Scuba regulator service

[LakeCountyDiver]

I own 2 sets of MK10/G250 Scubapro. I was wondering are there many different service kits for each stage? Some I see are $12 and others are $48. What gets serviced when you send them in? Are corners cut to make money?

Is there a way I can learn to service my own gear? Do they have classes?

Also I have 3 G250 all look different. One says G250 Graphite on it the others just say G250. not V or HP, did they just change the purge button every year?

Thank You guys very much

 

[Zung]

I learned to service my Mk5/Mk10/Mk20/G250 by searching and reading the DIY forum. There's a gold mine of informations in there and I can't thank the resident gurus enough for it. Now I can buy used gears for real cheap and make them work at least as well as brand new gears.

The service kits should cost about 10$ for the second stage and 20$ for the first stage. But their sale is very restricted in the US, so some guys try to make a big fat margin selling them on the grey market. There are 3rd parties parts that work, again, search the DIY forum, key words: mk10, g250, seat, o-rings, etc...

A good site for dating your reg is the Scubapro Museum. SP change the cosmetics every few years, but the basic principle is the same.

 

[tfsails]

You have to determine whether your Mk-10 is a basic Mk-10 or a Mk-10 plus. They take different kits. I think, but am not sure, that the G250s are all serviced by one kit regardless of model. First stage kits are usually more expensive than second stage kits. Most manufacturers are reluctant to sell their kits to individuals. You can thank ambulance-chasing lawyers for that.

It's not hard to service regs if you have the proper training and some special tools. It's not rocket science, but the consequences can be dire if you screw one up. I'm not saying they WILL be dire, but the potential is there. I know when I turn out a customer's reg I ask myself if I would dive that reg. If I can't say "yes", then I won't turn it out. There are two books out on reg repair. One is "Regulator Savvy" by Pete Wolfinger, and is available at Scubatools.com. I don't remember the name of the other one. Other people have recommended both books; I own only one. I have the advantage of working in the service dep't. of a LDS, so I opted for Wolfinger's book which is absolutely excellent but more attuned to the professional. If you're even halfway mechanically inclined, you'll do just fine with Wolfinger's book and won't need the other one.

 

[Zung]

The 2nd one is Vance Harlow's SCUBA REGULATOR MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR . I'd recommend it as a first book, as Pete's goes deeper but leave out some of the basics.

I confirm that the Balanced Adjustable (109) and all of the G250's use the same kit, which is nothing but a seat and a few o-rings.

The MK10 has a polished chrome seat retainer (at the bottom of the reg) and uses the same seat as the MK5; the MK10Plus has a satin seat retainer and uses the same seat as the MK20/25.

 

[Couv]

Congratulate yourself on owning the "good" G250s. I.e. the ones with less monkey motion. Hopefully, you have the "good" MK 10s too- non Plus models.

Servicing your own regulator:

As stated above, the first thing is to start off with a service manual or two. Both service manuals usually discussed here are great; Vance Harlow's "SCUBA Regulator Maintenance and Repair"
http://www.airspeedpress.com/newregbook.html

and the Scuba Tools book, "Regulator Savvy" http://www.scubatools.com are well worth the money. I own both and recommend getting one of each; but if you're dead set on getting only one, then Vance's is a little more suitable for the DIY guy while the ScubaTools book is more suitable for the shop worker. ScubaTools has some pretty handy tools too, so if you do order from there, pay a few extra bucks and get the bullets, spanners, and regulator specific tools that you'll need with your first order and save on shipping. Get a few old regulators like the ones you'll be servicing from eBay or Craig's list and practice. After just one or two seasons of servicing your own gear, you'll have recovered your investment. While you're waiting for your books to come in, page through a few of the manuals found here:

Scuba diving Manuals - Service Manuals - Regulator, Computer, Owners Manuals

Here are a few websites with tons of free regulator specific manuals:

Regulator manuals http://www.juhahaanpera.com/regulatormanual.htm

http://www.frogkick.dk/manuals/

http://www.atlantisdiveclub.com/mainmovies/gb_manuals.html

Good luck,

Couv

 

[Zung]

Don't feel bad if you have the MK10Plus: I have 2 of them, so they must be good, right?

While they're not as snappy as the straight MK10, SP says the MK10+/20/25 seats are good for over 1 million cycles, and that's over 800 dives or 10 to 20 years! awap reported a case with nearly 200 dives here.

 

[redacted]

. Most manufacturers are reluctant to sell their kits to individuals. You can thank ambulance-chasing lawyers for that..

They would like us to believe that it is liability concerns. It is not. It is the manufacturers way of supporting their dealers by forcing diver to be dependent on shop techs for service. Then, recommending (requiring) annual service (excessive in most cases) they are further supporting the shop's business. It is economics. You have $$ and they want it and they think they have found a way to get it.

 

[LakeCountyDiver]

I have the Mk 10 not the PLUS. So which one do you think is better ZUNG

 

[redacted]

I have the Mk 10 not the PLUS. So which one do you think is better ZUNG

According to Scubapro, they both need annual servicing so maybe it does not matter. The Mk10+ seat should have a longer life so long as it and the piston interface are kept clean. Both are well in excess of the 1 year service interval.

 

[halocline]

I have the Mk 10 not the PLUS. So which one do you think is better ZUNG

You're probably better off with the MK10, all things considered.

Here's what servicing of your MK10/G250 is supposed to include:

Complete dissassembly and careful cleaning of both stages. Close, careful inspection of all parts. IMO, this means checking the piston edge and the 2nd stage orifice edge with a magnifying glass; I use a jeweler's loupe. It's also important to check the 2nd stage diaphragm for any pinholes.

Replacement of both seats and all dynamic o-rings. Dynamic o-rings are ones that move or seal moving parts in use. This includes both the HP and LP piston o-rings, and the balance chamber o-rings on the 2nd stage. On the MK10, there's also a plastic crush seal that seals the HP seat; that should be replaced. As a rule, I usually replace all the o-rings when I service a reg I've bought for the first time, and then when I service it again just the dynamic o-rings and those subjected to HP, like the one on the HP seat carrier and the yoke bolt. But that's probably not necessary.

Reassembly, tuning, and testing. This includes setting the IP correctly and adjusting the 2nd stage cracking effort, and checking the 2nd stage for any vacuum leaks.

The MK10 kit includes 3 HP seats, each of which yields a different IP, both piston o-rings, the HP seat seal, and the filter and clip to hold it in. The older G250 kits had a new poppet w/seat, balance chamber, orifice o-ring (I think), cracking effort adjuster o-ring, and a hose o-ring. I might be forgetting something. The newer G250 kits have no poppet, just a new seat and balance chamber o-rings, plus a few extra o-rings for the G250hp and I believe S600.

The retail price for the kits (last time I checked) was around $25 for the MK5/10 and $20 for the G250. I don't buy them any more, I have a good stash of seats, so I just get o-rings from an o-ring supplier.

If the G250 has not been serviced in several years, it's probably worth getting a new spring ($3) and balance chamber(maybe $5). No real reason, but I've seen those springs wear out and it becomes much more difficult to get a stable cracking effort. The plastic balance chambers shouldn't wear out, but it is a cheap plastic part that is dynamic in nature and has to hold some pressure, and it's only a few bucks. Shame on SP for taking that and the plastic poppet out of the kit while simultaneously raising the price.