube KO2, a solvent specifically for PFPE greases.



Wow, you guys are the real thing!

I've got my weekend set aside.

I'm assuming christolube is the recommended lube?

Thanks,

Ken

I'll have pictures of this project later this weekend.
 
Where do you get Tribolubes?

N
 
Where do you get Tribolubes?

N

From Tribbles? :)

(Sorry, couldn't resist)

Think it is in his "Manufacturers" profile there N.
 
Where do I get tribbles?

Beam me up Scotty.

N
 
Wow, you guys are the real thing!

I've got my weekend set aside.

I'm assuming christolube is the recommended lube?

Thanks,

Ken

I'll have pictures of this project later this weekend.

Racerken,

I have the same regulator set and will be very interested in your progress and especially in any pictures of this project you would like to share.
 
If I remember right, I think the Mark VII honked like a duck, Mark V no honk...
 
OK, here are the pictures of my first and second stage. I'd like to confirm what I think is a Mark V.

'http'://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i110/racerken/P1040657.jpg

'Since I don't have 5 posts, I cannot post a link' If you remove the ' (apostrophe) the link will work.

Questions:

1. The screws that clamp the second stage together are 7/16" x 4-40. One has a nearly stripped head so I ordered one replacement screw from mcmaster carr. the reference head diameter on the screw they sent me was .183". This was too large. Does anyone know of a source for narrow head screws?

2. The first stage seems to be in pretty good shape but I would like to take it apart to clean as well. Is this recommended or completely a ridiculous thought. Given a spanner wrench, the disassembly should not be complex unless the internal spring took off.

Thanks,

Ken
 
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Yes, it is an early Mk V with 2 LP port turret and a single 3/8" HP port.

The second stage is the R109 "Adjustable". It has the current scubapro poppet used in the G200 and R109 and has a newer replacement rubber purge cover. In other words it has had a thorough annual service fairly recently.

It also appears to be in superb shape with no wear or missing chrome in the usual high wear areas.

In short, it is clearly dangerous and should be sent to me immediately for proper disposal. :D

I am guessing the first stage is in equally good shape. I'd test the IP and if it is stable and the needle swing is normal, I'd leave it alone. In general unless you are going to rebuild the reg and change the HP seat, you do not want to take the first stage part. If you do and reuse the old seat, it is possible things will not line up exactly the same and you could end up with an additonal seating groove in the seat and it will then leak at the two points where the new groove crosses the old seating groove.

Removing the swivel cap and the seat retainer is not hard - but it would be worth your time to get a scubapro multiwrench from scubatools.com as it will help ensure you do not scratch the chrome or screw up any of the holes. You also need a brass o-ring pick to remove the hp piston stem o-ring as you DO NOT want to scratch the groove it sits in. You then also need a piston bullet to insert the piston through the new hp piston stem o-ring. You can also get a special tool to insert the new piston stem o-ring. I prefer to do it without the tool as I can do it faster without it using two different brass o-ring picks, but I can't really describe how to do it without the tool. In any event, scubatools.com will have all the tools mentioned above and the cost is not bad as tool costs go.
 
Replacement socket head screws are hard to come by. I have used a dremmel tool to reduce the diameter of the head to fit using brass screws from Home Depot. Repair kits a few years back included replacement socket head screws but the thread was finer than the 4-40 most older metals seem to use.

I have also used the dremmel tool to cut a slot in a damaged socket head screw. It was not particularly pretty as the screws are chrome plated brass but it works fine for keeping the regulator in service. Although that one may be in to good condition for such crude fixes. I've got a couple that are in that league that I have put away for my grandbaby to use in a few more years. Some of the ones I dive with are pretty ugly.
 
There seems to be a common understanding about the dangers of this regulator... It appears that it causes death, destruction, and apparently very difficult to dispose of... Being the death defying guy I am, I'm going to ride this out.

So here is my shopping list:

The Airspeed Press:
SCUBA REGULATOR MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR $50

The Scubatools:
Scubapro Air 2/ Inflator O'ring Bullet Kit
SKU: 20-142-140 $9.50

Scubapro Multi-Tool, Brass Chrome
SKU: 20-100-100 $35.00

Scubapro Mk5/Mk10 O'ring Tool Kit
SKU: 20-275-400 $16.50

O'ring Pick Set (2), Soft Brass
SKU: 10-102-100 $11.00

From Piranha:
Tribolube 71 2oz Tube at $ 26.99

So I've already lost some parts... I think my wife vacuumed up the exhaust diaphragm (perhaps terminology is wrong), the one that is 1" in diameter. I also have some chrome lifted from the stem of the dump valve so I'm considering replacing this since the added friction could damage the rubber seat with further use.

Where do you buy this stuff online? Or, do you have to go to a dive shop?

BTW, I think I'm transitioning over to the DIY group.

Thanks,

Ken
 
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https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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